Is a 32 year old HC air compressor worth . . .

[Rob Diz]

$150. It looks to have a 3 hp motor, 230v, around a 30 gallon horizontal tank. The belt is new, but the motor has got to be original. It comes with an equally old regulator. HC doesn't reference that model number anymore on its website.

The thing was used by a fellow who restores Jaguars, who claims he bought in new and has only used it for hobby purposes, painting 4 cars and various air tools

He recently painted the tank, presumably to get it ready to sell. There was some rust visible on the tank's pressure gauge. The tank was stored in an unheated shed next to his garage.

He says he called HC for the performance quote of 11.4 CFM @40PSI / 9.4 CFM @90PSI.

I'll be using it for HVLP spraying and some nailing work. I have ordered the PC PSH1, so the perfomance, even if far off from the quote, should be plenty.

The price seems high to me given the age and the fact that once the motor goes, it'll cost $100 to replace.

I offered him $100 and was turned down flat.

Am I crazy or is he crazy???

[Ken Deckelman]

I offered him $100 and was turned down flat.

Am I crazy or is he crazy???

I think he Is!:D

[Perry Holbrook]

I would be concerned about a 32 year old pressure vessel that may or may not have been drained properly.

Perry

[Mike Cutler]

He's crazy. That compressor is worth what someone is willing to pay, or the savings to haul it to the dump himself.
I'd actually feel better if it had been in daily service. I'm not worried about the motor, but that tank is long overdue for an inspection/replacement

Not trying to be negative. I work on air systems and compressors on a daily basis. Pass on this one bro'. it ain't worth the potential headaches.

[Ed Blough]

I had a Sear compressor that was about the same age 32 years old, stolen from my garage. I would pay twice that price to have it back.

The new compressors can't hold a candle to some of these older products. I looked for 6 months buying and taking back compressors until I found one I could live with. I was looking for a 110 volt unit in the $250-$500 price range and frankly while there were a lot of options most were far inferior machines to the one that was stolen.

I would fire it up. Let the pressure build up and let it set for a day to see how well it held pressure. If it was tight and I wanted a 220 machine I would jump on it.
Ed

[Rob Diz]

Got an email today.

He'll take the $100.

The question is: Should I take the compressor?

The compressor is no longer hooked up to a line, so I can't quite test to see if it holds a fill. When he replaced the tank, he cut the copper lines and replaced the lines with galvenized steel.

I'm thinking I may show up with a fitting and a ball joint, remove the cut copper line, and set up "quick release" set-up. If the tank it can fill and hold a charge, it would seem that I could have a compressor for about 1/4 the cost of a comparable new compressor.

Some of the posts above have questioned the integrity of the tank. What should I look for to see if there are any problems?

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger. ???

And if I get it, what should I put under the feet to dampen vibration??

[Gary Swart]

They make special pads for the feet. Any real air compressor dealer will have them. I put them under my 60 gal tank 7 or 8 years ago and they really keep the compressor from walking around.

[Mike Cutler]

Got an email today.

He'll take the $100.

The question is: Should I take the compressor?

The compressor is no longer hooked up to a line, so I can't quite test to see if it holds a fill. When he replaced the tank, he cut the copper lines and replaced the lines with galvenized steel.

I'm thinking I may show up with a fitting and a ball joint, remove the cut copper line, and set up "quick release" set-up. If the tank it can fill and hold a charge, it would seem that I could have a compressor for about 1/4 the cost of a comparable new compressor.

Some of the posts above have questioned the integrity of the tank. What should I look for to see if there are any problems?

I'm thinking about pulling the trigger. ???

And if I get it, what should I put under the feet to dampen vibration??

Rob.

One statement here sheds a little different light on the subject. That he replaced the tank.

In your original post, I erroneously thought that the tank was 32 years old, and was suspect of the motive to paint it. There is very little to look for externally on a tank other than rust at the weld seams, or holes. Unfortunately most tank erosion occurs inside of a tank where it is un-noticed. Do you know when the tank was replaced? That's an indication of how long the last tank lasted.

One more thing that bothered me was that the unit appears to have been used very little over the years. It is true that that all compressors collect moisture, even the monsters that I work on that have pre-driers, and after driers can collect moisture in the bottom. Compressors systems that are continually in service seem to have less problems than systems that are idled, and only used infrequently.

The components that usually go on a small compressors are the "soft parts". Any rubber component is suspect, and should be changed out.

Check the compressor unit iself for signs of oil, or an indication of past lubricant leaks to gain an awareness of the compressor condition. If you do purchase the unit turn it over by hand to relubricate all of the internal if it hasn't been run recently.

If you can get it for $100.00 and you don't have to rebuld the compressor, and the motor is good(even if it need to be rebult). It probably is worthwhile.

Get rid of the galvanized metal pipe, and repalce all of the lines with copper. ASTM grade B-66 and above. Don't use the rolls of copper refrigerant tubing at the 'Borg. The tubing OD is just slightly less than the compression fittings are designed for, and the rolling process leaves a "flat spot" that can cause problems. It also is not rated as highly.

I like Gary's idea about the pads for the feet. One more trick is to set the unit on a section of "Stall Mat". this is a heavy rubber pad 4'x6' that weighs about 100lbs, and is an 1" thick. Like the name implies, it is used as the foundation for livestock stalls. It will limit any transmission of vibration to the ground.

If it's working, and running, and the tank was replaced less than 16 years ago. It's probably OK. You just want to leave yourself enough $$$ to rewind the motor, if necessary, replace the soft parts, and re outfit it with drains, valves and the proper tubing,and still have it be a good deal.

Sorry to be so long winded. I work on some very large air systems, and can prattle on all day about them.:rolleyes:

[Al Willits]

You can use type K or L copper and it will work fine, just solder all your connections, better than commpression fittings imho.
For a hundred bucks it sounds like a decent deal, when buying used stuff, sometime ya just gotta take a chance, if the $100 is gonna be to costly if it doesn't work out, I'd say look for a new unit, and the warrt that comes with them.

Not sure why ya wouldn't use galvanized pipe, but black iron pipe works just fine, there was a previous post on what to use for air lines and it seemed to come up with "to each their own"....

Is the compressor rebuildable?
Might make it easier to take a chance on.

You did offer a $100 and now he's accepted that amount.

Either way, good luck.

Al

[Rob Diz]

Wow, this was exactly the type of information that I was looking for. Thanks so much for the advice.

My sense is that the tank is original (manufacturer's plate was still attached). When I say he replaced the tank, he purchased a 7hp 80 gallon unit to use in place of the unit he is trying to sell to me. He went for a larger capacity, which I guess is understandable. We all want to upgrade our tools at somepoint, right?

The owner used it for hobby work - I don't know if he kept the tank full or if he allowed it to be discharged. I would imagine that there were long periods of time when it sat idle.

The motor is original, and it appeared that the compressor had not been rebuilt. He just put on a new belt. He had hooked up the electrical, and the compressor worked, although it could not increase pressure due to the fact that the copper line out had been cut.

When I asked to see where the compressor had been installed, he showed me the area. There was pretty clearly an oil spill on the cement. I gave him the benefit of thinking that it was either from draining the unit or pouring more oil in. Both oil in/out locations are somewhat awkward, but it got me started thinking about the business end of this thing. I didn't ask about the spill. It seems like this is something else to worry about.

I would prefer to spend my time working with my tools rather than rebuilding them. If I could get a few good years of service out of this unit, I would be happy (and I could save around $300 compared to a new Husky/KOBALT comparable unit). At that point, I would know if I needed a bigger unit and would have the time to shop for it.

What are the "soft" parts that I should be looking at to see if they need to be replaced.

I guess the more I think about this, the more this is turning into a gamble, but is it one worth taking or will I be the one who has the heap of metal when the music is over?

[Rob Diz]

I offered $100, he said he couldn't take less than $150, and I walked. He has now said that he would accept $100, if I wanted the tank.

In my book, my offer was rejected, and I could go in lower if I wanted to, but it's not as much about the money for me as the hassle.

I don't want to spend the time hauling it around and setting it up only to have to worry about the tank etc. Three hundred bucks savings is three hundred bucks, but stopping in the middle of a spray job to rebuild anything would be a nightmare. I want to buy quality tools that will work when I need them to work.

It's a old tool, and I just need to come to terms with the fact that it's life expectancy is very short, and that the liklihood is that it won't hold pressure for another 10 years, like a new unit might, then figure out if it's worth the risk to me.

Any additional insights are appreciated. Of course, if I save $300, then I could get a few new tools . . .

[Al Willits]

""""""""
In my book, my offer was rejected, and I could go in lower if I wanted to, but it's not as much about the money for me as the hassle.

""""""

That'll be a gottcha....missed that part, sorry.

But it still boils down to taking a chance, why not look for a less chancy deal or break down and buy a new one and get it over with maybe?

Al

[Rob Diz]

I really don't "need" the compressor for a month or so. I'll be watching to see what used equipment comes on the market, and for sales at the BORG. I'm ready to spend the $ on a new 60 gal unit, but need to wait until I really "need" it to show SWMBO that I tried hard to find a less expensive option.

I also need to pick up a BS, so I will have to work out my timing. . . .:rolleyes:

[Julio Navarro]

why did he paint it, was he trying ot cover something up?

Perhaps a bit of rust?

[Rob Diz]

Dunno why he painted it.

The more I think about it, the more I think I made the right call to walk away.

I'm waiting to see what type of sales pop up for the weekend - who knows, I may have a new unit in the garage by the end of the weekend.

[Al Willits]

Remember, if ya can get it into the garage and she don't see it for a week..."Its always been there and I just hooked it up honey"
OR if that don't work....

But honey, I bought it at a garage sale for two bits on the dollar...it was on SALE....

Or...

Its better to ask for forgiveness than permission...

Al....who's just trying to help..:)