Penn state RangerIII remote question

[Julio Navarro]

I am using the "Long Ranger III" Switch, 220V from pennstate to run my 5hp cyclone motor.

It had been working fine but tonight I tried to turn it on but the breaker on the Ranger receiver kept tripping. The motor would start up and run for 2 or 3 seconds then the breaker on the bottom of the unit shuts off.

Has any one had any problem like this?

Like I said, I've been using the unit for about 3 weeks now and has worked great till to night. The only difference about tonight is I added another 15 feet of run to the duct work. thinking that it was drawing alot of amperage on the start I opened a few of the connections to remove as much static preassure as possible but the reiciver still tripped.

I noticed that the Ranger is a 220v for 3hp motor, mine is the HF 5hp compressor motor. I just noticed it today, this looks like it might have something to do with the problem.

Thanks for any help.

[Alan Turner]

Talk to Penn State. We are now (finally!) putting DC in the new shop, and went with the 3.5 hp PSI cyclone. They said the Long Ranger would not handle that motor because of its size, but would have no problem with the 3 hp Rees Memphis. We have 2 DC's. It seems your motor's amps may be in excess of the capacity.

[Kyle Kraft]

I believe that you should actually close all the vents to reduce the load on the blower. Do an amp draw check on a furnace blower with an unrestricted intake and compare it with the intake closed off and you'll see the motor will be running in an overload condition when its unrestricted. Has something to do with requiring more power to move more air.:D

[Julio Navarro]

Thanks Alan, Kyle.

I will do both. And I may even have to get a 3hp motor, looks like or discard the remote:( .

[Larry Browning]

Check out Dennis Peacock's web site for a much better option for a remote (my opinion). He uses a contactor and simple 110v remote to operate it. All common off the shelf parts. You can use a 20hp motor if you want with this baby! Well maybe not 20, but it will handle that 5hp with no problem. Check it out.

[Julio Navarro]

You wouldnt happen to have the link, would you, Larry?

[glenn bradley]

http://www.beautifulwood.net/html/wireless_dc.html

[Larry Browning]

Julio,
I got my contactor switch at Graingers for about $20 and I used a $15 christmas lights remote from HD. I already had a electrical box, so the whole thing cost me about $35. It works like a dream. My only fear is that I misplace the remote and then I can't turn on the DC.

[Don Selke]

I believe that you have one of two problems with your current remote system. The unit that starts the motor has a set of contact points in it that are burned or carboned up and are preventing the motor from starting. Disconnect the starter from the electrical source and open up the unit to inspect the points. If they are badly burned it is a indication that this unit is not large enough for your 5 HP motor. If they are carbened up but the points are in good condition, clean them with a fine file or 600 grit abrasive.
I agree that you should install a magnetic starter with a central switch. Remember that the magnetic starter has to be rated for the current of your motor at start up. As previously stated, make sure that the power is off before doing anything.

[Robert Mickley]

I would be willing to bet your pulling too many amps for the Long Ranger. A low cost fix would to be get a realy that will handle the amps. us the Long Ranger to control the big reay. that way the Long Ranger is experiancing very samll amp loads and the added realy is taking on the big load.

Ok after looking at Dennis's plans, follow that theory since you all ready have the Long Ranger

[Dennis Peacock]

Julio,

Just to give you an update on my homemade version of the DC remote. I've been using mine for over 2 years now. Heavy use, very dusty, and used in the on/off a LOT. All components are still working as the day they were installed. At least the only parts in my DC Remote setup are the remote xmitter and rcvr, and the 2 pole contactor. Both of which can easily be replaced for under $20. Distance? I can turn my DC on from outside the shop at a distance of about 75 feet (directly from the kitchen table. :D ) Best of all, it was less expensive than any other setup I researched, parts are locally available (even in Conway, AR) and it will handle a 60 Amp Start load. :D

[Julio Navarro]

So basically the theory is to use the remote (Long RangerIII) to open and close a contact that completes the 220v "high start-up amps" that in turn delivers the power to the 5hp motor?

I would need a 110v contact and follow Dennis' instructions to adapt my set up?

[Robert Mickley]

So basically the theory is to use the remote (Long RangerIII) to open and close a contact that completes the 220v "high start-up amps" that in turn delivers the power to the 5hp motor?

I would need a 110v contact and follow Dennis' instructions to adapt my set up?
Exactly!!!

And Dennis,, thanks by the end of the week I hope to be on remote control. hmmmmm75 feet huh? I could turn the compressor on and of thats in the front shop. Oh the gears are turning!!!

[Russ Massery]

Julio, Here's where I bought my contactor, I bought the remote from Radio Shack for $15.00. http://www.surplussales.com/Relays/REcontacts.html

[t ladd]

Perhaps a sparky can chime in . .

Not meaning to challenge the creative solution, but would it be possible tap 110v from the 220v feed rather than supplying a separate 110v source ?

A 4 wire 220 feed would be necessary: red - hot; black - hot, white - neutral; ground.

t ladd

[Don Baer]

Perhaps a sparky can chime in . .

Not meaning to challenge the creative solution, but would it be possible tap 110v from the 220v feed rather than supplying a separate 110v source ?

A 4 wire 220 feed would be necessary: red - hot; black - hot, white - neutral; ground.

t ladd

It depend on the coil voltage of the relay used. If the coil is 110 then you must use a 110 supply, if the coil is 220 then you could use 220 . Also in Dennis's setup I believe that the remote reciever requires 110. It is perfectly legal to just run a neutral and use one leg of the line side to provide the 110V.

[Julio Navarro]

It depend on the coil voltage of the relay used. If the coil is 110 then you must use a 110 supply, if the coil is 220 then you could use 220 . Also in Dennis's setup I believe that the remote reciever requires 110. It is perfectly legal to just run a neutral and use one leg of the line side to provide the 110V.

The wire I used to go to the 20amp 220v breaker is a 10-3 so it has the white neutral wire already in it, so I can hook up the contactor via the white and one of the "hot" wires this would give mne 110V, is this correct?

[Don Baer]

The wire I used to go to the 20amp 220v breaker is a 10-3 so it has the white neutral wire already in it, so I can hook up the contactor via the white and one of the "hot" wires this would give mne 110V, is this correct?

Yup. You are correct.

[Jeff Kieserman]

I have a friend who is running the Long Ranger III, purchased a second remote control, and tells me it has to be programmed to run the switching. He doesn't have the manual, and even if he did, probably couldn't pull it off. I probably can. Can anyone supply instructions describing how to do this programming? Thanks, Jeff