The Taming of the Skew: Part 1

[Chris Barton]

Here is my first tip about using and mastering a skew. And, by the way, I am certainly not trying to come across as an expert here, just trying to be helpfull. In the attached picture below you see 3 skews. The one on the right is essentially untouched from its purchase state. The other two are very clearly different and look like the Alan Lacer brand with radiused cutting surfaces. At first, I tried to use my skews as they came from the point of purchase and did mostly poorly because of catches. And, as delivered they are designed to do just that. With a strait cutting surface you have less linear surface area to work with and two fairly acute angles that are just begging to dig into a spindle moving at warp speed.

There are two solutions to this problem. The first is to go out and dump a bunch of money on an Alan Lacer skew, which is a great tool. The second (and certainly my approach) is to make your skew look like the Lacer model using your trusty grinder. It took me about 10 minutes of methodical grinding to create the general shape and then to put a good edge on the tool. The radius cutting edge gives you more cutting surface and completely eliminates one of the catch points. I learned to do this without a jig and it is fairly simple (PS: once you learn to grind without a jig your turning life will change, it's a liberating experience). A light touch and repetitive motion is all it takes. I reshaped mine using a slow speed grinder and a 120 grit wheel. Don't worry about "de-tempering" your HSS tools. Unless you hold it steady in one place until you get a cherry red glow it is impossible to do.

Tomorrow: Taming of The Skew Part 2

[Bob Noles]

Great tutorial Chris and so much to be learned about the skew. I for one appreciate these type of threads so much. Please keep it coming and perhaps elaborate on your freehand sharpening technique with some pictures at the grinder if possible.

[Chris Barton]

Great tutorial Chris and so much to be learned about the skew. I for one appreciate these type of threads so much. Please keep it coming and perhaps elaborate on your freehand sharpening technique with some pictures at the grinder if possible.

Hi Bob,

That will be part of my next installment. Thanks for the kind words.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Chris I have mine ground like Lacer's but I think the tool is to light. It is from PSI. I used the big Lacer skew when at Woodcraft in Richmond, Virginia and liked the way it handled. I like the big heavy feel of it and you can do some mighty small stuff even with the big one. Maybe it is just me but I felt I had better control with it. I am taking a serious look at them.

Thanks for the tutorial. Always like to learn something new.

[Bart Leetch]

I did I did see a putty tat. Ahem I mean actually:rolleyes: I can accidentally make somethin close to right even before I know that I'll be turning pens with it. I have a narrow skew & a wide skew that are already starting to look like that. I had tried to sharpen them in the past even though the type of turning (exploded) I do doesn't require a skew. No matter how skewed it :) :eek: is.

[Claude Arragon]

That is the type of skew I normaly use, an oval skew.
is it ok for your contest?
http://www.la-truciolara.eu/Immages/scalpello_ovale2%20copy.jpg

[Chris Barton]

That is the type of skew I normaly use, an oval skew.
is it ok for your contest?
http://www.la-truciolara.eu/Immages/scalpello_ovale2%20copy.jpg

That will be fine!

[Corey Hallagan]

I don't understand if you have a radius edge skew, why can't the skew be sharpenedon the wolvering using the regular jig instead of free handing?

Corey

[Chris Barton]

Hi Corey,

I really don't know how the skew jig with the Wolverine would work with a radiused skew. As I see it, this jig is designed to deliver a strait edge at about a 30* angle to the body of the tool. To make the radius edge you have to sweep the rear of the handle in an arc to achieve the sharpening of the skew along the radius edge. Am I missing something?

[Andy Hoyt]

Corey - using the wolverine - or any other - system (with or without a skew sharpening accessory) puts the tail end of the handle in a fixed location. And with a grinding wheel thickness of 1" you won't get anything other than a straight edge. Well, maybe a tiny radius - but nothing of value.

Whereas, if you free-hand it on a platform you can swing the tail end of the handle side to side creating the radiused edge.

Note getting a radiused edge on a round or oval skew aint gonna happen because swinging those skews side to side while maintaining a consistent "side of the tool" to the platform is nigh on impossible. Which is why Mr. Lacer's skews are flatsided.

[Chris Barton]

Note getting a radiused edge on a round or oval skew aint gonna happen because swinging those skews side to side while maintaining a consistent "side of the tool" to the platform is nigh on impossible. Which is why Mr. Lacer's skews are flatsided.

I beg to differ dear friend, both of the radiused skews in my post at the top are oval skews. It just takes a special touch!

[Corey Hallagan]

I got yah now. Thanks. I have to think about this one. Might try grinding one like this myself just for giggles.

Corey

[Andy Hoyt]

Well, I was speaking from my experience. And for me "nigh on impossible" speaks to "that special touch" which I have never possessed.

Oh I can do it all right, but maintaining the tool in the right perspective to achieve and maintain a consistent bevel is the part that caused me to drop the notion on all but flat sided skews.

[Chris Barton]

Since I realized that I will likely have to hit the road for the next few days (damn job!) I went ahead and made the next 2 installments of the taming of the skew and will post the first in a few minutes since I will not have time tomorrow...