Removing old pre-hung door

[Don Morris]

Sort of a woodworking question. I'm at the last legs of a home renovation and saved changing a bathroom door from a right swing to left swing after the redesign changed things around. So I have to remove the old pre-hung door. When I get to the part of where the jamb is exposed and only held in by the shims nailed to the framing studs, what do you guys do to take that part out? Rent a reciprocating saw and cut through the nails in the shims, beat the s___t out of the jamb and take it out in pieces, or as I suspect there is some slick way I haven't thought of which is why I'm asking the guys on SMC. I thought of hack sawing but I haven't got the heart for that. There must be a way. I'm almost ready to go rent a reciprocating saw, which in my mind might justify another tool. Thanks for any input.

[Steve Clardy]

Take a chisel or bar and split, remove the shims. That will give you room to go in and push, bash the exposed nail shank, hopefully bending it.
Then remove jam

[Matt Meiser]

When I replaced our front door I just cut the nails with a reciprocating saw. I wouldn't rent one. Buy it. They are a very useful tool to have. I debated buying one for a long time and found other ways to do things. But I use the reciprocating saw pretty often now that I have it. I've even used it to trim trees--much safer to use on a ladder than a chainsaw, or at least I feel safer.

[Lou Morrissette]

I agree on the reciprocating saw. It's fairly inexpensive and has many uses around the house or shop.

Lou

[Don Morris]

Thanks for sending me over the edge. You can never have too many clamps or tools. Thanks guys. When the contractor's people were putting together our new composite deck, they had to take apart our old deck and were using a reciprocating saw for a number of tasks, including cutting off the galvanized nails I used on the old deck. I saw that and made note of it. I agree, they could be used for several different kinds of jobs. I was thinking of a 21 ga pin nailer, but, maybe that'll be next year.

[Charlie Plesums]

.... I was thinking of a 21 ga pin nailer, but, maybe that'll be next year.
I hope not... Brad nailers are normally 18 gauge, and are about as small as you can expect the nail to hold anything. My pin nailer is 23 (not 21 gauge), and is only strong enough to hold trim in place until the glue dries, but is fine enough that I don't fill the nail holes. I wouldn't want anything larger than 23 gauge (i.e. I would not buy a 21 gauge). Of course if you just made a typo, sorry for the alarm.

[Ben Grunow]

Set the nails with your smallest set and then pry the jamb free from the studs gently. Use a large prybar and a block to prevent splitting the jamb.

BTW, why not leave the jamb and make some nice dutchmen to fill the mortises and re-mortise the hinges on the other side? (At least that would be woodworking!) Then you wouldnt have to disturb the casings and make a mess in general.

[Norman Hitt]

Set the nails with your smallest set and then pry the jamb free from the studs gently. Use a large prybar and a block to prevent splitting the jamb.

BTW, why not leave the jamb and make some nice dutchmen to fill the mortises and re-mortise the hinges on the other side? (At least that would be woodworking!) Then you wouldnt have to disturb the casings and make a mess in general.

WHAT!!!!!!!!!!:eek: And miss a chance to buy a NEW TOOL.......NEVER!!!!:D :D

[Per Swenson]

Three things, Sawzall, Sawzall, Sawzall.

OK, 4. Two cuts, both sides of the jamb in the middle. Pry it out with

your hammer. 5 pieces under 41 inch, fits nicely in the garbage can.

3 minute job. ( I am number happy this morning.)

Per