Panelsaw Gloat

[Charles McKinley]

Hi All,

I finally put my panel saw together. It is the kit from SawTrax. Someone had ordered it at Woodworkers Warehouse and never picked it up. The rails were $100 and the carrier and bearings were $169. HD was clearancing the 77 Skil saw for $100. The stupid heavy cornstalk board and 2x4 came to about $43. Total about $412. Much cheaper than back surgery.

I used biscuits to align the side wings before screwing them to the 2x4 in the back.

Aligning the fence by yourself is a major PITA. If at all possible I would have some one help if I were building it again.

The tool carrier can also accept a router for doing dados.

I wedged the blade guard up or it binds when you slide the saw back up. I still need to put the pulley and counter weight on the saw to aid in pulling the saw back to the top.

I have not tried ripping with it yet.

I bought UHMD tape to put on the fence and back to help the sheet slide. I still need to work on the dust collection also.

Comments questions

Thanks for looking.

[Don Wilson]

That's similar in concept to the one I have, which was bought locally. I used a high grade of plywood for the backboard, 2x4 frame behind that, and a 2x4 for a bottom tray to rest the sheets to be cut on. I lean it against a wall, counterbalance just fits behind. After 1 1/2 years the 2x4 tray warped and put it 1/8" out of alignment for a 48" cut. I will replace it with rectangular aluminum tubing soon so it can't move (have approx. 1 3/4" x 4 1/2" x 8 ft. "box" aluminum found at the scrap yard). Should be able to dial it in to 1/64" in 48" or better. It's a simple system that works very well. Setting the saw (Milwaukee side winder) for rips works well too. Mine cost $650 (saw included) and has 2" chromed tubing for rails attached to 1/4" plate steel at each end, and the saw carriage is made from 1/4" or thicker aluminum plate. I plan on drilling mounting holes for a router soon. I'm always amazed at the crummy panel saw the local hardwood lumber yard uses, $1300+ and they always warn you it will cut 1/4" out of square on sheet goods, and it sure does, silly imo. I am moving my shop this month, I plan on adding DC to this tool or putting it in an outside shed. You got a good deal, maybe the aluminum tray will work for you? Tho it looks like you may have used MDF. Good luck, Don

[Bart Leetch]

Chuck I can understand your fondness for your new panel-saw. I was very thankful when I was able to get this DeWalt panel-saw minus the saw for $100 it has saved my already injured back many times. My shop is 13" wide & this also makes a small shop work better. The Panel-saw is straight in from the only entry door that is 36" wide. I bring in material only a few sheets at a time & store them behind the saw or cut them to size or a size to go onto the table-saw.

[Charles McKinley]

Don-Thanks for the aluminum idea. The fence upgrade will happen one day. I put it togeather as per directions as I need it for a shelving job I have. I'm making a list of improvements I want. The saw at the store wasn't set up right and they either don't have anyone that is capable or cares to align it. Go to the top manager and complain. The base you have is available for my saw. I may get an extra base for the router rather than having to remove the saw from its base.

Bart-Thanks for the picture of your saw. I really like the metal and wood frame. It looks like it would be e good modification for mine.

I have the saw set just deep enough to score the base. The blade gaurd catches when I slide it back to the top. Do you guys have this problem? How did you fix it? I put a wedge in the guard handle to hold it open but woold like a better solution.

Thanks

[Bart Leetch]

Charles

My saw is an old Black & Decker the the shield casting around the hub was broken & the guard had gotten hung up in the up position so I quit using it & got a new saw. It was setting on the shelf when I got the DeWalt Panel. I reasoned that with the blade covered by the sliding table for the panel it would be safe to use & it is.

[Howard Barlow]

I have the saw set just deep enough to score the base. The blade gaurd catches when I slide it back to the top. Do you guys have this problem? How did you fix it? I put a wedge in the guard handle to hold it open but woold like a better solution.

Thanks

Remove the guard if it is a permanent installation.

Have you used it enough to know what accuracy to expect? I need to build one soon.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Howord,

I have it within 1/8 of an inch for crosscut at the moment. I will tweak it this weekend and post an update. I may even look for some aluminum channel to use for the fence.

[Howard Barlow]

Hi Howord,

I have it within 1/8 of an inch for crosscut at the moment. I will tweak it this weekend and post an update. I may even look for some aluminum channel to use for the fence.

Thanks, Charles. I'm sure many will be interested in how well it will tune in.