Laminate for outfeed table

[Mike Hill]

As I said in another thread earlier, I am in the process of putting a smoother surface top on my out feed table. It is approximately 54"X37". I tried some laminate from HD and it was a mess. Brittle, impossible to cut etc. Would like a recommendation in what to use on the table. I have attached a picture to give and idea of the area and Ply Surface. See thread below.

Mike


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=41478&d=1151245230

[Ian Gillis]

Hi

Cutting 4x8' sheets of plastic laminate feels weird at first, but it's not particularly hard to do. Yes, it will chip like crazy, so you should cut an inch or more oversize. There's no way you can keep it flat, so don't bother trying. Raise the blade on your saw quite high and make sure you keep the laminate tight to your rip fence. The rip fence should be tight to the saw table. If you can't lower your fence clamp a piece to it and eliminate any gap that the laminate might get into.

Lift the end you are holding high, keep it tight to the fence and let it flow into the blade. Lower the back end as it approaches the blade, but on wider pieces I keep my thumb under the sheet as it is hard to control by pushing the top of the sheet. For narrow strips (door edges, etc) use a push-stick.

That's about all I can think to tell you. Well, it can be done with a handheld router and a staightedge, but you need to provide clearance underneath. Your TS is the tool of choice IMO.

IG

[Hank Knight]

Mike, I invested about $12 in a laminate cutter form the local BORG and it has changed my life - at least that part of my life devoted to laminate cutting. It's a "hand tool," a sharp-pointed piece of carbide attached to a handle. You use it to score the laminate with a straight edge where you want to cut it. If you bend it along the score line, it snaps into. It's MUCH easier than cutting on a TS or with a router. I support the laminate next to the score line to snap it by clamping it between two boards. It doesn't always snap off cleanly, but the break doesn't wander far form the score line, so it's plenty accurate enough for cutting to rough size - like Ian said, about 1 inch oversize.

[Luis Oliveira]

Here is an idea, why not use painters tape and make it a bit thick, make sure you tape both sides and make sure your blade clears the top and try your cut.

luis

[Vaughn McMillan]

I'd still stay with the laminate surface, despite the problems you've had so far. To add to what the others have suggested (and please forgive if this is already something you know) but cut it oversize like everyone said, then glue it on. Then, you can cleanly trim the edges flush with a bearing-guided flush cut router bit. At least that's what's worked for me in the past. If you try to cut it to exact size before gluing it on, you'll likely be disappointed.

- Vaughn

[Chris Padilla]

They sell a 4x8 sheet of Melamine for under $30...slickest stuff out there for the price although a tad on the heavy side....

[tod evans]

mike, one thing about cutting platic laminate with a tablesaw, wear glasses! if you get the stuff in a bind it`ll frag out on you like shards of glass.....yeah it`s the longest lived/affordable surface for outfeed tables. that said i use waxed mdf on mine...02 tod

[George Summers]

Another hint for cutting laminate on a table saw. I have a piece of 'outside corner' that is used for the outside corners of drywall. It is basically an 'L' shaped piece of thin aluminum. I clamp this to my fence and let the laminate ride on the 'L'. It keeps the laminate from sliding under the fence. Since you cut the laminate oversized anyway, the affect on measurement is nothing.

George

[Allen Bookout]

Mike,

A lot of times I use my circular saw for cutting laminate. I use a 7 1/4" Freud Diablo 40 tooth finishing blade from HD. Believe it or not I get almost no chiping. I usually lay it over full length 2x4s just like that I was going to cut a piece of plywood. If you are having trouble getting a good cut with this set up, I have put a full length of cardboard down on the floor, placed the laminate on top of the cardboard, adjusted the blade to just barely cut throught the laminate into the top layer of cardboard and cut out the pieces that I need. This is a pretty foolproof way to cut it without the risk of a tear.

I guess that insulation board would be even better than cardboard but at least the cardboard is usually free.

One note about the blade. I find that it is better for this application than the laminate blades.

Allen

[glenn bradley]

I made my trim 1/4" extra tall all around the table top and dropped in a piece of 1/4"masonite. I used this method so it would be easy to replace once damaged; I still haven't changed it yet. A little paste wax now and again and she stays real low friction. Cheap and easy to work material too.

[Phil Phelps]

I've cut thousands and thousands of feet of all brands the last 38 years. Using at least a 40 tooth carbide blade on a table saw, even a super cheap pos, it'll cut just fine. As mentioned earlier, make sure you have 0 tolerance between fence and table. You can lay an eighth inch thick piece of hardboard on the table next to the fence and let the laminate ride on top.

[Jim Becker]

I had no problem with the laminate I bought from the 'borg...cut it oversize on the TS with no issues. Phil does make a good point that when cutting very thin materials, you need to unsure they cannot fit under or bind where the fence meets the table. Most fences ride just above the table, so worst case, clamp on an auxiliary fence that is flush with the table and be sure to account for its thickness in your fence settings... ;)

[Steve Clardy]

I've always used the tablesaw, or a set of PC electric shears.
Always cut oversize, then glue down, trim to size with router.

[Jeff Horton]

Since you asked for another option I won't tell you how to cut laminate. :D I can't, never had cut it. I use tempered hardboard on all my table tops. It's cheap and plenty slipper for outfeed tables. If you want it slicker then just add some Johnson's past wax. Probably just a good idea period. Sitting a cold can or glass on them is not a smart thing. DAMHIK.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Lowes sells a pair of laminate shears for HP laminate. Keets, a metal working tool that uses three jaws, with the two outer being fixed and the middle moving up an down, just like laminate shears. Costs about $135. Harbor Freight sells a set of air operated shears for about $30 which will do the same. Last year I made a curved desk for local "Y". The top was cut from a 5X12 piece of laminate. Laid sheet on top and from bottom marked the edges with a "Sharpie". Turned sheet over and trimed 1" oversized, using "Keets". Glued, and then trimed to size. When triming to size, I use a 1/2" pattern trim bit with an oversized bearing (from rabbet bit set). Then after greasing edges with vaseline, use laminate trimmer with carbide cutter. File edges and then clean up excess glue with MINERAL SPIRITS, not laquear thinner.

[Mike Hill]

I can't thank everyone enough for the good advice. Problem I had was that with a requirement for a 37 X 54" sized piece of laminate, getting it through the table saw without making a mistake seems like an impossible task. I will think about this over the weekend and decide on what to do. If I use laminate, cutting it with shears seems the thing to do. One issue I have to resolve is that I trimmed the out feed table with some molding I made and cut a small cove in it. Sooo.....to trim the laminate to finish, I would have to use the identical cove bit set to the same depth + the laminate. I actually tried to take the trim off the table, but yellow glue and a nail gin made this impossible :( It's as if the trim is part of the plywood. As always though, I learned a lot from each of you on this one and appreciate the help.
Mike

[Jim Becker]

Mike you could always score the material, clamp straight material on the line and then snap it. Since you almost always "cut" laminate oversize and trim once it's on the substrate, you don't need a "perfect" edge...

[Kent Fitzgerald]

I actually tried to take the trim off the table, but yellow glue and a nail gin made this impossible :(

Circular saw + nail cutting blade = possible.

[Keith Weber]

I had chipping issues a few years ago after trying my jigsaw and circular saw. Utility knife didn't work for me either. Then I tried my ROTOZIP. I've never looked back. It's quick and easy, no chipout, and you can cut irregular shapes. I cut it 1/4" oversize and then use a router with a flushcut bit to finish it after I've cemented it to the substrate.

Keith

[Brian Triplett]

I just used some material that is used for dry earase boards, and I found it at the blue borg. Smooth and easy to cut (straight trim bit, & festool saw blade) and no chipping! It had some hardi board behind it about 1/8" think so I just glued it to a sheet of MDF and put thrim around it. For your size I woud suggest adding stiffeners if you go this route. Just my two cents

[tod evans]

Sooo.....to trim the laminate to finish, I would have to use the identical cove bit set to the same depth + the laminate.
Mike

mike, this is doable, or even use a slightly larger cove. router bits cut laminate with no trouble, gun nails too....02 tod

[chester stidham]

Try cutting it with you router and a guide board works good no chipping very fast and you probly have the bit already to trim it.:rolleyes:

[Nissim Avrahami]

Hi Mike

I’m only an amateur so I was reluctant to reply, but what I did on the router table is, just screwed on top of the plywood “floor panels”, they are flat, slippery and click one to the other. You also get 15 years guaranty for walking on them (just joking).

You can see it in the picture.

niki

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f321/avrahami/RTable/08.jpg