Bench Top

[Dave Williams]

A few weeks ago I built a folding jointer's workbench and it works quite well. However we also have a metal working section in our shop and the top is starting to get dirty and some dirt is coming off on to my work. I must put some type of sealer on it. This needs to be done as quickly as possible as work is mounting up and I need the bench. The options that are available in the shop are clear lacquer and polyurethane. Lacquer dries faster but is it as good as polyurethane? So I guess my question is what should I go with?

[Bruce Page]

Dave, definitely go with the poly. Lacquer is pretty and dries fast, but it's way down on the durability scale.

[harry strasil]

I would just clean the surface well and then put a couple of coats of good paste was on it, you could use it immediatly after waxing, and the surface is easily renuable.

my2¢

[Chris Barton]

I agree with Harry here. I use only paste wax on my bench top for several reasons. First, it's an easy finish to renew if you need to. Second, it allows you to repair or correct minor defects in your bench surface without having to scrape off a hard finish and then refinish. I also like the way it smells (I know, I'm a freak).

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

One more vote for paste wax, though I do frequently put a spit coat (1 to 1-1/2 # cut) of shellac on first (I raise the grain first with alcohol).

This is my basic treatment for anything wood that's tool-related, including workbenches, wooden planes, saw handles, boxes to lug planes in, etc.

ETA: grr. typo.

[Doug Shepard]

Dave
I'd love to see some pics of your folding workbench if it's not too much trouble. I'm always looking for ideas to file away for my eventual bench project. I really want one that folds up to the size of a CD but I may have to compromise.:D

[Dave Williams]

Here are some pics of the bench, I got the plans from one of Roy Underhill's books, The Woodwright's Apprentice. I added a vise and used threaded rod as this bench was made from scrap wood in about 3 days or so and I did not want to spend money when I don't have to. This bench is very very sturdy, i've used it as a scafolding and it didn't shake a bit and bashed away making mortises and no problems.The top is 22 1/2 inches wide -includes tool well skirt and front skirt. It's about 5 feet 1 and 1/2 inches long and stands 32.5 inches. When folded and central batten removed it's only 9 inches and can be leaned against a wall and takes up little space. The only thing I had to go out and buy were the four 4 inch "T" hinges for the leg frames.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a133/Mr_Zoot_Suit/folded.jpg the leg frames will fold flat if I remove the central batten.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a133/Mr_Zoot_Suit/nobraces.jpg braces removed; that batten will not allow the leg frames to fold completly.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a133/Mr_Zoot_Suit/centralbatten.jpg Braces installed, no need to put them on the the tool well board as it will not have heavy loads put on it.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a133/Mr_Zoot_Suit/legfrmae.jpg the top of the leg frames, legs are half lapped to the top board and the T hinges are connected to it and a batten that runs the full width of the top.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a133/Mr_Zoot_Suit/full.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a133/Mr_Zoot_Suit/full2.jpg
The Bench fully assembled with some of the ends of the top/side board on the floor to make it a bit more comfortable to stand on then concreate. I put a coat of lacqure becase some one came in to the shop and moved the container and slammed it down and it broke, so when i was notified a few minuets later i slapped a coat over it and it turned out ok. the black marks in the tool well were on the board and i did not want to plane/sand them out. i don't know how the lacquer will work out, I might sand it down and put something else on it when I have more time.

[Doug Shepard]

Cool. Thanks for adding the pics. I wasn't aware that Mr Underhill had a book out. I may look into that too.

Muchos gracias.

[Alan Turner]

I vote for the lacquer. It can be scraped clean, and reapired by padding, quite easily.

[harry strasil]

I was under the impression the table Dave Williams was talking about had a metal top.

[Clinton Findlay]

I think the problem is that the dirt is getting onto the bench surface and transferring onto your work pieces?

In that case anything that seals the timber and provides a hard surface will do, you'll just have to wipe the dirt off all the time. :(

[Larry Gelder]

Doug - He's got 4 or 5 books.