My first table saw, and router.

[Michael Em]

Hey everyone,

I finally bit the bullet and bought my first router, a DW618PC, and ordered my first table a saw, a Grizzly 1023 SLX. That's all I could afford for now. The only other tools I have are a Bosch jigsaw, 12" DW miter saw, a DW Circular Saw and a DW drill.

My first question: Could someone please tell me which books I need to read so that I don't cut off my arm with the table saw? I want to learn how to properly use this tool and safety is my number one priority when I think about woodworking. I have zero prior experience, but damn it all looks like so much fun I want to try.

My second question: Decent book on routers for newbies? I want to learn how to use them and what the heck their capabilities are. I'm guessing I need a table for it? I saw those in the Grizzly catalog.

My third question: How bad do I need one of those Joiners? Those things are expensive too and I probably won't be able to afford one for another few months at least. I was looking at an 8" x 76" from Grizzly but I have no clue if it's good or not or how to use it?

So as you can see, I'm a am total newbie....insert jokes here..... :)

Alternatively, if there are threads that already cover these subjects, then kindly point the way. :D

Thanks for any comments and/or suggestions and I look forward to my first project whatever that may be? I'm not even sure what I can build yet given the small range of tools I have.

Michael

[Greg Koch]

Michael,

Congrats...(becomes official with pic posting!:D )

I'm new to woodworking too and got the books "Table Saw Magic" and "Router Magic". They are really good and worth having. You can get them on Amazon.

Take care, learn lots and enjoy!

Greg

[Michael Em]

Here's a pic of the router. And that would be my ever so curious weim Racer looking on. He will be the official shop quadriped. :D

I can't wait for the table saw to get here!

Michael

[Allen Bookout]

Michael,

Books are good but to me videos are better. No misconceptions when you actually see something being done. For the tablesaw there is an EXCELLENT video named "Mastering Your Table Saw" with Kelly Mehler. It is a Fine Woodworking video and I am sure that a quick Google search will turn it up. I think that I got mine from Woodcraft. It is well worth the money. Do not skip it.

My library has some good woodworking videos. That might be a good place to look.

Happy Woodworking! Allen

[Michael Em]

Thanks guys! I did a search on Amazon and found tons of woodworking books, but of course I'm sure some are better than others.

Greg, are those books both good for beginners?

Allen, I never even thought about the video angle? What a great idea. I can watch tv and actually learn something...haha. I will check and see what videos are available and order that one you have.

Thanks for the wonderful suggestions.

Michael

[Don Baer]

Michael,
To answer your question it realy has to do with the way you work. I have a small jointer that I used for edge jointing. Since I moved recently and had to put my joiner into storage I have been using my Table saw for edge joining. I do have a planer and find that the combination of the table saw and the planer meet my needs. This is not to say that I wouldn' get a joiner but it has moved down on my list of which tools to use next.

[Dave Mapes]

Congrats. You will get a lot of enjoyment out of them.

Do you need a jointer? No not if you have a planner and get a top quality saw blade. I do not have one (never had) and have made furniture, cabinets etc. without one. I know others feel you need one but my advice is get a planner first then if you feel the need for a joiniter then go for it.

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Taunton's FineWoodworking.com has a lot of videos on their site. You probably need to be a paid member to see them but I think the price is right for the amount of info you get.

Plus, you can watch our own Alan Turner make wooden bench dogs!!! Nice job on that, Alan, if you're watching.

EDIT: Oh yeah. Congrats on the new tools!

[Michael Em]

Thanks for all the respnses! good stuff.

Planars seem cheaper than joiners. I like that :)

What the heck is the difference between a 6" and 8" planar? Does a 6" mean I can plain boards that are 12" wide max, by flipping them around to get each half or am I thinking wrong about these? They both serve the same purpose?

Thanks as always. The people on this forum are so helpful. I love this place.

Michael

[Allen Bookout]

I might add that you made two really great picks to start your shop with. You must have done some good research.

Allen

[Michael Em]

I might add that you made two really great picks to start your shop with. You must have done some good research.

Allen
Thanks Allen. I was really hoping that I did select good tools being a newbie, it's tough to drop that kind of cash. But after reading all the stuff on here, I felt fairly confident. I am glad for the SMC approval on my buys and will definitely be asking around before I purchase anything more such as router bits, a router table as it seems I need one of those now and about 20 million other trinkets I'm now drooling over since my Grizzly catalog arrived. :D

I got a copy of Woodworking Magazine and tore out one of those consumer cards and ordered a catalog from every manufacturer that offered one. They should be flooding my mail box by next week or so.

Michael

[Greg Koch]

Michael,

Yes, the books are great for beginners, as well as a reference to keep on your book shelf. Lots of tips, jigs to build/use and things to remember.

BTW, nice supervisor...more pics of Racer too! LOL
Greg

[Kelly C. Hanna]

A 6" planer planes boards up to 6" thick....8 does 8". The width of the planer is usually 12, 12.5, 13, 15, 18...etc. up to 48 or wider and this refers to width capacity.

[Norman Hitt]

Michael, first let me welcome you to "The Creek", and congratulate you on your tool purchases, (which were good choices, along with the others you mentioned already having). Let me suggest that you don't PURCHASE a router table, but build your own as a first project. They are a fun project to build and you will learn a lot while doing it. If you feel that may be beyond your capabilities right now, don't worry, because all you have to do is jump on the forum and you will get plenty of help and guidance from members here.


Don't forget the pics when the "Other new TOY.....aaaaaah......TOOL that is, arrives.:D

PS: You might as well start watching for the Sales on good Clamps, and adding a few every chance you get, because it is well known here, that you can "NEVER HAVE" Too Many Clamps.;) :D

[Brad Schmid]

Michael,

Welcome to the creek! There is no doubt you have come to the right place with all of your questions. One additional thing I might suggest is for you to add your location to your profile. I can virtually gaurantee you there are so many good people here that if you are within range of a fellow creeker they would be glad to give you a shop tour, talk tools, eat BBQ;) and generally mentor you along through the basics. I'll be the first to extend an offer if you happen to be in the Houston area. Good luck, and enjoy!

[scott spencer]

Congrats on a great start to a couple of key tools.

I've found alot of good info in Jim Tolpin's "Table Saw Magic" book, and Pat Warner's router book. I also hear alot of great things about Kelly Mehler's TS book. Videos are great for technique, but I think books make an excellent quick reference for setup, adjustments, tips, and jig ideas.

Good luck, and be sure to train the dog on what you learn....you don't want to have to rename him "Tripod". :eek:

[Jim Becker]

Congratulations on your acquisitions...good choices...and welcome to the 'Creek!

You can live without a jointer for a little while, but it's a very important tool in the long run since it's designed to get lumber flat and straight. Even if you are new to woodworking, you can probably appreciate what that means to getting projects to go together smoothly. And paired with a planer (get the planer first...), you have what you need to take rough lumber to finished project. The TS, J and P are the "work triangle" of the traditional electron-powered woodworking shop. (IMHO)

[Frank Fusco]

Can't name any books. But as someone who isn't much beyond the newbie stage, I'll share a bit of hard learned table saw wisdom. #1: Don't stand in direct line with the blade. #2: A table saw is for ripping. But if used for cross-cutting, do not use the RIP fence as a length guide. How do I know? Glad you asked. I was cutting some 6" lengths of 2x4 and using the fence as a guide and standing in line with the blade. A hunk caught on the blade and shot back hitting me in the solar plexus. I was down for the count and couldn't resume work for about 15 minutes. It hurt aplenty. On another list I was reminded (actually taught) that the fence is a RIP FENCE and a no-no for cross cutting.

[Michael Em]

This place is awesome. I can't wait to build something! A router table perhaps? I see those cost money too. Sheesh, I better land more clients for this hobby. :P

Thanks everyone for the incredible warm welcome and already good tips. I started a sketch book for notes from here and also to sketch ideas I have to build things. I went ahead and ordered Router Magic and TS Magic from Amazon. Also ordered up Mehler's TS book too, and will look for video stuff today on my lunch hour.

I edited my profile to reflect where I'm at which is dead center of California near Fresno. Any creekers from CA?

Thanks again and I look forward to getting to know everyone on here!

Michael
Madera, CA

[glenn bradley]

First of all Welcome!

Regarding the jointer question; I got by with some of these:

https://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3203&HomePageDeal=True

cheap and effective.

When I just started out I used a lot of 'home improvement' lumber which gave a sort-of straight edge to work from. Once I started getting the feel for what I was doing (a little bit), I went for a small delta jointer and a DeWalt 3-knife planer.

The way I looked at sizing material was changed forever, literally. The jointer and planer along with a quality TS blade and a properly set up saw allow me to "make" the board I need. I am no longer subject to the shape of the material I get at the store.

I'm not sure how to better describe the effect these tools had on the way I approach a project other than to say it changed completely. If the grain pattern I'm after is in the middle of a piece of lumber, I can "machine" that piece out and into the shape I require.

As a newbie I will say I don't use the jointer the way some of the other folks here do. My baby Delta couldn't take much more than I already give it. But I see a "real" jointer in my future (emphasizing future). The DW planer is doing well. In the mean time, welcome once again and there's lots to do and learn with what you already have.

Enjoy!

[Allen Bookout]

Thinking about a first project? My suggestion would be a crosscut sled for your new cabinetsaw. Cheap to build and an extremely useful and safe to use jig. I use my crosscut sled more than anything else that I have built.

[Bartee Lamar]

You really have an excellent start. The Saw book is really a good idea to learn basic techniques.

I would recommend at least on Gripper for saw saftey. I have 2 and use the ALL the time.

I started by building things for the shop.

A basic workbench.

A bench setup for your cut off saw.

Some jigs.... the crosscut sled is a great Idea.

I started with a small set (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30224&cat=1,46168) of 1/2" shaft router bits that I did some initial projects. Just a simple round over bit and a camfer bit will do some impressive things.

One of the "tools" I enjoy most lately really suprised me. It is a square from woodPeck.com. (http://www.woodpeck.com/1281.html) My other two measuring tools are a plain ole 10 ft Stanley tape measue and a 12" metal rule from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=32567&cat=1,43513)

I also found that dial caliper were a surprise tool. These are available from a lot of sources. Mine is a cheap General that I got from HD.

I could go on and on about my favorite tools in the shop.

Just keep asking for suggestions here...

[Larry Fox]

Michael - as others have already said, welcome to the Creek and your initial acquisitions should serve you well (nice gloat on the saw).

As far as books go, I can't help you on a TS book but the video idea is a good one. Some books I can recommend:

Understanding Wood: (ISBN 1561583588)
The Complete Guide to Sharpening : (1561581259)
Any router book by Pat Warner - one example: (1561584231)
Great Wood Finishes: A Step-by-Step Guide to Beautiful Results: (1561582883) You can't go wrong with a book from Jeff Jewitt
Understanding Wood Finishing: (0762101911)
Planecraft (if you are interested in using hand planes)

As far as tool acquisition goes, the approach that works for me is basically need-based. If I encounter a problem in my current project that I determine can't be safely solved using my current tool collection, I start researching options and purchase. One exception to this rule is clamps, you can never have too many clamps. The piece of advise I will give on those is to buy the best ones you can afford. Few things are more frustrating to me than working with a difficult-to-use clamp.

As far as a jointer goes, you don't NEED one but you likely will get to the point very quickly where you really want one. A #7 hand plane and some practice will put the purchase off for a bit but I think you will eventually want one. I agree with other posters that a planer should come first though. For the jointer, I would (and did - twice) look in the used market. There are many deals to be had if you are patient. Based on observation, it seems the typical pattern is to buy a 6" jointer as your first and then upgrade to an 8" or larger based on need sometime down the road. Given this pattern, you can assume that 6" jointers are readily available from people a step ahead of you on the upgrade curve.

I also agree with other posters that building shop projects is a good place to start as it allows you to expolre woodworking using a variety of woods and techniques without having to worry so much about the task of finishing - that can come later. Also, these are things that you will likely need and use all the time anyway (especially a cross-cut sled).

Anyway, welcome and good luck. Remeber, this is a friendly place so use the search feature and ask questions, you will be pleasantly surprised by people's generosity.

[Mike Cutler]

Michael.

Nice equipment you bought there. The router is a very nice one.

Let's see books. 'Tablesaw Magic by Tolpin is a good one, as previously Id'd. Kelly Mehler's book is a good one also.

For Router's. I have Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. It's a good one. Don't forget that for the router, Pat Warner, a member here on the board, has an excellent router website, and has also written numerous article's and books on the subject. I generally consider Pat Warner, Bill Hylton and Carol Reed to be about the best sources for learning the router, and opening up what can, and should not be done with one.

For the tablesaw basics. here are a few things I was taught a zillion years ago.

1. No loose clothing, or gloves. No necklaces, bracelets or long hair near the table. Pull the hair into a ponytail and stuff it down the back of your shirt.

2. In the beginning mark all cut's completely with a pencil line. This lets you eyeball the cut to make sure it's somewhere near correct, and lets you know where not to put your hands.

3. Pushsticks. use 'em. Have lots of them, keep them near the saw.

4. keep the table clear of anything that is not being cut. No scraps, rulers tools, etc.

5.Use the splitter, and the blade guard. I know that everyone takes the blade guard off, me included, but the blade guard will be a key visual to where your hands should not be.

6. Unplug the saw when changing blades, don't just turn it off, unplug it.

7. The miter guage and the fence are not used simultaneously on a single cut. You can pinch the material and send it back in your face.

8.Hearing protection, and eye protection. Wear them both. Stuff is still going to be coming up at times. Especially plywoods.

9. Blade height is one half to a full gullet above the material.

10. See #1.

With a tablesaw, always know and see in your mind exactly what the cut should be. It's not a speed contest. Take your time and visualize the entire process before you turn the saw on.

I realize that this sounds very remedial, and preachy. I apologize upfront for that. Take your time and go slow, and read the entire owners manual that 'Griz sent with your saw, and don't be intimidated to ask questions. Everybody had to learn at sometime.

Take care
Mike

[scott spencer]

This place is awesome. I can't wait to build something! A router table perhaps? I see those cost money too. Sheesh, I better land more clients for this hobby. :P

Router table's can be pretty cheap if you're thrifty, just a bit creative, and willing to spend a couple of hours DIY. IMO they're an excellent project, and it doesn't have to be your final dream table the first time.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/RT/1b84239e.jpg

[Chip Olson]

You can get away with no jointer or planer if you're working mostly with plywood and/or buy solid wood that's already surfaced (S3S or S4S). That's more expensive in the long run, of course, depending on how much wood you go through. I'm still going that route because my current big project (kitchen cabinets) doesn't require much fancy solid-wood work, and I have no room for a jointer.

[Larry Browning]

Michael,
I have the 1023SL and it is great! You probably should have gotten an underpowered, misaligned, cheap piece of #%$! before the Grizzly, because you may not fully appreciate how nice this saw really is without something to compare it to.
I have a couple of suggestions for you before the saw arrives.
1) Get yourself a good blade because it doesn't come with one. I think this is a good thing, because you don't have to justify the purchase of a nice blade to replace the one that came with the saw!
2) Download the manual from the Grizzly web site and study how to assemble the thing before it arrives. This will save you lots of time and mistakes. While reading the manual you will also discover that you will need to purchase a electrical plug as well (A 6ft cord is provided, it just doesn't have a plug on the end). You also need to verify that you have all the power requirements available such as a 30amp(?) dedicated 220 breaker with the proper receptical (etc...)

Larry

[Allen Bookout]

Michael,
You also need to verify that you have all the power requirements available such as a 30amp(?) dedicated 220 breaker with the proper receptical (etc...)

Larry

A 20 amp-220 volt will do it.

[Mike Hill]

Michael: Just a few months ago I purchased a new G1023SL. It is the center of my shop and something I use daily for just about everything. I do not spend much time on the router table. I have TS Magic and there is another book out for building Table Saw jigs and other jigs for the shop.

The first day I used my saw, I remember ripping a narrow piece of hardwood. I will admit to my hands shaking, but I charged ahead. An accident when ripping on a Radial Arm saw when I was 20 something made me really apprehensive. let me say this: If your saw is tuned up correctly and you follow the recommendations in the books you have purchased you should have no problems. Yes, you need to be careful, but up to this point I have done everything on that saw and have never had a kickback or serious piece of lumber thrown at me:) .

The common jigs I have made are many different kinds of push sticks, tapering jig, rough lumber ripping jig, sliding cross cut sled (a real "must" for the TS) etc. One jig that I use constantly is a one inch wide piece of hard wood that hangs near the front of the saw and has a small lip that holds it to the front of the table. It goes up against the fence and it stops just well short of the blade. Let's say you want to cross cut a 14" piece of wood. You set your fence at 15", insert the 1" jig and butt the piece up against it. Hold it tight against the miter gauge and when it gets to the blade it will exit the jig and will not be trapped against the fence. Extremely simple, but I use it on all long cross cuts.

Best of luck with your saw, let's see some pictures when it is all set up.
Mike

[Michael Em]

A 20 amp-220 volt will do it.

DOH! I totally forgot about electrical requirements! :eek:

In fact, come to think of it, I am going to need a lot more electrical outlets in the garage. Time to buy an electrical book too I guess. It seems that a huge mess in the garage is eminent. I can feel the drywall and paint chips on my face already. I think I am going to have to prepare the garage before I start building stuff and fill it up with many more tools.

You guys are giving me some great information and I appreciate it a lot! Thanks! I'm taking a lot of notes in my woodworking sketchbook already.

I started a list of projects:

Electrical for 20/220
Router Table
Rip Fence
Work Bench/Table
Cabinets for storage in garage.

I also started a list (well, Mike C started it for me) of all the little stuff I apparently need like push sticks and that sort of thing. Sheesh. Judging from the video I saw of Stu's dungeon, I am going to need a ton of small tools and storage for them. Let the madness begin!:D

Michael

[Corey Hallagan]

Congrats. I think you have selected some fine machinery so far. I know that table saw has a good reputation and I own that router and it is a dandy one. Enjoy and be safe.

corey

[Rob Curtis]

Wiring a House by Rex Caldwell-- This is an awesome book on electrical wiring. I paid about $30 for it a few years ago and felt it was worth every penny. I found it cheap here, too:

http://www.bookcloseouts.com/default.asp?Ntk1=Default&Ntt1=taunton&Ntx1=matchall&Nsl=0&Ix=273&R=1561583324B&Rt=285&Nty1=1

I am a newb woodworker, too. I have been working on my house doing major renovations over the past few years, amassing a load of tools that deserve a more skilled owner. I just got interested in woodworking and bought my first router, the DW618 and have been building my daughter a bookcase, using the router for the dados. I am on the same slippery slope and have had the UPS guy sweating over the last few weeks.

The only thing I can tell you from my perspective as a fellow newb is to spend the time setting up your new tools well. You will avoid a lot of frustration if you can avoid the urge to slap it together and make something. Do as others have mentioned and make some stuff for your shop.

It's a lot of fun. Just make sure you always listen to that little voice when it says, "Uhhh, maybe not such a good idea." Nearly everytime (three) I've had wood flung from my TS at me, just seconds before it happened, I heard a little murmer way in the back of my mind...

R

[Norman Hitt]

DOH! I totally forgot about electrical requirements! :eek:

In fact, come to think of it, I am going to need a lot more electrical outlets in the garage. Time to buy an electrical book too I guess. Let the madness begin!:D

Michael

Michael, I'll make a suggestion that when you add your electrical outlets around he wall, that you mount them about 54" above the floor. As shops go, there always seems to be the need to lean plywood or other things against the walls, mount benches along the walls, etc, but with the 54" high mounting, you won't have to be moving sheet goods to get to a plug, or if you have a bench along the wall, you won't have to move a dozen things on the bench that always seem to collect right in front of the plug, yet it will still be low enough to not interfere with any wall mounted cabinets you might have above the benches. You can even mount them horizontally instead of vertically if you like. Sometimes, a couple mounted on the ceiling are good also, such as just above the end of the right extension table where you will normally have your table saw sitting, as this keeps the extension cord for the table saw off the floor where it is easy to trip over but will not be in the way when you are using the saw.

You will probably need to add more ceiling lighting also, especially over the primary tools and workbench or assembly table.

If you will be working in the shop at night, I would have at least one light on a different circuit, which would prevent you being in the dark with a blade still spinning should you happen to have a ckt brkr trip. A good procedure for shop electricals is to run a line from your main House breaker panel and install a sub panel then run all your shop outlets and "Additional lights" out of that panel in the shop and leave the normal ceiling light you already have in there on the circuit it is on now. This would give you one light even if the whole subpanel breaker tripped. Also, by installing the subpanel and then running from it, your 220, a few 110 outlets and any additional lighting you feel necessary, it would be real easy to wire additional outlets and lights from that subpanel as you need them when you add other equipment down the line yet not have to spend so much initially. Just be sure to have a subpanel installed with plenty of ckt brkr spaces to allow for future additions.

Just something to think about.

[Chuck Nickerson]

I'm also a recent beginner (2 years) and largely self-taught. So here we go...

Router - books by Pat Warner and Carol Reed. Also Pat Warner's site.

Tablesaw - Kelly Mehler.

When you get to bandsaw - Mark Duginski

General - Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley

When you get to hand tools - The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee.

Jim Toplin's tablesaw book has been mentioned by others. I haven't seen it, but the one book of his I do have (Wit and Wisdom), didn't do anything for me.

[Mike Jory]

Hey Michael;
You made some fine tool decisions. Here are a couple of thoughts. Go to the Woodcraft web site, there are some videos there that may help, or certainly fun to watch. Search for a woodworking store in your area. http://www.woodcraft.com/stores/store.aspx?id=320 This is the closest one I could find. Nothing beats seeing a tool in use to answer questions as they come up. If you feel like making the trip to Sac, Woodcraft has some classes and demonstration sessions that you may find helpful.

If not, I have two more suggestions;
I know this may be a bit of a drive. but it's an idea. There is a school in Alameda called http://www.woodworkeracademy.com/
There are beginner classes regularly.

Last resort; Come to my shop :eek: I don't have a table as as good as yours,:D but we could hang out and I could (probably) show you, or answer all (most) of your questions. If interested, I may not see this thread again, you can PM me here, or email me: jory@kpix.cbs.com
Mike

[Mike Null]

Congratulations on your selections. A couple of things I may have missed on the previous posts. After more than 40 years of wood working I have been fortunate not to have been injured seriously. A couple of kick back things which could have been serious were I not lucky. So here's point 1. don't risk working with punk wood. If it's not dry, fairly straight, bowed or warped don't mess with it. 2. Some wood dust, walnut for example, gives me problems. Be prepared to wear a mask or respirator. 3. The best tool I've bought in a long time was a Forrest WWII blade. I can't believe how much better it made my old Craftsman saw.