New Tutorial Exposed Wedged through tenon extended detail

[Mark Singer]

I was asked to discuss this joint for KD (knock down) construction. The pics are of a ;arge table I made about 12 years ago. This is an easy joint and it looks hand crafted... The easy way is to make a rectangular template the size of the mortise and using a top bearing bit rout down as far as the bit will go...remove the template and the mortice becomes the template as you continue through the piece...back it with scrap when you come through to eliminate tearout. The tenon is cut by hand, bandsaw, or tablesaw to the exact size of the mortise. Since the router bit left a square with inside roounded corners, use a matching roundover on the tenon and you don't have to square it. Of course you can if thats the look you want...which is nice also. So a 1/2" straight bit will match with a 1/4" radius roundover...no calculus needed :rolleyes: ...The wedge in the pics is made from ebony and it is cut on the bandsaw and shaped by hand or machine and hand sanding...carving...chewing with your teeth:rolleyes: skip the last one!
It is important to drill the hole for the wedge a little inside the depth of the second member...in this case a leg..That way when you tap in the edge it tightens the gap between the stretcher and leg... The best design is with wedges from the top...or they will eventually come out if started from the bottom. A final caution...leave a little of the tenon end past the wedge...say 1/2" min....thatt is the weak direction and the wedge could force the tenon to break out....This is one solid tenon as part of the stretcher...not loose. It works great for furniture that needs to be takn apart...and put back...if you don't want to put it back together a chainsaw or sledge hammer works well:rolleyes:

You only ned to make shoulders in one direction...kep the thickness or height he same ...full

[Mark Singer]

I think your starting to get the picture...

[Mark Singer]

Interesting joint! Like usuall ....nice work! Is the wood Jatoba? Thats what I thought.... Thanks for posting , I always enjoy your informative threads....:rolleyes: This one is kinda dead:o

[Joe Blankshain]

Mark,

Thanks for some more insight into the fine art of joint making. Jatoba is one of the finer woods in the "exotic" catagory IMHO. Will have the pic's of the new shop this week as promised.

[Don Baer]

Thanks for this one Mark. I have a bed for my grandaughter on the to do list and I have been thinking how to make the side so that the bed could be moved. This looks like the perfect solution. Is there a rule of thumb for how far past the mortise the tenion needs to go for strength ? I know past the pin but lets day the pin is 1" should the tenion protruce 3",2",1"?

[Mark Singer]

Thanks for this one Mark. I have a bed for my grandaughter on the to do list and I have been thinking how to make the side so that the bed could be moved. This looks like the perfect solution. Is there a rule of thumb for how far past the mortise the tenion needs to go for strength ? I know past the pin but lets day the pin is 1" should the tenion protruce 3",2",1"?
Don it depends on the wood...1" is fine for most woods

[Bob Childress]

Interesting joint! Like usuall ....nice work! Is the wood Jatoba? Thats what I thought.... :D :D :D

Actually, this is probably the best way to make bed frames and such. They look great and are strong.

In your pics, the pin looks rather fragile (maybe just perspective). What are the relative forces at work? How much pressure is really being exerted on the pin? In other words, how robust does the pin need to be?:confused:

[Russ Massery]

Thanks Mark, The table I'm working on has a stretcher that calls for keyed tenons. This will be a great help.

[Dan Larson]

Thanks Mark, I appreciate this new tutorial as much as the others! By the way, is this the famous "flying table"?

Dan

[glenn bradley]

Mark, Great as usual. This is perfect timing as I'm just finishing a non-wedged (is that a word?) tenon wall cabinet and the LOML has decided a wedged quilt rack she saw would look good underneath it. thanks again for sharing your experience in a straightforward detailed manner.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Such a duscussion should also include credit to Elbert Hubbard, and the Roycroft tradition.

[Mark Singer]

Thanks Mark, I appreciate this new tutorial as much as the others! By the way, is this the famous "flying table"?

Dan


That is! Its last flight was about 12 years ago on the way to my , then new studio in Laguna Canyon:rolleyes:

[Mark Singer]

:rolleyes:
Such a duscussion should also include credit to Elbert Hubbard, and the Roycroft tradition.
http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/thumb/0/05/250px-Elbert_Hubbard_-_Project_Gutenberg_eText_12933.jpg

Here is a pic of the the arts and crafts founder...

The detail I am describing has its roots in The Roycroft and Stickley furniture...Here is a table that shows similar joints...http://photos.icollector.com/photos/fairfieldauction/3876/3876_0197_1_md.jpg

Often they are made with horizontal wedges which can work free....I suggest they drop in from the top vertically...
As with many joints the Egyptians are credited with the dovetail..mortise and tenon ...half laps etc...The Arts and Crafts derived and furter refined these roots...it is a continuing evoultion and dialog.....The Charles Rennie MacIntosh designs are another early interpretation and many more contemporary designs rdaw from and respect all of these sources, as it should be....this discussion is focused on the construction techniques, as opposed to the history...but it is nice to know a little about that as well:rolleyes:

http://www.victorianweb.org/art/design/macintosh/11a.jpg