Deirdre Saoirse Moen
08-14-2006, 8:08 PM
Link to diagram of horse (http://flickr.com/photos/muhe-e/177974362/in/set-72157594183715359/). Full article and pics can be obtained from Fine Woodworking's online site.
1) The FWW article shows 9 zigzags on the ratchet riser. Don't take this too literally. Probably a better number is 18 of them, approx. 3/8" high, and as deep as the right triangle would permit. Shorter and the key can't lock in. Taller and the adjustment is too coarse.
2) The curve on the front of the treadle is for clearance for curved work. Some people didn't cut it out, and it didn't seem to cause them any trouble. Yet.
3) Threaded rod can be used in all joints if you want to be able to disassemble the horse. I used 3/8", but I think a bigger rod would be better. Drill a second hole so the nuts can be inset and the horse's side remains flush. Threaded rod is actually a great choice for the treadle, as I discovered the hard way. Oops.
4) There is leather on the lower jaw so that the work doesn't slide out and drop to the floor. DAMHIKT.
5) Cut the upper jaw ever so slightly wider than the width of the body so you can use UHMW attached to the inside of the treadle so it slides against the body without friction.
6) You can punt on the seat at first. I used a yoga bolster.
7) Vegetable-tanned leather is less likely to stain your work.
8) Using naugahyde may earn you a sneer from the instructor. :)
9) Make the treadle bar long enough so that you can use it with either your right or left foot -- the legs can get tired.
10) 5/8" or 3/4" is a good dowel diameter (or threaded rod thickness) for pretty much all the body parts.
11) I don't believe this is stated in the article (been a couple weeks since I last re-read it), but the upper jaw's dowel should be in line with your elbow when you're sitting on it.
12) Boggs has a hang hook for his drawknife on the right rear leg. We discovered this when he instinctively put his drawknife there and it clattered to the floor. Still, this seems to be a good way to keep a drawknife out of harm's way (put the blade so it's away from your body).
13) Hickory bark shavings (trimmed from the side for a tapered seat) make a cute tail.
1) The FWW article shows 9 zigzags on the ratchet riser. Don't take this too literally. Probably a better number is 18 of them, approx. 3/8" high, and as deep as the right triangle would permit. Shorter and the key can't lock in. Taller and the adjustment is too coarse.
2) The curve on the front of the treadle is for clearance for curved work. Some people didn't cut it out, and it didn't seem to cause them any trouble. Yet.
3) Threaded rod can be used in all joints if you want to be able to disassemble the horse. I used 3/8", but I think a bigger rod would be better. Drill a second hole so the nuts can be inset and the horse's side remains flush. Threaded rod is actually a great choice for the treadle, as I discovered the hard way. Oops.
4) There is leather on the lower jaw so that the work doesn't slide out and drop to the floor. DAMHIKT.
5) Cut the upper jaw ever so slightly wider than the width of the body so you can use UHMW attached to the inside of the treadle so it slides against the body without friction.
6) You can punt on the seat at first. I used a yoga bolster.
7) Vegetable-tanned leather is less likely to stain your work.
8) Using naugahyde may earn you a sneer from the instructor. :)
9) Make the treadle bar long enough so that you can use it with either your right or left foot -- the legs can get tired.
10) 5/8" or 3/4" is a good dowel diameter (or threaded rod thickness) for pretty much all the body parts.
11) I don't believe this is stated in the article (been a couple weeks since I last re-read it), but the upper jaw's dowel should be in line with your elbow when you're sitting on it.
12) Boggs has a hang hook for his drawknife on the right rear leg. We discovered this when he instinctively put his drawknife there and it clattered to the floor. Still, this seems to be a good way to keep a drawknife out of harm's way (put the blade so it's away from your body).
13) Hickory bark shavings (trimmed from the side for a tapered seat) make a cute tail.