Half lap dovetail tutorial

[Mark Singer]

I chose to make the more difficult of the two joints....if the dovetail runs through...it is very easy...just do the same as here ...let it run past an eighth inch and trim flush....here the socket contails all the surfaces...so if yoy make this one you can make the other!
This is what I call the "one template" method...you make a temple on 1/2" mdf or plywood...use a bevel gauge at 1/6 ratio... Cut template on the bandsaw or by hand...fair with a rasp...
Screw the template to the workpiece the edge must be flush to the outside...ash is the wood here... Using a router and a 1/2" top bearing bit make a few passes...the mortise will look just like the template except for the inside corners that are squared with a chisel... Now using the same template...(and so the name) ...mark the dovetail on the other piece...saw this on the bandsaw... shoulders face and final after checking the depth of the mortise ...resaw to proper depth plus 1/16. When you cut the tail think how a cork fits in a wine bottle....only the base can go in and it tapers to a snug fit...so cut a little fat and pare or rasp the back edge...don't drink the wine yet:rolleyes: ...
Try the fit and pare and clean to fit...this one was basically a one shot perfect fit....the pencil lines are what is showing in the picture....I will add a pic of the glued up joint after it dries

[Mark Singer]

here you go....

[Mark Singer]

here we go again...

The final 3 show both sides of the finished joint....it is strong and decorative

[Bob Childress]

Mark,

Keep 'em coming!! That looks like it would be a very strong joint.:) Thanks.

[Lars Thomas]

Mark, what do you mean by 'resaw to proper depth plus 1/16'? That seems like a lot to sand flush? Lars

[Peter Pedisich]

Thanks Mark!

I'll be trying it this coming weekend with these instructions on my bench.
Thanks for taking the time.:cool:

Pete

[Mark Singer]

Mark, what do you mean by 'resaw to proper depth plus 1/16'? That seems like a lot to sand flush? Lars

a 32nd is better

[Mark Singer]

This technique can be used for many joints...The through lap is much easier because there are only 2 surfaces that touch....This is a good joint to practice handsawing.....a tenon saw is best and just go slow...mark each face so you can watch the blade progress on every surface...The bandsaw is set at 90 degrees and if you can saw to one side of a line...your good...and that is good practice also...split hairs...:rolleyes: Making architectural models on the bandsaw has helped me ....all those little fine pieces...:confused: Where do they all go:confused:

[Robert Mickley]

Thats Cool Mark!! now I have something else to try out :D

[glenn bradley]

Great stuff Mark!

P.s. Long sleeves near power tools make me nervous.

[Mike Cutler]

Nice thread Mark!

The 1/2 lap dovetail can also be used for two pieces of material going off at an angle other than 90deg. I've seen a variation where only one side of the dovetail had a "tail", the other side was straight.

I'm in the process of making a new router table. I'll give the 1/2 lap dovetail a whirl for some of the leg joinery. M&T's can get boring. It looks like fun.

Technical question concerning the joint. Do you use the same 1:6 ratio for hard and softwoods?

[Mark Singer]

Nice thread Mark!

The 1/2 lap dovetail can also be used for two pieces of material going off at an angle other than 90deg. I've seen a variation where only one side of the dovetail had a "tail", the other side was straight.

I'm in the process of making a new router table. I'll give the 1/2 lap dovetail a whirl for some of the leg joinery. M&T's can get boring. It looks like fun.

Technical question concerning the joint. Do you use the same 1:6 ratio for hard and softwoods?
Mike,
On larger joints in 8/4 with big members the 1 to 8 ratio does not look right to me.... I think there is more torsional strength at 6 to 1 also....

[Mark Singer]

Nice thread Mark!

The 1/2 lap dovetail can also be used for two pieces of material going off at an angle other than 90deg. I've seen a variation where only one side of the dovetail had a "tail", the other side was straight.

I'm in the process of making a new router table. I'll give the 1/2 lap dovetail a whirl for some of the leg joinery. M&T's can get boring. It looks like fun.

Technical question concerning the joint. Do you use the same 1:6 ratio for hard and softwoods?
Mike,
On larger joints in 8/4 with big members the 1 to 8 ratio does not look right to me.... I think there is more torsional strength at 6 to 1 also....

[jonathan snyder]

Mark,

Thanks for taking time to show us how it is done. It is a nice decorative joint. Is it suitable for use with 4/4 stock? Seems like it might not be strong enough. I cant tell how thick you stock is. How deep do you cut the mortise, maybe 2/3 of the stock thickness?

Thanks
Jonathan

[Mark Singer]

Mark,

Thanks for taking time to show us how it is done. It is a nice decorative joint. Is it suitable for use with 4/4 stock? Seems like it might not be strong enough. I cant tell how thick you stock is. How deep do you cut the mortise, maybe 2/3 of the stock thickness?

Thanks
Jonathan

It is usually half thickness, but you can modify it....it will work with 4x4 it is a timber frame joint

[Joe Blankshain]

At it again Mark! Please keep them coming as we are all benefiting from you knowledge. Also, you explanations and pictures make the step by step tutorial easy for anyone to follow. Thanks

[Chris Padilla]

Good stuff, Mark! When are you holding classes?? :D