Cutting table saw rails?

[Mark Rios]

If I get a Delta unisaw (from one of two different sources now) it will have the 7' rails which are way too long for me and my space. I'd probably cut them to give me 32" to the right, maybe 36" but no more, I just don't have the room.

Is it a big deal to cut the rails down? Are there any tricks or special info that I need to do it effectively and/or properly?

Thanks very much for you help and info.

[Jamie Buxton]

It isn't a big deal. I've done it a couple times. Get out your hacksaw and go to work. Or get out your Sawsall, put a steel-cutting blade in it, and save yourself some sweat. Clean off the burrs with a file.

[Gary Herrmann]

If you don't have a sawzall, go get a metal cutting blade for your cs and use it. Might even have less clean up with the file.

[Frankie Hunt]

It depends upon which fence you get. I have the Unifence and also installed a Dewalt sliding table on the left and had to cut the left side. I cut the Unifence rail with my compound miter saw (the rail is aluminum). The Biesemeyer fence is tubular steel, I would think the best bet for this is a hack saw, this would allow more precision than a power tool. If you get an older Unisaw with the JetLock fence then the hack saw is the best bet there too. Those tube rails are really tough!

[Mark Rios]

Thanks for the great info guys. I apologize that I wasn't more clear. Both of these saw have a Beis fence and rails so it looks like a hacksaw or one of my Sawzalls.

Terrific! Thanks for the help. I just still have an oogy feeling about cutting a brand new (on one saw) or nearly new rail. Almost hurts my feelings. :D

[Gary Curtis]

Mark, I had to cut the Biesemeyer fence rails to fit the sliding table onto my General TS. I used the masonary cutting wheel on my Skilsaw, and the heat scorched the white powder coating on the rails.

If I were to do it again, I would use a Sawzall with a fine-tooth blade.

Gary Curtis

[Jim Becker]

You could also consider buying a set of short rails separately as an investment and keeping the longer ones for future use...

[Mark Rios]

You could also consider buying a set of short rails separately as an investment and keeping the longer ones for future use...


Thanks for the suggestion but I wasn't aware that there was an "in-between" rail length. I thought the right side cutting width choices were 26" OR 50". Is there another length?


Thanks very much for the help.

[Joe Mioux]

Hack saw, sawzall, circular saw, and portable band saw.

I have cut angle and steel tubing all ways. I would recommend finding a friend who has one or renting a portable band saw.

They cut this kind of stuff like a hot butter knife thru butter. The cut is very clean.

If you lived closer I would let you borrow mine.

Joe

[Mark Rios]

Thanks very much to all for the cutting tool info. However, coming from a body shop background (namely frame straightening and panel replacement) the physical act of cutting the rails shouldn't be a problem.

What I don't know, is is there is any thing I should do about the powder coating, as one person mentioned, the tape on the front rail (pull it off/back or just cut through it, fitting up and/or cutting the extension tables on the right side after the rail is shorter, that sort of thing. Any of those kind of tips or tricks are greatly appreciated.

However, Jim's post (thanks very much) does bring up my question regarding an inbetween rail length availability. Anyone have any info on that as well?

Thank you all VERY much again for your help, info and advice.

[Greg Koch]

Mark,

The lengths available depend on the type of Biesemeyer, Commercial or HomeShop. You probably have the commercial version, but would be worth checking. You can see your options here: http://www.biesemeyer.com/products/index.htm Also check their clearance area for rail sets, or give them a call. They may have something coming up for listing you can get first.

You can also check ebay for a set of rails, they are offered a lot...

I just installed a 40" Bies system on my Delta, but it's the HomeShop version (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=41477).

[Steve Clardy]

Don't think I would ever cut those rails.

When I went with 60" rails, I positioned them so I have 36 1/2 to the right, and 24" to the left of the blade.:)

Could you just remount them to the left?:confused:

[Mark Rios]

Well, it's not conjecture anymore, I just bought it. A barely used one from a local guy. I pick it up on Tuesday.

Thanks very much for the cautious opinion Steve. As I said earlier, It gives me an oogy feeling to think about cuttng those rails simply because of their value of being that long.

And thanks to Grag for the link to Beisemeyer. For some reason I couldn't get it on a Google search, just other retail online outlets. Thanks very much.

Thanks again to all.

[Greg Koch]

Mark,

Congrats!.....We will be expecting pics! :D :D

(I live in Seattle, but was born and raised in Fresno)

[Norman Hitt]

Mark, another option might be to post an offer to trade on all the ww forums,(with you getting a little boot) from someone that might have shorter rails but wants to go to longer rails. Another option might be to buy shorter rails like Jim said, and then sell your long rails on EBay or some other place. I'd like th have them myself for a second saw I have, but it's just not in the budget right now.

[Greg Narozniak]

When I got my Unisaw the fence rail extended past the left side of the saw and After only having the saw 1 week I hit my hip on it at least half a dozen times I took the rail off and removed the plastic end cap. Then I broke out the Makita Metal Chop saw and trimmed it up and replaced the end cap. Been a few years and I have not regreted it once.

If you cut it down you can always buy a longer one if the need ever comes up.

Greg