Gluing layers of MDF

[Deck Reagan]

Hey everyone,
I need to glue three layers of MDF together for my router table top. What's the best glue product to use? On my last table I used contact cement.

Thanks,

deck

[Allen Bookout]

I glued two layers together and used West System Epoxy. I guess that it depends on what is meant by the best. The one thing that I do know is that it will never, ever come apart at the glue joint unless it reaches a very high temperature. At that temperature there will be more to worry about than the router table.

The bad thing is that you will have to let it sit for several hours to cure. The good thing is that you can adjust it if you need to and reclamp.

Allen

[Deck Reagan]

Can you use regular wood glue?

Deck

[Andy Fox]

I used water-based contact cement for 2 layers of MDF plus laminate on both sides. I edge-banded with 3/4" oak using yellow glue and dowels before applying the laminate. I haven't had any problems after 4 years, 3 1/2 of that being in an unheated garage.

If I had to do it over, I'd use solvent-based contact cement or epoxy.

[Andy Fox]

I once had some problems laminating plywood with yellow glue. It was more warped after glue-up, probably due to the water content of the glue, but it could've just been the plywood or improper storage after glue-up (little air circulation on one side).

BTW, If you apply plastic laminate, make sure to cover both sides.

[Howard Acheson]

>> On my last table I used contact cement.

Still your best choice.

[jonathan snyder]

Deck,

I too have used contact cement with good results

Jonathan

[Russ Massery]

I built a workbench top outof MDF. From an old Woodsmith plan, I used solvent based contact cement worked out great.

[Per Swenson]

Hey all,

We glue our Mdf with Tite Blond 3.

Applied with a roller.

Per


P,S. yeah that's a typo, it should be blonde.

[Doug Shepard]

I've used Titebond II and Elmers ProBond with no problems. I usually lay out some thick beads then spread it into a thin layer with a scrap of plastic laminate.

[tod evans]

deck, i`d advise against contact (rubber) cement. scuff the surfaces with 60 grit and use plain ol` yeller glue. if ya` don`t have a vacuum bag pre drill for woodscrews about every 4" and use them as your clamps, remove them when the glue is cured and laminate with your top of choice..02 tod

[Wes Bischel]

I've used Titebond II and III and never had any issues with either.

Wes

[Terry Flowers]

Well, you have a lot of responses about glues, so I will add one other comment.

Whatever the glue, worry about it being flat. I suggest clamping with cauls to a known flat surface, such as a table saw top, then add screws if you wish as Per suggested.

I also don't know that the 3rd layer is necessary, but I guess it can't hurt.

Terry

[glenn bradley]

Another vote for Titebond. I layered MDF over plywood and topped with another sheet of MDF. Titebond, a small disposable paint roller to spread it evenly, lots of cauls to spread the pressure. It's been in use for almost 2 years and has worked out great.

[Mike Henderson]

I've used plain old white glue (Elmer's glue), Titebond I and Titebond III. All worked fine. I think the main issue is clamping them tight. If you don't have clamps that will reach to the middle of the glueup, I'd use cauls to get the center pulled in.

A roller works fine but I've also just spread it with a squeege when I didn't have a roller handy or if the piece was not too big.

Mike

[Phil Phelps]

White Elmers glue with a roller. Much easier than a faster setting glue and doesn't pull and drag either.

[John Kain]

Titebond II for me. I used it for my router table MDF top; no problems.