Freud FT3000, Ultimate Table Router?

[Jim Chilenski]

Does anyone have a Freud FT3000 yet? I have been considering a new router for use in a table and it seems like the FT3000 would be the perfect table router.

3 1/4 HP
Electronic variable speed control (8,000 to 21,000 rpm)
Above the table height adjustment and bit changing
Spindle lock for one wrench bit changes
1/2" and 1/4" collets
5-year warranty

Also, does anyone know who has them in stock?

Thanks,
Jim

[Charles McCracken]

Jim,

Due to production delays and high demand in Europe the FT3000 routers are still not available in the US. We will be showing a few samples of them at IWF and AFAIK we should be receiving in quantity within the month.

[Jim Chilenski]

Thanks Charles! I will be looking forward to hearing when they become available.

Jim

[scott spencer]

Jim,

Due to production delays and high demand in Europe the FT3000 routers are still not available in the US. We will be showing a few samples of them at IWF and AFAIK we should be receiving in quantity within the month.

Charles - Does the FT3000 have the above table height lock like the FT1700 has?

[Charles McCracken]

Charles - Does the FT3000 have the above table height lock like the FT1700 has?

Scott,

No, since it is a plunge they did not put the lock above the table. Maybe on a later version we can arrange that.

[Jim Chilenski]

Scott,

No, since it is a plunge they did not put the lock above the table. Maybe on a later version we can arrange that.

Charles,

On the Freud Tools web page in the May 16th 2006 press release,(http://www.freudtools.com/whats_new/rls37.htm


it states that the FT3000 has an "Auto Spindle Lock with extended spindle shaft for fast, easy, and safe one hand above table bit changes"

Are you saying that is incorrect?

Thanks,
Jim

[scott spencer]

Charles,

On the Freud Tools web page in the May 16th 2006 press release,(http://www.freudtools.com/whats_new/rls37.htm


it states that the FT3000 has an "Auto Spindle Lock with extended spindle shaft for fast, easy, and safe one hand above table bit changes"

Are you saying that is incorrect?

Thanks,
Jim

Jim - I think we're mentioning two different features. The FT1700 has an auto spindle lock, plus an above table height position lock that uses the height adjustment wrench as opposed to reaching underneath the table to lock it in place manually with a latch. The auto spindle lock is a thick spring loaded pin that slides into a whole in the spindle when it's raised fully and rotated slightly. The whole setup is pretty slick. I don't want to speak for Charles, but I think the latter feature is what is not available on FT3000, as that's the one I was asking about.

http://ec3.images-amazon.com/images/P/B000BVB1MO.01.PT02._SS400_SCLZZZZZZZ_V65935245_.jp g

[Charles McCracken]

Charles,

On the Freud Tools web page in the May 16th 2006 press release,(http://www.freudtools.com/whats_new/rls37.htm


it states that the FT3000 has an "Auto Spindle Lock with extended spindle shaft for fast, easy, and safe one hand above table bit changes"

Are you saying that is incorrect?

Thanks,
Jim

Jim,

Auto Spindle Lock means that when you raise the router to change the bit there is an automatic lock that engages the router shaft as soon as the collet goes above the table. This allows for one-handed bit changes. Scott was asking if there was also the ability to lock the router height from above the table like the FT1700VCEK has.

[Jim Chilenski]

Jim,

Auto Spindle Lock means that when you raise the router to change the bit there is an automatic lock that engages the router shaft as soon as the collet goes above the table. This allows for one-handed bit changes. Scott was asking if there was also the ability to lock the router height from above the table like the FT1700VCEK has.

Charles,

Thanks for the explaination. I mis-read what Scott was asking. I apologize.

Jim

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Take a look at the Triton. It's got the above table change and vari speed too. It's also got a nice winder and fine adj to eliminate the router lift.

The Trison isn't nearly as sophisticated as the others like Hitachi PC Bosch anf freud but at $190.00 ( the show price) it's not a bad deal.

I'd not reccommend the triton if you can't get the show price because of it's howling lack of sophistication.

Probably the worst aspect is the collet.
The other failings tend not to manifest in a table set up.

[Rob Will]

I just bought one of these from Amazon...not here yet.
For anyone interested, here's a .pdf file for the operator's manual on the new FT3000 router.
http://www.freud.ca/PDFs/FT3000Manual.pdf
Rob

[Steve Leverich]

Charles, I have a question regarding horsepower ratings - try as I might, when I do the math of 120 volts times 15 amps as specified in the 3000 manual, I come up with 2.1 horsepower CONSUMED - this doesn't even account for less than 100% efficiency, which no motor can ever achieve. So where are router manufacturers (not just Freud) getting the ridiculous claims of over 3 horsepower on a typically 15 amp, 120 volt circuit? Did someone re-discover the over-inflated ways of power ratings that were common for stereo manufacturers in the '70's, or what?

I'm looking seriously at the 3000 for use in a 3rd router table for raised panels/finger jointing, but it will be in a cast iron table with no provision for a separate lift so the above-table features are a definite plus - but I'd still like to know what kinda magic it takes to get over 3 horsepower out of 15 amps on 120 VAC - thanks... Steve

[Charles McCracken]

Steve,

The horsepower rating is "Maximum Developed Horsepower" and is really only for comparison. The practice of using it to spec a motor's power predates me but now it would be difficult for a manufacturer to not use it. In my opinion, a far better way to judge a universal motor's power is by watts.

[Rob Will]

Amazon shipped mine yesterday.

Rob

[Mark Ball]

OK guys

I was reading this post, I have the 1700VCEK in my router table, love the above the table height and bit changing capabilities, but am confused as to the discussion of being able to lock the height above the table also? I thought you had to reach underneath and open and close the latch. How does the height changing wrench lock the height also?

Thanks

[Brad Evans]

Charles, I have a question regarding horsepower ratings - try as I might, when I do the math of 120 volts times 15 amps as specified in the 3000 manual, I come up with 2.1 horsepower CONSUMED - this doesn't even account for less than 100% efficiency, which no motor can ever achieve. So where are router manufacturers (not just Freud) getting the ridiculous claims of over 3 horsepower on a typically 15 amp, 120 volt circuit? Did someone re-discover the over-inflated ways of power ratings that were common for stereo manufacturers in the '70's, or what?

...

... Steve


And how bout shop vacs with 5 & 6 HP ratings! Maybe I should remove their motor (which probably weighs a couple pounds) and strap it in my Unisaw - which somehow only manages 3 HP from a motor that's probably close to 100 pounds...

[Charles McCracken]

Mark,

There is a hole through the base (on the opposite side from the the height adjustment hole) which is the access to the height lock. You will need to drill a corresponding hole in the insert plate. Let me know if you need a template and I will email it to you.

[Steve Leverich]

Brad, I hear ya; saw a 120 volt "toy" air compressor in a store a while back that was rated 6 horsepower - if that was HONEST horsepower (about 9-10 amps per hp at 120 volts) the power cord would need to be #6 copper - and that's assuming you could get a 60 amp 120 volt breaker, etc :eek:

The label DID say "maximum" so I'm assuming they use a peak-reading clamp-on ammeter, take the reading when the compressor tries to start, multiply that by 120 volts, divide by 746 (# of watts in a horsepower, electrically) and round that # UP to the nearest whole number :rolleyes:

Funny, there's prob'ly enough metal in the 5 horse Baldor on my 80 gallon compressor to build 4 of those "6 horse" motors... Steve

[Joe Cipriano]

Question from a new guy (both to this site and to woodworking) re: HP/watt requirements:

I was seriously looking at the Freud 1702 for use as both a table mount and handheld (using the included plunge base), but have read in various places that larger panel raising bits (3" +) should really be run on larger (3 "HP" or greater) routers. The 3000 fits that bill fine, but is almost $100 more expensive. I also feel (probably erroneously...) that the lower power 1702 might be easier to use handheld than the 3000. Can't afford 2 routers at this time - if I could, I'd probably stick the 3000 in the table permanently, and use the 1702 for hand work.
Will the 1702 handle the big panel raising bits when table mounted (assuming I'm not trying to hog out the entire profile in one pass...), or am I asking for trouble? Any advice appreciated.

[Rob Will]

My FT3000 arrived tonight. Not having owned a 3hp router before, my first impression was "this thing is a hoss".

After a few minutes of checking out all the well integrated features, I started to become really impressed. A lot of thought has gone into the design of this router. It feels solid and looks good.

So picture this: My wife is fixing dinner and I'm sitting at the table with the new router in hand.......I can't stand it any longer........I must plug this thing in and see what it sounds like!!!!!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

How sweet it is. On low speed, this thing sounds like my mom's sewing machine! Well allmost.;) The higher speeds do make more noise but it still sounds ok. I did not even get the usual dirty look:mad: for running power tools at the table. (This thread is about "table routing" is it not?):rolleyes:

Seriously, I don't know much about "table routing" but it looks like it will work really well. The above table adjustment tool is a bit hard to grip but they probably did that so you don't get too much leverage on it.

In conclusion, my favorite parts of this router are the clean styling and excellent ergonomics. I really like big side handles with a trigger switch.

Took it out to the shop and did a few pattern cuts in 5/4 hard maple with a new spiral bit. Extra Smooth !! :cool: :D

Rob

[Mike Henderson]

Question from a new guy (both to this site and to woodworking) re: HP/watt requirements:

I was seriously looking at the Freud 1702 for use as both a table mount and handheld (using the included plunge base), but have read in various places that larger panel raising bits (3" +) should really be run on larger (3 "HP" or greater) routers. The 3000 fits that bill fine, but is almost $100 more expensive. I also feel (probably erroneously...) that the lower power 1702 might be easier to use handheld than the 3000. Can't afford 2 routers at this time - if I could, I'd probably stick the 3000 in the table permanently, and use the 1702 for hand work.
Will the 1702 handle the big panel raising bits when table mounted (assuming I'm not trying to hog out the entire profile in one pass...), or am I asking for trouble? Any advice appreciated.

Welcome Joe.

I've done panel raising with a PC 890 router (2.25HP) without any trouble. Just take small cuts, maybe three passes total. If you're doing production work that's too slow but if you're a hobbyst the lower HP will work fine. Later you can get a big router if you find you need it.

But I, too, find the big 3HP routers hard to operate hand held - for me, they're best in a table.

Mike

[Rob Will]

Mike is right.

I wish they would put those same nice handles and switch location on a small router.

Rob

[Joe Cipriano]

Welcome Joe.

I've done panel raising with a PC 890 router (2.25HP) without any trouble. Just take small cuts, maybe three passes total. If you're doing production work that's too slow but if you're a hobbyst the lower HP will work fine. Later you can get a big router if you find you need it.

But I, too, find the big 3HP routers hard to operate hand held - for me, they're best in a table.

Mike

Mike:

Thanks much, for both the welcome and the information. Looks like the 1702 will be an early Christmas gift to me...:D

Time to figure out which table now...

[Mike Henderson]

Mike:

Thanks much, for both the welcome and the information. Looks like the 1702 will be an early Christmas gift to me...:D

Time to figure out which table now...
A router table is very easy to make. Look into making your own before you pay big dollars for a commercial one. If you have limited space, turn one wing of your table saw into a router "table". If you're working alone, you can only do one thing at a time anyway.

Mike

[Joe Cipriano]

A router table is very easy to make. Look into making your own before you pay big dollars for a commercial one. If you have limited space, turn one wing of your table saw into a router "table". If you're working alone, you can only do one thing at a time anyway.

Mike

Hmmm... I've a slab of Corian hanging around somewhere in the basement that should be big enough. Are there router bits readily available that can handle Corian?

Apologies for hijacking the thread - perhaps I should start a new one...

[Mike Henderson]

Hmmm... I've a slab of Corian hanging around somewhere in the basement that should be big enough. Are there router bits readily available that can handle Corian?

Apologies for hijacking the thread - perhaps I should start a new one...
Sure - you can work corian with any carbide bit. That's what the people who do counter tops use to cut and shape corian (solid surface material).

Corian will work, but many other things will also work. I used mdf with plastic laminate over it. But plain mdf would also work - the laminate just keep it cleaner.

But the corian would be good. Just make sure you support it well so it it's flat and stays flat.

I'm taking a class in solid surface fabrication right now. If you've never worked it and have some questions, PM me.

Mike

[Joe Cipriano]

Sure - you can work corian with any carbide bit. That's what the people who do counter tops use to cut and shape corian (solid surface material).

Corian will work, but many other things will also work. I used mdf with plastic laminate over it. But plain mdf would also work - the laminate just keep it cleaner.

But the corian would be good. Just make sure you support it well so it it's flat and stays flat.

I'm taking a class in solid surface fabrication right now. If you've never worked it and have some questions, PM me.

Mike

Thanks. If I go that route, I'll let you know. My basement shop runs a little damp, so any MDF I expect to remain flat will probably need to be plastic laminated.

I really want this table...
http://www.woodpeck.com/lsrspk3.html
...but that's just way too much money right now.

I can always dream...;)

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks. If I go that route, I'll let you know. My basement shop runs a little damp, so any MDF I expect to remain flat will probably need to be plastic laminated.

I really want this table...
http://www.woodpeck.com/lsrspk3.html
...but that's just way too much money right now.

I can always dream...;)
You don't say what your level of expertise is, Joe, but you can do an awful lot with significantly less than that table and fence system. The more experience I gain, I find that simple things work best.

All you need for a router table is a flat bed, a way to support your router (which can be a plate or you can attach it directly to the bottom of the table), and a fence. The fence is usually a straight board (run it on a jointer) maybe two or three inches thick with a cutout for the place where the bit goes. You can cut one side for small bits and the other side for large bits. You attach the fence to the table with standard clamps.

You can get a lot of work done with that, and I'll bet that many (most) of the people in this forum have a setup like this.

Go inexpensive first and if you find you need more later, then spend the money. Once you spend the money and then find you don't need it, the money is tied up.

Mike

[Joe Cipriano]

You don't say what your level of expertise is, Joe, but you can do an awful lot with significantly less than that table and fence system. The more experience I gain, I find that simple things work best.

Not much, at least with power tools. Everything I've done has been with dovetail saws, chisels, miter boxes, etc. I'm deperately trying to join the 21st century, as it were...;)


All you need for a router table is a flat bed, a way to support your router (which can be a plate or you can attach it directly to the bottom of the table), and a fence. The fence is usually a straight board (run it on a jointer) maybe two or three inches thick with a cutout for the place where the bit goes. You can cut one side for small bits and the other side for large bits. You attach the fence to the table with standard clamps.

You can get a lot of work done with that, and I'll bet that many (most) of the people in this forum have a setup like this.

Go inexpensive first and if you find you need more later, then spend the money. Once you spend the money and then find you don't need it, the money is tied up.

Mike

Agreed. I generally don't spend money unless it's absolutely necessary. Didn't say I was buying that table/fence combo - but if one showed up, say, under the tree Christmas morning, I wouldn't be sending it back...;)

I DO like that Incra LS setup, though - especially the dovetail/template capabilities. Don't know if it would compare to a Leigh D4R in that capacity - but it'll do a lot more than just dovetails.

Again - thanks for the advice; it is appreciated.

[Curt Harms]

A router table is very easy to make. Look into making your own before you pay big dollars for a commercial one. If you have limited space, turn one wing of your table saw into a router "table". If you're working alone, you can only do one thing at a time anyway.

Mike

Yup, and think about how to build a second fence for the router extension. One big knock on saw mounted router tables is having to move the table saw fence in order to use the fence with the router table. I built a second fence so can set the saw rip fence up to 12" from the blade and still leave the router table fence set up. If I want to rip more than 12" so so I still need to remove the router fence but most of my ripping is rail and style sized pieces when using the router at the same time. Works for me.

Curt

[Bob Heathcock]

Jim,

Due to production delays and high demand in Europe the FT3000 routers are still not available in the US. We will be showing a few samples of them at IWF and AFAIK we should be receiving in quantity within the month.
Charles - I purchased an FT3000 for use in my router table but there was not a template for drilling the holes. Does Freud have a download of the template - I couldn't find it.

[Charles McCracken]

Bob,

Sorry to hear the template was not included. I'll be happy to email a PDF file if you will PM or email me through my profile with your address.

[Wade Lippman]

Mine was a separate sheet of paper stuck in with the parts list. I didn't find it until I was done. No real need for it, you just trace the baseplate.