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Steve Roxberg
08-14-2006, 6:28 PM
The manual for my 1080 says to cut the splinter guard for the first time at full speed on a board while making a shallow 3mm cut.

The manual that came with my saw doesn't mention cutting the splinter guard on the rail at all.

A manual I downloaded says to cut the splinter guard suspended in the air, with a shallow cut at the slowest speed.

So I'm confusted :confused:

Any recommendations or am I way overthinking this?

Chris Barton
08-14-2006, 6:37 PM
On the new saws there is a splinter guard on the saw body and one on the giude rail. I know the one on the rail should be on top of a piece of wood when you make the cut (the shallow 3 mm cut). The other probably refers to the small green splinter guard on the outboard side of the saw which shold probably be done in the air, unsupported at low speed.

Dave Falkenstein
08-15-2006, 10:23 AM
This topic was discussed at the Festool Owners Group on Yahoo a while back. As I recall, the concensus was to cut the guide rail splinter guard with the circular saw on slow speed. It works fine for me using slow speed.

Rick Christopherson
08-15-2006, 3:24 PM
The information you found in the new downloaded version of the manual supercedes the information found in any other manual (assuming you downloaded the full-color PDF file from my site or Bob Marino's mirror copy). http://waterfront-woods.home.att.net/festool/TS55EQ.pdf (http://waterfront-woods.home.att.net/festool/TS55EQ.pdf)

The speed of the blade is not quite so important, but having the blade set to a shallow depth is. The new manual contains a photograph to explain this best.

Because the blade is cutting on the up-stroke, it is not necessary to have the splinter guard supported from below by placing it on a scrap piece of wood. This is also the reason why the photgraph shows the splinter guard in the center of the teeth when being cut.