Chris Barton
08-13-2006, 3:48 PM
So, I have been asked about sharpening without a jig and how to do it and I will do my best to explain it here. First, I am sorry about the accompaning pictures, I should fire my film crew!:eek: But, wait a minute, I am the film crew!
First, work on getting the general shape the way you want it and don't worry too much about taking off too much material, it's very hard to graind away too much. You can mark a curved line along the skew approximating the shape you want to achieve using a magic marker. Then the first "trick" to free hand sharpening; use the tool rest as a place to rest your hand, not the tool. Don't worry, the sparks that fly from the steel are not hot enough to burn you, I hardly feel them at all. Second "trick" is to go lightly and use a very light touch. Remember, only the first millimeter or so is the actual cutting edge of the tool, the rest is the bevel that rides on the wood while cutting and it doesn't cut so it doesn't need to be sharp. Just try to avoid large "facets" or flat spots that might bump around. Third "trick" is to rehearse the movement with the grinder off and the wheel stationary. That way you know how you will have to move to put a clean and smooth adge on the tool. Lastly, turn on the grinder and make the sharpening pass using only light pressure and focusing on sharpening only about a 1-2 mm wide section along the radius of the skew. You will be surprised how easy this is.
Here are some pictures that attempt to show the hand positions and sweeping motion. Realize I had to take the pictures with one hand while holding the skew with the other and I am clumbsier than a sack full of left handed scissors. If I can do this, anyone with two hands can do it too. Lastly, I am posting a picture of the larger skew that (kind of) shows the cutting edge relative to the bevel. For some reason my camera doesn't like to take pictures of shiny stuff too close up.
First, work on getting the general shape the way you want it and don't worry too much about taking off too much material, it's very hard to graind away too much. You can mark a curved line along the skew approximating the shape you want to achieve using a magic marker. Then the first "trick" to free hand sharpening; use the tool rest as a place to rest your hand, not the tool. Don't worry, the sparks that fly from the steel are not hot enough to burn you, I hardly feel them at all. Second "trick" is to go lightly and use a very light touch. Remember, only the first millimeter or so is the actual cutting edge of the tool, the rest is the bevel that rides on the wood while cutting and it doesn't cut so it doesn't need to be sharp. Just try to avoid large "facets" or flat spots that might bump around. Third "trick" is to rehearse the movement with the grinder off and the wheel stationary. That way you know how you will have to move to put a clean and smooth adge on the tool. Lastly, turn on the grinder and make the sharpening pass using only light pressure and focusing on sharpening only about a 1-2 mm wide section along the radius of the skew. You will be surprised how easy this is.
Here are some pictures that attempt to show the hand positions and sweeping motion. Realize I had to take the pictures with one hand while holding the skew with the other and I am clumbsier than a sack full of left handed scissors. If I can do this, anyone with two hands can do it too. Lastly, I am posting a picture of the larger skew that (kind of) shows the cutting edge relative to the bevel. For some reason my camera doesn't like to take pictures of shiny stuff too close up.