Sanding discs

[Dan Oelke]

Well I just got myself a 6" ROS (Rigid) and between that and a little project I have started I need to buy a bunch of 6" discs.

Now - my "little" project is to clean up and re-stain the deck. It has been long over due and I would like to sand it before sealing it. I can rent the U-Sand sander (http://www.u-sand.com/) from our local BORG and that looks like the ideal machine for me to avoid gouging the deck boards. The U-Sand sander has basically 4 ROS 6" pads under it. Home Depot sells discs for it, but they are priced at something like $6.50 for 4 discs (Norton - picture (http://www.nortonconsumer.com/Media/Documents/S0000000000000001032/02768%20U-Sand%206in-Floor%20Discs.jpg)) I think I can do better for price.

Now, the U-Sand sander doesn't have holes in their discs. My hand 6" sander of course does. So, assuming that I will be buying a pack of 10 or 50 discs and will have some left over, am I better off buying the hole or no-hole discs?

With no holes as needed by the U-sand sander when using the leftovers on my hand sander I'll have extra dust to deal with. With holey discs, when I put them on the U-sand sander there will be areas in their pads not covered by the disc - is this a problem?

Finally - what do you recommend for sand paper. Klingspor (http://www.woodworkingshop.com/)'s and Online Industrial Supply (http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/) have been recommended in ealier threads. Klingspors has down to 36 grit at $27/50 for Alumina Zirconia or AO-Stearate down to 60 grit at $20/50. Online Industrial Supply has their AO-Stearate down to 40 grit at $19/50. They also have Mirka Gold at $43/50 for 40 grit. It looks like they are pretty close on price for their own name AO-Stearate discs, but then there is the Alumina Zirconia and the "Mirka Gold" brand discs. Are they worth the extra money?

Finally - anyone who has sanded a deck - what grit might I need to start with? 36 or 40? 60? ???

Thanks for any and all help.

[Hoa Dinh]

I'd buy the ones with holes. The area not covered by the disc because of the holes is insignificant.

But if the ones without holes are (significantly) cheaper and if you already have a punch, buy them. It's simple to punch the holes. I just bought a Festool RO150 and just punch the holes in the Mirka sanding disks bought for a Ridgid ROS2610.

I don't know what grits to use, but if you decide to use 60-grit, Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223TC/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt/104-2049978-8281516?ie=UTF8) has the Mirka for $18.33/50.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If deck is face nailed, you will sand off rust resistant coating on nail heads. If you can, go under deck and pop up deck boards and turn them over. A sledge and a block of wood does this nicely. Then renail

[Michael Adelong]

Great idea, Bruce. Since you would be removing them to flip them over why not just set a lunchbox planer next to the deck so you can pop a board off, run it through the planer, and renail it in place? You might be able to skip sanding altogether if your blades are sharp.

Michael

[Marion Rood]

I've never used a sander like that, but I'd worry that the edges of the little pads would catch on boards. I have used a regular floor sander on deck--a lot of work. I sank all of the nails before I sanded. Edges cleaned up with small sander.
I recently used sander that had a 12x18 pad. I don't think it would work as the edges caught on heater vents and at $5.00 a sheet--not a good thing.

Good luck

[Marlow Wilson]

I agree with the catching issue. I've tried the various sanders had the best luck with 12x18" for light jobs and the tried, true and dangerous drum sander when a lot of removal is needed. What's on the deck?

Cheers,

Marlow

[Al Killian]

Why do you need to sand the deck first? Is this due to discoloring? If so they sell deck cleaner that will remove the discolored parts. Instead of going thru all that work.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Great idea, Bruce. Since you would be removing them to flip them over why not just set a lunchbox planer next to the deck so you can pop a board off, run it through the planer, and renail it in place? You might be able to skip sanding altogether if your blades are sharp.

Michael Most if not all deck boards will contain some embeded grit which is murder on planner blades. Bottom side will look just as good as day of installation, with exception of discoloration stripes where joists shielded them from the elements. Sunlight in the form of UV rays is what kills decks, not the moisture from rain and snow.