Protecting cast iron table top

[Christopher Kanda]

I am buying a new saw and need to know what would be a good product to use on the cast iron top to seal and protect it. Any ideas would be helpful, thanks guys.

[Jim Benante]

Johnson's paste wax. They'll have it at the grocery store. There are other products out there, but this is an easy way and effective treatment. Clean the surface with mineral spirits, but make sure not to get the mineral spirits on the painted areas. I used a 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits then waxed and buffed like you would a car. Reapply a few times a year.

[John Kain]

Johnson's paste wax. They'll have it at the grocery store. There are other products out there, but this is an easy way and effective treatment. Clean the surface with mineral spirits, but make sure not to get the mineral spirits on the painted areas. I used a 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits then waxed and buffed like you would a car. Reapply a few times a year.

ditto from me...........

[Russ Filtz]

Wax didn't work for me in humid Florida. Only thing that works is a thick coat of Boeshield.

[Ron Blaise]

I am buying a new saw and need to know what would be a good product to use on the cast iron top to seal and protect it. Any ideas would be helpful, thanks guys.
Johnson's Past Wax and I live in the steamy south. You just have to prep the surface well. I use Alcohol or mineral spirits first and haven't had any rust since.

[Charles McKinley]

Welcome Christopher!

A lot of use. I use Boeshield topped with paste wax. When I use the saw a lot the rust stays away. When I leave to shop sit the rust mite come from everywhere.

If possible keep the humidity down and the extreame temperature swings to a minimum. My shop is uninsulated and unheated and there are times every metal object in it is wet. :(

I agree with Ron that good prep and maintence is needed.

Welcome again and enjoy your new toy err I mean tool.

[Cecil Arnold]

I've used Top Coat, paste wax, and Boeshield, but what works best for me is Renaissance Wax.

[Steve Schoene]

Mineral spirits won't have any harmful effect on painted surfaces.

[Jim Benante]

Mineral spirits won't have any harmful effect on painted surfaces.

Good to know. Now I don't have to be as careful.

[Ron Blaise]

I am buying a new saw and need to know what would be a good product to use on the cast iron top to seal and protect it. Any ideas would be helpful, thanks guys.

to avoid rust and all the negative aspects of humidity, invest in a good de-humidifier, sized for your shop. Not only will the rust disappear but your wood projects will be much more stable because your wood moisture content will be as well. But, use the wax too. It makes everything slide much smoother. I understand Wally World has some good units at very reasonable prices. Good investment!
Happy sawdust

[Russ Massery]

Another vote for Johnson's paste wax.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Wax didn't work for me in humid Florida. Only thing that works is a thick coat of Boeshield.

What is Boeshield?? Is it mineral spirits with microcrystaline waxes??

[Doug Jones]

johnson's paste wax

[Christopher Kanda]

Thanks for the information guys. This site is a great resource. I'm new to woodworking and just getting a few tools. I just ordered a Grizzly 1023SLWX and a G7944 drill press. I can't wait to get started.

[Russ Filtz]

Boeshield is a commercial spray, comes in a can like WD-40, but better. It was developed by Boeing Aircraft as a rust/corrosion preventer. Do a google search. I got mine from Amazon.

Supposed to use just a thin coating, but I sprayed on thick and let it set as my saw is kind of in storage right now. It stayed rust free for weeks like that. I tried wiping it down and then using a paste wax, but the rust came back immediately. ANother rub and thick coat of Boeshield and no rust again for months, no re-spraying!

If I was using the saw a lot, I'd just do a quick thin spray and let it set. Then wipe it down and maybe wax before each session. I trust the Boeshield more than wax right now.

I also like a product called "SlipIt" which also acts as a coating/wax. It can also help prevent rust, but not like Boeshield does. That would be the ultimate combo in my book.

Boeshield between sessions, and wipe down with Slip-It before working!

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

johnson's paste wax

Really? Then it is nothing but a dispersant and some waxes.

I have wondered if I'g get better fine crevice penetration if I blended Rennisance wax with Mineral spirits.

I have often wondered why we use cast iron when plate aluminum is as stable, strong, and doesn't rust.

Probably the cost which if so is odd as aluminum is bloody plentiful.

[Mike Hill]

Chris: You will be happly with the Grizzly. Take your time setting it up and I think you will be more than satisfied. I also have a WW II blade and a couple of Tenyru"s. Most of the time the WW II is on the saw. Also built a nice out feed table for it. See pictures below:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44425&thumb=1&d=1155147660 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44425&d=1155147660)
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44428&thumb=1&d=1155147885 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44428&d=1155147885)

[Mike Canaris]

Paste wax is good....but if you want something better...that resists fingermarks..and you don't have to apply it every week....try renaissance wax. (http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3235)

[Bruce Wrenn]

Being the frugle one that I am, I make my own top protector. Using a kitchen grater, I grate about 1/4 bar of parraffin into 12 oz of deoderized mineral spirits. I use a coffee can with lid to hold this mixture. In a couple of days, the wax will be desolved in mineral spirits. Pour into an empty spray bottle. Shake well before each use. Spray a light coat on top, let dry and then buff lightly. Works for me! One of the commercial products is parraffin based.

[John Miliunas]

Another vote for Renaissance Wax. I use it on just about everything! Hand planes, cast iron tables, the tool rests on my lathe, etc.. Heck, I've even been known to use it for its intended purpose: Finished wood projects! :D Expensive but very little goes a real long way! :) :cool:

[Allen Bookout]

Boeshield T9 and then wax.

Works in a garage right next to a saltwater canal in humid Southwest Florida.

[Russ Filtz]

I have often wondered why we use cast iron when plate aluminum is as stable, strong, and doesn't rust.

Probably the cost which if so is odd as aluminum is bloody plentiful.

Cast iron's been around longer, so some of it may be tradition. However, cast iron's by nature "porous" between the grains of the metal. Oils, waxes, etc., can lodge between the grains and act as lubricant. Hence Cast iron is a self-lubricating slippery metal. good for lots of things like non-stick skillets (if seasoned!), cylinders for piston engines, and sliding wood across!

Aluminum and stainless tend to be more sticky. I gues an anodized AL surface might be a little better, but you can't re-anodize easy if damaged (unlike a simple re-wax!).

Think of aluminum or stainless screws/bolts. They will seize up on you if not lubricated beforehand.