What type of hinge are best on MDF door

[Hoang Nguyen]

Hi, I'm new to forum and to woodworking. I am planning to build some cabinets with MDF doors inset in face frame. What door hinge type is best with MDF? Euro, butt or surface mounted? I like the look of the butt hinge, but I'm not sure how well screws will hold in the side of MDF. Euro and surface mounted hinges seems like a better choice for MDF. Euro hinge is adjustable, but the surface mount type is a whole lot easier to install. What do you guys think? The max door size will be around 18" X 24". Thanks.

[Chris Padilla]

Hoang,

Welcome to Sawmill Creek!! We hope you enjoy your stay and learn a lot.

The key with MDF, as you noted, is getting screws to hold in it. There are special screws to use call Confirmat (confirmant?). Go to www.mcfeelys.com (http://www.mcfeelys.com) and find these screws and use them in all your MDF projects. BTW, you'll see that McFeelys really pushes the square-drive screws...fill up your screw bins with these square-drives and don't look back!

Again, welcome! :)

[Hoang Nguyen]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will it a try.

[frank shic]

hoang, are you making the entire door out of mdf? if so, you can use the blum inserta hinges that are available from woodworker's hardware.

[Hoang Nguyen]

hoang, are you making the entire door out of mdf? if so, you can use the blum inserta hinges that are available from woodworker's hardware.

Yes. The door will be entirely MDF. I've been looking at the Amerock Lama hinges also. Though, the inserta hinge is sleeker. I don't have to worry about screws in MDF with these hinges. Which one is considered the better brand? Blum?

I considered nylon spreading dowel, but does not seem convienent as the above options.

[Jim Becker]

The Blum Inserta is what Ikea is supplying these days with their kitchen cabinets...while I normally don't use Euro hinges, I'd use these hinges again in a heart-beat. Really easy installation and with your situation using MDF, just the ticket for screw-less installation in the door. They really hold snug, too.

[Mark Hulette]

I'm not sure what application your MDF doors will have or the size but I'd be a little hesitant using all MDF due to long-term weight/sag issues. Rail/stile set-up with an MDF panel is the preferred method.

After working with MDF, I am impressed with it's heft and ability to take a finish but not it's characteristics when used with screws.

[Phil Phelps]

I'm not sure what application your MDF doors will have or the size but I'd be a little hesitant using all MDF due to long-term weight/sag issues. Rail/stile set-up with an MDF panel is the preferred method.

After working with MDF, I am impressed with it's heft and ability to take a finish but not it's characteristics when used with screws.

...and, cabnet doors take a lot of abuse. The outside edge should be hardwood. And, an inset door with a face frame is difficult. I did my kitchen with inset cabinet doors and Euro hinges. It took three different types of hinges to complete an arduous job. You'll need to do a lot of dry fitting. You'll use a lot of strong language, too :eek:

[Steven Peters]

If you're painting or veneering the door after you build, you add a solid wood edge reinforced with a spline to hold the screws better. You will never get a screw to hold a MDF door well from the side. MDF will just split.

[Hoang Nguyen]

I plan to paint the door and cabinet. Since I am new at this, I wanted to use MDF for cost. I anticipate screwing up a few times, before getting it right. Also, the final product will be painted anyway.

Question: I should mention that I'm doing raise panel doors. Can you glue the MDF panel to MDF rails and stiles? Would this add strength to door? I know you are not suppose to do this with a hardwood door, but there shouldn't be a movement problem with MDF.

So I gather that using a hardwood rails and stiles for butt hinge is a must. Euro hinge can be used with MDF. Has anyone installed both types of hinges inset in face frame? Which method is easier?

[Jim Becker]

Now.....the doors and the drawer fronts are in essence, cheaters. I took a piece of 1/2" MDF....cut it to the full/final size and then took more 1/2" that I had routed (using a cheap bit) an inside edge profile on and simply glued and nailed (using a brad nailer) it on to the flat panels, mitered at the corners.

I used this technique for a number of constructions in my kitchen, although with 1/2" ply as the substrate and 1/4" poplar for the raised areas. I don't consider it "cheating"...it's just another useful technique! And with MDF, there is near zero issue with "movement"...