edge jointing quietly

[Mark Vaughn]

Hi all, I was wondering what hand plane you guys would suggest for edge-jointing boards that are pretty much already straight, as in boards that are bought 4s or 2s or whatever it is. I'm looking for a hand tool instead of an electric jointer mainly for money and portability, speed isn't too much of a factor. Can a $50-$80 plane get me edges good enough to glue up for table tops? and which one would you suggest? Thank you for your help and any other low cost edge jointing suggestions, Mark

[Nick Zentena]

I use a Stanley #8 but then I don't mind the added weight. Others like a 7. I'm not current on prices but even years ago my sweetheart 8 cost more then $80. 7s tend to be cheaper.

Good enough? I'm fairly sure they made glued up panels before they discovered electricity.

[Pete Bradley]

I use my cheapo #7 even after using a powered jointer. Clamp the boards together face to face with the edges aligned and take a light (not necessarily wispy) cut. The face to face cancels out any slight angle you put in with the plane. I keep the blade very sharp which results in a glasslike surface in most woods.

Pete

[Jamie Buxton]

A jointer plane will do the job, but you must also budget for sharpening equipment.

[Mark Vaughn]

cool, thx for the replies, time to hit ebay i guess...

[Mark Vaughn]

ok, does anyone know anything about this one?
http://www.stanleytools.com/?CATEGORY=PLANES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=12-007&SDesc=Bailey%26%23174%3B+Jointer+Bench+Plane

i can't seem to find the price or any info on it, if anyone knows let me know, thanks

[Nick Zentena]

Personally I wouldn't buy new. I might take one if you gave it to me but I wouldn't buy new.

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm

http://www.supertool.com/oldtools.htm

[Mark Singer]

I will often use a #4 or #5 to smoothe the board and add a touch of concavity to the fit....so there is a bit of light between boards

[Ian Gillis]

It depend mostly on how long your boards are. The humble jackplane (No. 5 or equivalent) will take you pretty far. In fact, if you have a good straight edge to check your progress, there's no real limit to how long a board you can edge joint.

[Don Baer]

Although I own a small powered joiner I don't use it. I edge join one of two ways. The noisy way is on my table saw with a good rip blade. The other way is with a jack plane. I know that this is the neander forum so I won't elaborate on the TS method but I have foound that both methods have their place.

[Steve Wargo]

If it's shorter than about 5 1/2 foot I use a No.5. Longer than that I use a 7. But to be honest... since I got the inca, I don't edge joint a whole lot by hand.

[Chris Barton]

I'm like Don but, I will often use my Festool At55e guided circular saw system for really bad boards. Works much faster than a jointer and for a glue joint produces a good surface. For less complicated boards I use an old Stanly #5 Jack like Ian's suggestion.

[Mark Vaughn]

i really apprecitate everyones help! I will probably never be planing boards over 5 foot long. theres a whole lot more choices in the jack plane category than the jointer plane, does anyone have any suggestions for a jack plane under $100? I have a thickness planer so all i'll be using this for is the edges. i thank you all so much

[Steve Schoene]

You should be looking at older Stanley Bailey model planes--much better than current production Stanley or any others in that price range. The only new planes worth considering cost much more--they won't work much better than a well tuned pre-WWII Bailey, but they will come ready to use, while you will likely need to invest some time tuning up the older planes. Both Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen make excellent planes, but not close to the $50 price point.

[jonathan snyder]

Mark,

I have a couple of pre war Stanley's. I really enjoy using vintage tools. I am really new to the world of vintage stanley planes, but it is my understanding that if you want a pre war plane avoid anything with a kidney shaped hole in the lever cap or with raised stanley lettering on a red background on the lever cap.

There are lots of folks on the web who sell good users. Some will even send you plane to check out. If you want to buy it you send them a check or you send the plane back. Cant beat that deal in my book. PM me if you would like a recomendation on where to buy.

Jonathan

[Mike Henderson]

If you're edge planing for glue up, you should plane both boards simultaneously - that is, clamp both boards side by side and plane them both at the same time. This will give you a larger surface to plane on so you're more likely to plane the boards square. And if you don't plane them square, the angles will match up when you put the two boards together. A little thought will tell you how to put the boards together so that they match up properly when you finish.

This solves the side-to-side problem but you still have to deal with the straight from end-to-end problem.

I can't plane straight even with a long plane (like a Stanley #7) so when I joint, I use a straight edge and plane and check, plane and check. That way, you can see if there are any dips or bumps on the boards and adjust your planing to get them straight.

As Mark said earlier, a small bit of concavity in the middle is good but only a small amount. When in doubt, go for straight.

I use a relatively small plane, either a 4 1/2 or a 5 to edge joint.

Mike

[Mike Wenzloff]

...As Mark said earlier, a small bit of concavity in the middle is good but only a small amount. When in doubt, go for straight.
Straight is good.

Do note Michael's comment about having only a small amount of concavity.

Also realize that if you are match-planing, when you stick the straight edge to the boards to check for straight, that there is most likely double the amount of concavity once the boards are laid together--if both boards are concave by 1/64", then there is really 1/32" between the boards. And so on. It doesn't take much for too large of gap to be present.

Take care, Mike

[Nick Zentena]

Could always try a jointer fence to keep the plane in line. LV sells a new one.

[Jeff Morgan]

Hi all, I was wondering what hand plane you guys would suggest for edge-jointing boards that are pretty much already straight, as in boards that are bought 4s or 2s or whatever it is. I'm looking for a hand tool instead of an electric jointer mainly for money and portability, speed isn't too much of a factor. Can a $50-$80 plane get me edges good enough to glue up for table tops? and which one would you suggest? Thank you for your help and any other low cost edge jointing suggestions, Mark
A low cost option is to build your own hand plane. You can pick up a plane
iron from hock tools (http://www.hocktools.com/products.htm#PI) for $50
and then with a little 8/4 wood you can make several planes. For jointing
I have a 21" with a 45 degree bed and two 17" planes with 45 and 50 degree
beds all that hold (and share) a 2" hock blade.

For detailed instructions on how to build your own plane you can go to
(http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/1273456.html). (http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/furniture/1273456.html)

-Jeff

[Robert Rozaieski]

I'm going to make a suggestion that no one has yet that is also slightly against the grain. Consider a transitional jointer. When edge jointing boards, the longer the plane the better. The length helps to keep things straight, just like a longer bed on a stationary jointer is better for the same reasons. The longest that a typical metal jointer comes in is 24" (#8 size) and most of these go for a pretty penny for the work they need (and an even prettier penny if you want to buy a new one that is ready to use). I don't have that kind of money to spend on tools due to a growing toddler and a house that needs a lot of work so I got a Stanley #33 (28" long!) for $20. These are not as popular as the metal bodied planes so they go for less money and there is less competition for them on the auctions.

That's not to say that these planes don't have their problems and don't need some work, but if you are patient and picky you can get one in good shape that doesn't need a lot of work for very little money. My #33 weighs less than a #7, the sole is much easier to flatten than a metal bodied plane (use another plane or scraper and a known straightedge and square or lap like a metal bodied plane but faster to do) and I think it's easier to handle than a heavy #8 (I don't have a number 8 but it's much easier to handle than my #7). If the mouth is to wide, you can add a patch to tighten it, glue on a new sole in which you could then cut a tighter mouth, or make a whole new bottom (in any length from any wood you want). You get the light weight, flexibility and easy repair of a wooden bodied plane with the easy adjustment of the metal bodied planes. These planes are by no means inferior to the metal planes. They can be made to perform just as well for a lot less money and are easily customizable if you want to go that far. I don't use them for everything, but we're talking about edge jointing here, not preparing a surface for finishing (not that you couldn't use a transitional for that as well). For a long jointer, my vote goes to the transitional.

Here's an example of what you could do with one if you chose to. These planes were not made by me.

http://www.sydnassloot.com/bimages/36Cocobola01.jpg

http://www.sydnassloot.com/bimages/edgejointer02.jpg

[Mark Vaughn]

I bought these 2 planes off ebay for $60, please tell me they don't suck, i have no idea, i just impulsed bought kinda. they are #5 type 18, supposedly made in 1946-47. i hope they are good!..
45605

[Brett Baldwin]

As long as they are solid (no cracks) and not warped from who-knows-what abuse they should work fine with a little tune up. Many people made a living for decades with tools not nearly as good. Most of the ease of use will be found in how well you tune it up and how well you sharpen the blade. Numerous good tutorials in the backposts.

[Mark Vaughn]

Mark,

I have a couple of pre war Stanley's. I really enjoy using vintage tools. I am really new to the world of vintage stanley planes, but it is my understanding that if you want a pre war plane avoid anything with a kidney shaped hole in the lever cap or with raised stanley lettering on a red background on the lever cap.

There are lots of folks on the web who sell good users. Some will even send you plane to check out. If you want to buy it you send them a check or you send the plane back. Cant beat that deal in my book. PM me if you would like a recomendation on where to buy.

Jonathan


do these have a "kidney shaped hole" or red background??

[jonathan snyder]

do these have a "kidney shaped hole" or red background??

Indeed they do, which I believe indicates that they are post WWII. Have fun tunning them up. I'm sure you will enjoy using them.

Jonathan

[Larry Gelder]

Jeff Morgan,

May we see pictures of your planes?

[Jeff Morgan]

Jeff Morgan,

May we see pictures of your planes?

Definately. I am currently traveling for my job but should be home
on Friday. I'll post them then.

[Terry Bigelow]

I have to agree with these guys, old Stanleys are the way to go(especially on a budget!). I have numbers 3,4,5,6,7,& 8(1 and 2 are rare, unecessary and cost a pretty penny) and a few blocks and rabbet planes. I bought all of mine at antique shops and eBay besides the few from my Gramps. With a little elbow grease and some time on the stone you can usually get'em tuned up nice. Just be sure to look for cracks and pitting(on the sole) and make sure all the parts ae there. Oh and I like the #5 unless it's a long board.

[Pam Niedermayer]

After playing with a #7, I converted to wooden planes. My latest and greatest is a C&W 30" jointer, but before that I fell in love with the ECE Primus 701. I also occasionally use the HNT Gordon try plane for jointing. These planes are wonderful fun to use, and it's easier to keep the tall wooden jointers perpendicular to the board.

Pam

[Chris Padilla]

I have an ECE Primus 701...was just giving it a workout last night on some poplar. However, these planes aren't cheap...you are looking at ~$200 or so for these long woodies....

[Bob Hallowell]

I am no expert, but I use a old beat up #7 and a jointer fence, works great for me. But I am a fairly big guy so the extra weight doesn't bother me.

Bob

[Don Boys]

I will take a different tack. I don't have a jointer so do everything with hand planes. First you must understand the procedure, and for that I recommend viedeos by David Charlesworth and/or Rob Cosman, available from Lie-Nielsen.com. David uses a #7 Stanley, which is the cheapest way to go. You must howerver flatten the sole, and that will be a long project on a old #7. The Lie-Nielsen #7 eliminates that need. You can do a job better than with a jointer if you are patient. And the skills learned stay with you forever.

Don Boys