6" disconnect, of sorts.

[Jim O'Dell]

I've searched the archives, and saw a blast gate by Mark Duksta that might be adaptable for what I need. I have a 6" PVC drop from the main to the TS in the middle of the shop that I need to be able to disconnect from the system and move during hail storms to be able to get my 3/4 ton van under cover (won't fit under the opening for the garage). I wish the schedule 40 disconnects for the 1 1/2" pipe was available in 6", but it would probably be outrageous price wise. Simple collar screw outside the pipe to join the 2 pieces, male and female, and an O-ring to seal it off. Works great on my high pressure sprinkler pump. I built a sled, if you will, today out of some scrap that I've attached 2 wheels off my dad's old RAS that I butchered to accept a Herc-U-Lift, so that when disconnected I can use the down drop pipe as the Johnson Bar, tilt the unit back and roll it out of the way.
Has anyone run into a need for something like this and found something that would work? Some thing(s) that didn't work?:D I'm thinking about 2 pieces of 3/4 melamine, with 1/4" melamine or similar as a spacer and for the blast gate. I really like the blast gates that have the solid side, and the side with the matching hole so debris won't get into the channel as easily, clogging up the blast gate operation.
Will it matter that this wouldn't be a perfect seal? I know none of the blast gates are, so it wouldn't be any big loss.
As always, any ideas would be appreciated! Jim.

[Doug Shepard]

I'll be watching to see what you come up with. I've also got to do removable downpipes from the rafters but had pretty much settled on using that Nordfab stuff to do it. It's sure to be $$$ but I haven't stumbled across anything better or less money.

[Ben Grunow]

You are looking for a quick diconnect for you 6" DC drop to your TS, right?

Would a 6" rubber fernco coupling do the trick? Sounds like occasional use. You could probably install it with one hose clamp on the upper pipe (the staionary one) and just pull the pipe out when the saw has to be moved. Might be nice and quick. I hope I understood your question.

[glenn bradley]

Shop made 6" blast gates:

http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/mag_cyclone/ductwork.shtml

and another"

http://home.comcast.net/~hypot/Projects/BGs.htm

[Jim O'Dell]

Ben, that's a very good idea. I don't know why I didn't think of it myself. I had thought about using one if I needed to take the cyclone body down, that I'd cut the inlet pipe and put it back together with one of these, but hadn't thought about it for this situation. I might try to build the blast gate that will separate with 4 bolts and t-nuts first, just so it would serve double purpose. But, I might come back to this if I'm not happy with the outcome.
Glenn, thanks for the sites. They will come in handy as I try to build the contraption I'm thinking of. I will have to modify them so that it would serve the dual purpose of the disconnect, but some good info there to start with.
Doug, I'll try to take some during, and after shots for you, but don't hold your breath. It might be a couple weeks. I've got computer parts coming in by Wed. to do a total upgrade on TLOML's computer. It will probably keep me very busy next weekend, unless it goes together right the first time, and no conflicts, hardware or software....nah, that will never happen! Jim.

[Mark Duksta]

Jim,

The blast gates I made are "quick disconnect". The ends of the flex hose have a piece of 6" pipe (male end) that fits into the blast gate (female end). It's a friction fit. I found if you use the white S&D pipe, it's a tighter fit in the coupling then the green pipe is. I had to shim the green pipe with a piece of aluminum tape.

The side of the blast gate that is closed is held in place with a screw so if the gate gets clogged it can be easily cleaned. I've only had to clean one of the gates once. I didn't have enough space to use the gate that passes all the way through.

Mark Duksta

[Matt Meiser]

For my band saw and drum sander I did something similar to what Mark suggested, only with 4". The fit of a coupler over the pipe is tight enough to seal good enough without caulk. I have mine between the machine and blast gate though.