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Jeff Morgan
08-12-2006, 6:45 PM
I decided to try something a little more challenging than the shooting
board I posted last week. It is a coffee table that I plan to build this
winter. I wanted to attach the sketchup model but it is too large
(around 107K). What techniques can be used to reduce the size of
the model?

For those of you that would like to see an image of the work I am
attaching a few.

-Jeff

Brian Triplett
08-12-2006, 7:11 PM
Jeff,

Nice job, if you are exporting to a 2D graphic, there is an option button at bottom right hand corner. You can change the pixel sizes to reduce the file size. Also you can adjust the jpeg compression. One comment about your model, if you take your wood material to a photo editing software and make a copy of it and turn 90 degrees you can make your stretcher look more realistic. You can also right click on the material and choose texture / position. Then click on the green button to rotate that surface. Just my two cents.

Brian

Jeff Morgan
08-12-2006, 7:17 PM
Nice job,

Thanks :)



if you are exporting to a 2D graphic, there is an option button at bottom right hand corner. You can change the pixel sizes to reduce the file size. Also you can adjust the jpeg compression.

I was hoping to get info on how to reduce the size of the sketchup model
itself. I was able to reduce the images by converting them to jpegs.



One comment about your model, if you take your wood material to a photo editing software and make a copy of it and turn 90 degrees you can make your stretcher look more realistic. You can also right click on the material and choose texture / position. Then click on the green button to rotate that surface. Just my two cents.
Brian
Great feedback. Thanks!

Jeff Morgan
08-12-2006, 7:29 PM
I decided to try something a little more challenging than the shooting
board I posted last week. It is a coffee table that I plan to build this
winter. I wanted to attach the sketchup model but it is too large
(around 107K). What techniques can be used to reduce the size of
the model?


I was able to reduce the size by removing materials from the materials
dialog in the 'In Model' tab that were not being used. Therefore I am
attaching the sketchup model. Please feel free to be as critical as
you want with the model as I am just learning and am looking for
as much constructive feedback as possible.

Thanks
-Jeff

Todd Burch
08-12-2006, 8:14 PM
Hi Jeff.

I would expect the bottom shelf to sag some over time, at 33"+ inches wide.

On the end leg/rail assemblies, the "balusters" were a bit short, but since they are a component (good job), making one the right height means they all become the right height.

The lower rails are inset slightly (closer to each other) more than the upper rails (end to end). This causes the "balusters" to not line up properly where they meet the bottom of the top rail (up under the table top - not visible from typicaly viewing angles).

You've spaced the "balusters" at roughly 1/2". Good luck applying a finish to them.

My taste would have put the bevel on the underside of the lipped top.

I'm guessing this will get a piece of glass inset into the top?

To get proper grain direction on the applied textures, you can edit the material and rotate it 90 degrees and save as a new texture. It gives a better look to the pieces (and doesn't remind me of a bad plastic laminate job!).

Not bad for a second model (and yes, I cut you no slack!)

Todd

Jeff Morgan
08-12-2006, 8:39 PM
I would expect the bottom shelf to sag some over time, at 33"+ inches wide.

Point well taken. What can be done to reduce the sag?



On the end leg/rail assemblies, the "balusters" were a bit short, but since they are a component (good job), making one the right height means they all become the right height.

How can I select just the spindle component and change its' size? When
I try to select it the entire 'table end' component is selected. Should I
explode the component and then rebuild them once the editing is complete?



The lower rails are inset slightly (closer to each other) more than the upper rails (end to end). This causes the "balusters" to not line up properly where they meet the bottom of the top rail (up under the table top - not visible from typicaly viewing angles).

Same question, how do you edit one element in a 'super' component?



You've spaced the "balusters" at roughly 1/2". Good luck applying a finish to them.

I planned to finish them prior to glue-up.



My taste would have put the bevel on the underside of the lipped top.

You will have to take this one up with my wife. I built a table for my
grandparents many years ago and placed a bevel on the top of the
table. She has loved that table (and look) ever since.



I'm guessing this will get a piece of glass inset into the top?

yeap



To get proper grain direction on the applied textures, you can edit the material and rotate it 90 degrees and save as a new texture. It gives a better look to the pieces (and doesn't remind me of a bad plastic laminate job!).

I will do this in my next model (which I have just started now).



Not bad for a second model (and yes, I cut you no slack!)

That is what I asked for and thanks alot

-Jeff

Dave Richards
08-12-2006, 11:00 PM
How about this? I about cut it in half by making copies of components. In reality there only 8 distinct components in the model. All the other elements are copies of one of those 8.

Nice model by the way. Good job for your second try.

Jeff Morgan
08-13-2006, 8:12 PM
Not bad for a second model (and yes, I cut you no slack!)
Todd

Thanks for the input Todd (and the reduced size model Dave). I
think I have addressed all of the issues you pointed out except
the sagging shelf. I am attaching the update here. I look forward
to any additional input on the sketchup work or the design of
the table.

-Jeff

Dave Richards
08-13-2006, 8:56 PM
Jeff, I like the table. I found a couple of nit pick things that I fixed. They were overlapping parts or gaps between parts. I expect they were mostly due to your precision being set to 1/16". I also added a couple of stiffening battens underneath as an example of a way to keep the shelf from sagging. You could also make it from thicker stock and put a wide bevel on the under side to keep it looking thin.

Dave Richards
08-13-2006, 9:05 PM
Just for fun I reduced the file size a bit more. 10 extra credit points if you can tell me how I did it. ;)

Jeff Morgan
08-14-2006, 7:11 AM
Just for fun I reduced the file size a bit more. 10 extra credit points if you can tell me how I did it. ;)

But I love my fake wood look!!!

-Jeff

Dave Richards
08-14-2006, 8:14 AM
Your fake wood is still there. I just forgot to save the file with it displayed. You can click on the Textured Display button to get it back. That wasn't how I reduced the file size, though. ;)

Jeff Morgan
08-14-2006, 12:53 PM
Jeff, I like the table. I found a couple of nit pick things that I fixed. They were overlapping parts or gaps between parts. I expect they were mostly due to your precision being set to 1/16".

Can you point out specifically where these overlapping parts and gaps were?
I want to learn from my mistakes.

-Jeff

Dave Richards
08-14-2006, 1:08 PM
For an overlap, look at the corner of the top frame. Zoom in near where the blue axis comes out the top. You'll see two lines running along parallel.

For the gaps, look at the ends of the shelf where they almost meet the lower rails of the legs.

I expect these issues are due to the lack of precision in your drawing because the Precision was set to 1/16". Look at Window>Model Info>Units.

BTW, did you find what I did to reduce the file size in my last version of the model? And what do you think of those cleats on the underside of the shelf?

Jeff Morgan
08-14-2006, 1:20 PM
For an overlap, look at the corner of the top frame. Zoom in near where the blue axis comes out the top. You'll see two lines running along parallel.

For the gaps, look at the ends of the shelf where they almost meet the lower rails of the legs.

I found them. Thanks for point them out.



BTW, did you find what I did to reduce the file size in my last version of the model?

Not yet. I really haven't had the time to look for it.



And what do you think of those cleats on the underside of the shelf?
That was nice. I was already working on something similar. I am
attaching my solution to the sagging problem. I think it also might
address cupping across the shelf. What do you think?

-Jeff

Dave Richards
08-14-2006, 2:35 PM
I think your solution is good. It also makes for an easy way to attach the shelf to the legs.