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Doug Mason
08-11-2006, 4:11 PM
I have a Grixxly 1023 table saw and use a CV cyclone with an overam gaurd that provides good dust pick-up on top. But the dust collection in the cabinet is where my problem lies; in that by just sticking a 5' flex hose inside via a port doesn't work very well. What I think needs to be done is to attach some HVAC (or some type of sheet metal) right snug below the blade--with the flex hose attached--so that the dust falls right into it and is sucked away. As it is, it just accumulates and leaks out of the cabinet where there are open spaces (such as the wheels to adjust the blade angle). Anyone have pictures/idea's of a similar set-up.

Steve Clardy
08-11-2006, 5:52 PM
Do you have a motor cover on it?

I put a cover on mine.
Under the table, between the stand and top, I stuffed insulation in the gaps.

Are you hooked up to the side of the cabinet?

Mine had a louvered vent on the left side.
I removed that, made my connection there.

Doug Mason
08-11-2006, 6:37 PM
Yes--I have a motor cover (right-tilt saw). The hose runs into the side (I cut it from 4 to 6 inches wide). I don't have the gaps filled--your putting insulation in there is a good idea--in that it would make the cabinet more air-tight--along with the flexibility of the insulation.

Steve Clardy
08-11-2006, 6:47 PM
Do you have a vent in your motor cover?
I slotted mine, so air could travel through there to the left, thus letting it pick up the dust that collects in the bottom of the cabinet.

Jeff Horton
08-11-2006, 7:00 PM
--your putting insulation in there is a good idea--in that it would make the cabinet more air-tight--along with the flexibility of the insulation.

You don't want the cabinet air tight. Remember that all the air you 'suck' out has to be replaced. Seal it too tight and you could actually pull less air through. If you got it tight enough (and I doubt you actually could) and the only air coming in was through the throat plate you could suck the wood down where it wouldn't slide. :)

Now, are you just having some sawdust left in the cabinet? If so does it really matter? I mean as long as it keeps it from filling up, what does it matter? I have not installed a DC yet but I imagine that cabinet will always have some sawdust in it. Just as long it keeps a constant level.

Jim Becker
08-11-2006, 7:04 PM
What Jeff said...no big deal about leaving a little dust in the cabinet, especially with an overarm guard getting the "splash" off the blade. I just use a stick every once in awhile to clean out the corners with the DC running...otherwise, I don't worry about it.

Doug Mason
08-11-2006, 7:05 PM
Yes--the motor cover has slots. My main problem is the dust shooting out of the gaps (i.e., the blade tilting handle); I will try putting insulation in there to see if that will 1) stop the seepage and 2) make it more air-tight and thus create more suction. The cabinet will never be too tight because of the slotted vents in the motor cover.

Bart Leetch
08-11-2006, 8:58 PM
doug

How about some magnetic sheeting like magnetic signs are made of? Cut a piece with a slit in it to go over the height adjustment shaft. Take the crank handle off & put it over the opening & around the shaft & re-install the crank handle.

Terry Hatfield
08-11-2006, 11:08 PM
Doug,

Two words for ya....duct tape. :D Really. I "installed" two pieces of black duct tape, one one the top of the tilt slot and one on the bottom of the tilt slot. Overlap them slightly but don't stick them together in the middle. The saw dust will soon make them non-sticky on the inside and the result is that the tape deflects most of the flying dust back into the cabinet and the tilt mechanism can still move freely back and forth. Plus it's really nice looking too. :D :D

I also enlarged the stock port to 6" and that made a tremendous difference as well. Grizzly actually puts a metal deflector in front of the blade on the left tilt saws to help with the dust flying out of the slot but not on the right tilt saws. Beats me why they don't put it on both saws but the duct tape deal does work pretty well. Here's some pics of my setup.

HTH,

Terry

David Less
08-12-2006, 6:36 AM
Doug, Here are some photos of my home made dust hood. It rapps around and pivots with the blade. I made it out of polycarbinate. It works very well.

Maybe this will give you some ideas.

David

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules/gallery/albums/albuv69/Motor_Bot.sized.jpg

http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules/gallery/albums/albuv69/Motor_Angle.sized.jpg


http://www.woodworkersweb.com/modules/gallery/albums/albuv69/Motor_Angle_Bot.sized.jpg

Terry Hatfield
08-12-2006, 10:52 PM
David,

Now that is very cool. Excellent work. Makes my duct tape job look like...well a duct tape job. :(

Thanks for posting the pics. Could you elaborate a bit about the construction?

t

glenn bradley
08-12-2006, 11:59 PM
If dust is shooting out of the gaps it sounds like you need more airflow. My enclosed router box under the RT actually needed more entrance area (read leaks) to get good air flow. The best result was from a slot at just below the table height on the 'left' side and my DC hose exit point at the bottom of the box at the 'right' side. All the dust that enters the box from the bit gets caught in that air flow and heads for the exit port.