Am I going to NEED dc for a cabinet saw?

[Mark Rios]

I was thinking about the placement and size of a cabinet saw (a new Grizzly or maybe the Unisaw that I'm hopiong to go look at) in my trailer and all of the sudden I had another question come up.

Am I going to NEED some type of DC if I get a cabinet saw? Or is there a dust chute kinda like on a jointer and I just will have to clean up a mess everyday? Or is there a box to empty or something? Obviously now, with a contractor saw, I have to clean up the floor already so I'm used to that. How much different is it with a cabinet saw?

Thanks very much for your help and information.

[tod evans]

mark, it depends on the saw. some of the older ones where designed to dump the dust either out the back or side. some of the older deltas-n-powermatics required you to open a door to scoop out the dust from under the saw. most if not all newer saws are set up for dust collection but you can just let `em blow and vacuum the mess up when you`re done if it`s less hassel......02 tod

[Mark Rios]

Aaaaahhh, okay.....thanks Tod. Not a problem then, eh?


Thanks.

[Jesse Cloud]

Hey Mark,
Tod nailed the answer to your question, but I was wondering, why a cabinet saw in a trailer? I'm not an expert, but I thought there were two big advantages to a cab saw - bigger table and extensions for handling large pieces and sheet goods, and heavy iron keeps its settings and alignments better than a contractor saw. Don't see how there would be room in a trailer for sheet goods and if you are hauling a cab saw around, I suspect you may need to check the alignment often. I'm not trying to be critical here, just intrigued by the idea. I have a buddy that has an incredibly tricked out trailer with a router table, three different saws, an easy chair and a microwave for his lunch.:D

[Mark Rios]

The trailer doesn't always go out Jesse. Actually, not too often. My saw has it's place at the back of the trailer (although it needs to be able to spin 90 degrees to get other tools and such past it) and other tools, such as my router table and work table/cart for my planer, etc. go in and out when I use them. I only go to other jobs with my trailer maybe once every couple of months.

I would like to have a couple of features from a cab saw that I don't get from my existing contractor saw, even though it's set up very well right now.

One is the ability to use a dado blade. This is pretty big to me. My existing saw has that pesky notch in the arbor between the shoulder that the blade sits on and the threads.

Another thing is a better fence. I'm at the point that I can tell that I could be better with a more reliable fence.

Also, I think that I may be starting to get some arbor runout, this is a contractor saw after all. It's 8 years old now. An arbor issue may explain why I don't get a good cut with a WWII blade. However, I may just be looking to close for a "perfect" cut out of a WWII and I may be unfairly setting the standard too high. Anyway, I do believe that I have an arbor runout issue.


If I'm going to get a new saw, I want to upgrade to something that is better, not the same or less.

I have a pretty big trailer that I got specifically for use as a mobile shop of sorts. I understand your point of neded to keep it adjusted but shouldn't it stay adjusted better than my contractor saw? I keep checking my saw but the trunion mountings/alignment have stayed put, to the best of my knowledge anyway.

Also, I break down my plywood before I take it to the saw.

The only thing that I'm alittle concerned about is that I currently am able to get a 32" cut to the right of the blade (I still have 18" or 20" to the left but I don't use it except to support material while cutting of course) and I could really use at least 30". I can just walk around the end of the saw, with it in working position, without walking sideways. Apparently, a cab saw with 50" rails gets a person only 26" to the right. I'll need to try to deal with that when I get it (maybe different rails?) or make a change in my techniques/work habits. A little shorter rails will give me a little more room to walk by though.

Thanks very much again for the help folks.

[tim rowledge]

It all depends on how valuable your lungs are. Letting the larger stuff fall to the floor and scooping it up at the end of the day might seem ok but there's all that small stuff that doesn't settle anywhere quickly but does do a terrific job of sticking to the cilia in your throat and lodging in your alveoli.

If you work in a place where you can exhaust out of your trailer you might be ok just with a fan - think simple DC with no bags and piped to outdoors.

You should probably consider alternaitve work methods too; perhaps the Festool stuff might fit into a trailer better?

[Mark Rios]

It all depends on how valuable your lungs are. Letting the larger stuff fall to the floor and scooping it up at the end of the day might seem ok but there's all that small stuff that doesn't settle anywhere quickly but does do a terrific job of sticking to the cilia in your throat and lodging in your alveoli.

If you work in a place where you can exhaust out of your trailer you might be ok just with a fan - think simple DC with no bags and piped to outdoors.

You should probably consider alternaitve work methods too; perhaps the Festool stuff might fit into a trailer better?


Thanks very much for the caution and concern Tim. The saw is positioned and used right at the back of the trailer, and always with the ramp door down. I cut toward the door/outside. Currently, the sawdust is ejected down and out, to the back/outside. However, I do still, 95% of the time, wear my Survivair respirator when I'm cutting. I grew up in a body shop and wearing a respirator is really easy and natural for me. Plus, being an EMT, I know where you're coming from regarding the small particulate and lung thing.

Thanks very much again.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

No. It might be nice but no you don't "need" it.
I have an austrian 8' slider and I havn't got more than a shop vac and a broom.

Yes I gotta suk out the DC tubes in the saw. But, so what?

[Steve Clardy]

Not required like a surface planer is. Just scoop er out once in a while before it builds up and covers the motor up

[tim rowledge]

Mark, have you any idea how weird "I grew up in a body shop " sounds to a lifetime SF reader? So didja sell any really neat bodies? Could I get one?

[Mark Rios]

Mark, have you any idea how weird "I grew up in a body shop " sounds to a lifetime SF reader? So didja sell any really neat bodies? Could I get one?


Well, I apologize but I'm not sure what "SF" refers to so I don't know what a lifelong reader of it would read but.......

Since all our shops have been closed for awhile now I'm not sure where you would look for a new body. I've heard of some warehouse distributors that buy and store old stock for the occasional sale to the public however. Perhaps they will take your old body in for a trade-in on a newer , fitter model?

I'm sure the net could provide a venue for a replacement for you.



:D :D :D :D :D

[Dave Mapes]

Mark

I can't help but ask!

Since you plan on keeping the saw on the trailer have you taken into consideration the wear and tear the motor mount trunions will be subjected to by hauling back and forth over the roads. I have to assume the motor is stronger and heavier that the contractor saw it replaced and the trunions should be proctected by some type of removable motor bracket to insure a longer life. (replacing the trunions could be expensive).

[Mark Rios]

Mark

I can't help but ask!

Since you plan on keeping the saw on the trailer have you taken into consideration the wear and tear the motor mount trunions will be subjected to by hauling back and forth over the roads. I have to assume the motor is stronger and heavier that the contractor saw it replaced and the trunions should be proctected by some type of removable motor bracket to insure a longer life. (replacing the trunions could be expensive).

Thanks very much for asking Dave. No, I don't have any knowledge of the issue you are addressing. I didn't think that there would be a problem. I figured that since it was a bigger and heavier duty machine that it would be okay in the trailer. Incidentally, my trailer is a dual axle, 3500# each axle weight capacity, 7000# total. The trailer is only about a year old (maybe 15 months) and the ride in it isn't very rough, that I can tell anyway from the way that the rest of my tools ride. I only take my trailer to other jobs maybe 6 times a year. This would be for remodels and such so the road surfaces are good, as far as California roads go :D (as opposed to new construction which may have unpaved roads).

Any info, advice, accessory equipment that you can suggest to address this issue (or any other for that matter) is greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much again for bringing it up.

[Al Willits]

SF, I bet means SciFi...was thinking the same thing...:D

Even with the 2 car garage door and side door open, after running my Hybrid Delta saw I see sawdust in the air, some sort of blower exhausting would be nice even in your case, I run a 1/3hp furnace blower and it pulls most of it away from me and blows it outside.
You keep the mask on all the time in the trailer??? Probably not?

Al

[Lee DeRaud]

Mark, have you any idea how weird "I grew up in a body shop " sounds to a lifetime SF reader? So didja sell any really neat bodies? Could I get one?Contact igor@yethmarthter.com. :D