Router bits ?

[Al Willits]

Just wondering, is there a basic set/list of router bits I/anybody who's just getting into wood working should have?

Understanding that money is an object here....

I'm have already a few round over bits, couple of different sized straight bits, flush trim, 1/4" dado, and whatever Woodcraft had on sale for $5 a piece.
I'm thinking of adding a raised panel set and maybe whatever it is to make doors out of maybe, but anything else the basic furniture maker might need/want??

Once again...tia

Al

[Mark Rios]

Try looking here:

www.holbren.com

[Lee Schierer]

One bit of caution. When it comes to router bits you generally get what you pay for. All router bits are not created equal. Stick with the name brands like Frued, Amana, CMT the less expensive bits will not last and will not equal the performance out of the box of the better quality bits. Buy carbide bits as they also last longer. I've never been disappointed with the sharpness or quality of cut from any Freud bit. I can't say that of the other bits I have purchased, such as craftsman, woodtek and viper.

[scott spencer]

The most common profiles are roundovers, straights, rabbet, chamfers, coves, and ogees....most of which can be found in Whiteside's basic 7-pc set (Holbren has it for $77 delivered *). A raised panel set is a good investment if you plan to make some raised panel doors. Buy molding bits and other profiles as you need them.

[Alex Berkovsky]

...I'm thinking of adding a raised panel set...
If you want to get a raised panel set, Holbren has one on sale (http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=118&cat=0&page=1) now. Free shipping is always a bonus.

[Chris Padilla]

I buy router bits as I need them but it is good to learn what is out there as you find needs and special applications.

I only use 1/2" shank (if available) CMT brand router bits. Check them out at http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/ to see the variety available.

Occasionally, I do buy kits like panel raisers or bits for my Incra fence system (various straight and dovetail bits).

[Michael Em]

Hi Al,

I'm a total newbie too and had the same question. :) While I can't answer your question, I would like to add this. There seem to be a lot of available sets from a lot of different companies.

I have the www.MLCSwoodworking.com catalog and it seems to be nothing but router bits. They make their own MSCS, and then they also offer bits from www.katanabits.com. I will say that the diagrams and drawings in the MLCS catalog are very helpful for learning about all the different bits out there.

Others router bits I found are from these companies.

www.hartvilletool.com
And they also sell.... www.whitesiderouterbits.com

There is also bits available from www.Grizzly.com

Also found bits offered from these companies as well (some mentioned above)

www.routerbitsonline.com (Andres Toolworks)
www.infinitytools.com
www.sussexsawandtool.com
www.freudrouterbits.com
www.amanatool.com
www.holbren.com
www.cmtusa.com

Thanks,
Michael

[pat warner]

"but anything else the basic furniture maker might need/want?? "

Maybe.
This set (http://patwarner.com/starter_bits.html)derived from my experience as a furniture/jig&/fixture maker.
Link includes some application.

[Kent Fitzgerald]

Al, the most recent Fine Woodworking has an article on exactly this topic.

[Charles Wilson]

I bought a basic set from Hartville tool that were Whiteside bits. I have used them and have been happy with them. Plus they are made in the USA.

Regards,

Chuck

[Doug Jones]

Try looking here:

www.holbren.com
These are the only bits I have and highly recommend them. If you decide to buy from Holbren PM me, I may be able to help with the cost thing a bit.

[Al Willits]

Thanks all, gotta say there's more than enough information to confuse me... :)

Alex, thanks for the info on that raised panel set, I realize its not gonna be in the caliber of a $160 or so set from whiteside/freud/? but at $30 on sale, it'll make a good learning set...plus I can afford it now.. :)

I do like the option of buying basic bits from like Holbren at cheaper prices and then using them, if they turn out to be ones I use a lot, when they wears out replace it with a higher end cutter.

I do have another question...Ogee?
I'm betting its not what you say when the jointer blade takes the end off your finger???

Thanks for the help, I have a pretty good idea of what to get now, and who to get it from..

Al

[Jim Becker]

Aside from having some of the basics...which you appear to have...I'm a believer in acquiring router cutters "when you need them", for the most part. There have been times when I needed a certain profile in a certain size and I made the conscious decision to buy a 3 or 4 pc. "set" of multiple sizes for that profile if the deal was good, but in general, most of my bits were purchased individually. I did buy a raised panel set (Freud 2+2) in the basic, flat bevel "Shaker" style since that's about the only profile I use outside of flat panels. It came with a few other "door making" bits, but I've never used them...so far.

For cutters I know will be a long-term staple, I buy the best I can afford. For incidental cutters or odd profiles that may be one-time use, I'll buy for a good deal. (Occasionally, I've scarfed up those $5 specials from Woodcraft in that regard)

[Henry Cavanaugh]

FWW issue # 137 did a test on 17 brands of router bits. Whiiteside doing the best and some totally failing.

[Al Willits]

I can see I'm gonna have to add FWW to my subscription list...:)

Thanks.

Just ordered that on sale, 3 piece raised panel set from holbren, worked out to $25.15 with all the discounts, thinking about $60 list.
May not be carbide but should work to learn on, and see if I (shebeast) likes the design.

Al

[Jim Becker]

FWW issue # 137 did a test on 17 brands of router bits. Whiiteside doing the best and some totally failing.

Please note that there was follow-up on that article in a later issue, although the on brand in question no longer exists in it's original form. (Jesada) The name is around, but it's not the same folks.

[JayStPeter]

Please note that there was follow-up on that article in a later issue, although the on brand in question no longer exists in it's original form. (Jesada) The name is around, but it's not the same folks.

The former owners son started Infinity. They seem to be the same bits in gray instead of white. Unlike the original Jesada, the price point is equal to the other high-end bits. But, like Jesada, they have regular sales. I have been acquiring bits on sale to replace my worn out/abused bits or to add some bits that I've been working around not having.
For "single use" bits, I use Woodline. They are the only inexpensive bits I've been happy with so far.

Jay

[Doug Jones]

Just ordered that on sale, 3 piece raised panel set from holbren, worked out to $25.15 with all the discounts, thinking about $60 list.
May not be carbide but should work to learn on, and see if I (shebeast) likes the design.

Al
The bits you ordered are carbide.
C3 Carbide Thickness = .120"

[Bruce Wrenn]

FWW issue # 137 did a test on 17 brands of router bits. Whiiteside doing the best and some totally failing. And those cheap bits fron MLCS finished in the top five. So much for that "You get what you pay for" theory. I have used MLCS bits for years. At first, I was leary as they were cheaper and had free shipping. I haven't been anything less than satisfied with their bits. Last year, I built a curved desk for local YMCA. I routed about 500" feet of groves for radius (inside and out) using MLCS bit. Stiil have that bit in service.

[Al Willits]

Thanks Doug, I missed that they were carbide, makes it even a better deal..

Al

[Ben Grunow]

I bought a 66 (?) bit kit from MLCS and I have been satisfied so far. Ran 1500' of beaded edge on 3/4" MDF and bit still cuts fine. All have 1/2" shanks and nice box too. Paid $180 for set. Some might never get used but light just as well.

I think that a plywood bit set is important for routing dados for shelves. Also a pattern making bit is good (straight with bearing on top) for following patterns-useful for 1000 things.

[scott spencer]

FWW issue # 137 did a test on 17 brands of router bits. Whiiteside doing the best and some totally failing.

It's important to note that the FWW test was 8 years ago and much has changed since then. Not only have companies come and gone since then, but the technology has changed/improved, and the country of origin has changed in some cases. All variables that can cause results that are significantly different than those that were tested.

Another important considertation is that the bits tested by FWW were all straight bits. While I understand that it would get extremely expensive to test multiple profiles head to head, there is no assurance that a straight bit is representative of an entire line.

While I do think it's possible to get what you pay for, there's no guarantee that you're not just paying more when you pay more. It's a complex and ever changing market.

[Al Willits]

""""""""""""
I think that a plywood bit set is important for routing dados for shelves. Also a pattern making bit is good (straight with bearing on top) for following patterns-useful for 1000 things.
"""""""""""

Straight with bearing on top I have, but a plywood set???
Coulda used that making the shelfs on a small tool holder I made, are they listed as Plywood Bits???

Al

[Ben Grunow]

Al- search "plywood router bit" on toolcrib (amazon.com) website and you will see what I'm talking about. The plywood cheapos are always making it thinner and thinner so if you run one type frequently, measure it before buying but in general they are nicer than making a jig with some slop in it or moving a jig (2 set ups) for routing shelf dados.

[David Tiell]

And those cheap bits fron MLCS finished in the top five. So much for that "You get what you pay for" theory. I have used MLCS bits for years. At first, I was leary as they were cheaper and had free shipping. I haven't been anything less than satisfied with their bits. Last year, I built a curved desk for local YMCA. I routed about 500" feet of groves for radius (inside and out) using MLCS bit. Stiil have that bit in service.I gotta agree with Bruce on MLCS its. Several years ago, we built a 4000+ sqft house. I made all the baseboard for the house on my router table with an MLCS bit. While I can't remember exactly how many linear feet I ran across that profile bit, it was a LOT! Between the baseboard and the window/door trim I made, I went through 1200 bdft of wood! And if I had to make some replacement pieces today, that bit would have no problem cutting more. MLCS bits get a thumbs up from me!

[Frank Fusco]

I read a woodworkers magazine test on router bit a couple years ago. Everything from high price to inexpensive were tested. The lower priced ones did produce some tear-out. But when sharpened generally performed as well as the more expensive. My carbide bits cost about as much per set as individual for the expensive ones. I use a fine diamond file (Ez Lap) on the flats before using the first time. Cut clean. I understand the the carbide may not be the hardest available but if they last only 20 years compared to a lifetime, I'll be OK or spend another $35.00 and buy another set.

[Al Willits]

OK, I see that there are "plywood" bits, just wondering though, are they ground different than the standard bit and why under sized?

And is it mortising or dado'ing when you make a square channels on the vertical pieces to put shelfs in on cabinets and such?

There's a lot more to making saw dust than meets the eye.....:)

Also, Frank says he sharpens his bits before using, are you just taking burrs off???
I can see the newbie here ruining a perfectly good bit with his die grinder....:D

Al

[Jim Becker]

Al, the "plywood bits" are undersized because...plywood is also "undersized". 3/4" plywood is not 3/4" thick. That's the nominal thickness, but the actual thickness is a bit less.

Of course, the problem is that any two sheets of plywood, even from the same manufacturer are not necessarily "exactly" the same thickness... ;) So there will be times when a dado or groove will be a little lose or a little tight. This is one reason that some folks build jigs that "measure" the actually plywood in use and use a narrower cutter and two passes to make said dados and grooves precisely fit the material on-hand.

[Al Willits]

Thanks Jim, so it sounds like you'd be better off buying an undersized bit and making two passes if need be?

Still confused on the mortise/dado thing, amazon lists mortising bits and the picture looks like a dado/groove.

Al

[Ben Grunow]

Al- I think of a mortise as a short rectangular hole that is deeper than it is wide and a dado as a long groove that is relatively shallow in comparison to its width.

Mortising bits (spiral and straight) can be used to route mortises or run dados on ply.

Thats what I "think" anyway.

[Al Willits]

Thanks Ben, sounds good to me, so its gonna be what I think also...:)

Al ...who's so confused lately he'll believe almost anything...:D

[rodney mitchell]

Al, what discounts did you use when you ordered the Holbren set?? Thanks....

Rodney

[glenn bradley]

I've also had no qualms with MLCS bits and their 'triple wing' bits really do leave a nicer edge (limited profiles). Frueds are great of course, Rockler's blue bits are only so-so although I do have quite a few.