How important is buffing?

[Tom Jones III]

It seems like the vast majority of people buff their bowls. Is this statement accurate? If you do not buff your bowls, what finish do you use?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Tom..........Buffing in my limited experience and humble opinion is imperative to get a good looking finish. You can get a finish but when you buff it ...it can turn out drop dead gorgeous! It seems to improve all the different finishes I've tried so far....oils....shellac...waxes..I haven't tried lacquer yet......Even in the oil finishes that you don't expect to have a glossy finish buffing seems to add depth to the finish.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Well, I'm a noob as well, and I have the buffing compounds, and I have used them, but it is my understanding that you use them after a hard oil finish like Watco etc. The only Watco oils I have are all fairly dark, and I don't want to use them on my bowls, as they would kill the warm glow the wood has.

What I'm doing now is to sand to about 400, then put a quick coat of sanding sealer on, friction dry it (you know, speed medium, white paper towel, don't use the blue ones :rolleyes:, and warm it up drying the sealer) then I sand the 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, and finally 1500........ all lightly, as there is not much to sand, at this point the bowl is looking good (usually) and then I get out the wax stick, and rub some wax on it. I usually use the drill mounted smaller buff on the inside, with the lathe turning at a reasonable speed, not too fast, say 500 rpm? and then I buff the outside of the bowl on the large buffing wheel.

I only buff wax right now, not the brown and the white diamond compounds, am I doing this wrong?

I get a finish that I'm VERY pleased with, and the fact that my wife keeps giving away all of my bowls must mean they look OK....:rolleyes:

Well there you go, a noobs perspective.

Cheers!

[Bob Hovde]

Stu,

You probably could eliminate the last few courses of sandpaper if you used the buffing compounds. On the other hand, you could rub it out by hand and not use a buffing wheel at all. The buffing system is normally easier on round objects, but not necessary.

Bob

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Stu,

You probably could eliminate the last few courses of sandpaper if you used the buffing compounds. On the other hand, you could rub it out by hand and not use a buffing wheel at all. The buffing system is normally easier on round objects, but not necessary.

Bob

Thanks for the info Bob, I have both, so I'll try both.

Cheers!

[Mike Vickery]

I do not buff my bowl,s but have never tried it so I am not dissing it.

For bowls I usually use 1 of 2 finishing methods.

For both I sand down to 600 and micromesh prior to finishing. Darker wood I will usually oil with BLO and let it cure prior to finshing.

method 1 Gloss finish- Waterlox marine finsh. I wipe a heavy coat of Waterlox on and let it sit about 5 to 7 minutes (until tacky). I dampen a rag with a little more waterlox or Mineral Spirits and wipe off excess. Let dry overnight scuff with fine synthetic stell wool and repaet until I am happy. Usually 3 or 4 coats. The final coat I will let sit for at least a week to fully cure then micromesh starting with the highest grit I can get away with and wax the bowl.

Method 2 semi gloss -Wipeing Poly -The other method is a home made wiping poly made from equal parts Spar Urethane and Turpentine or Mineral spirits the method of application is about the same. The finish goes on alot thinner and smoother so I usually only use the last 3 or 4 grits of micro mesh after cureing. You should be able to get a glossy finsh by building more coats , about 7 to 9 I would guess. As always a coat of wax for the finishing touch.

[Blake McCully]

Since I don't particularly like a high gloss finish, and the vast majority of the stuff I do is to be used and handled, I only buff. I sand to 400 then use all three wheels. That gives me the "finish" I like and is quick and easy. As many to the British turners like to say, the best finish is no finish. Mike Mahoney is a believer in that. The only things I don't buff are spoons and spatuals. I wipe on a mixture of bees wax and peanut oil. Let evaporate for a number of hours, put on another coat, bake in an oven set at 250 for about an hour. Gives me exactly what I want, and holds up well with use. Of course, the user needs to replay peanut or mineral oil every so often.

My $0.02.

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Up until about 6 months ago, I didn't "Buff" my bowls. Then I saw one done on a beal system, and I was hooked. Now, I buff every one. My finish starts with a light wipe with a clear, uncolored oil (Mostly General Finish Butcher Block Oil), then friction polish, by hand, on the lathe; 4 - coats of French Polish. I let it cure for several days, then come back and use Tripoly, and if it is light wood, White Diamond, and Finally the Carnuba wax.

The difference is amazing and my customers recognize it. They used to ooh and ahh the finish, now they say things like "I would expect to see these in a museum."

I have gone back and polished any old pieces made prior to my acquiring The Beal System.

I honestly believe the the finish can make a $20.00 bowl sell for $40.00 - $50.00. The reverse is also true. A Dull/ bad finish can make it hard to get $20.00 for a bowl that should get $40.00.

Not scientific, but I believe it to be true.

Bruce

[Tom Jones III]

My finish starts with a light wipe with a clear, uncolored oil (Mostly General Finish Butcher Block Oil)

Thanks for the info. I bought the Beall buff yesterday. Would mineral oil count as a "clear uncolored oil"

[Dennis Peacock]

Thanks for the info. I bought the Beall buff yesterday. Would mineral oil count as a "clear uncolored oil"

Yes....and works well too. :D
You just have to remember, mineral oil is not a hardening type oil. So apply sparingly. DAMHIKT!!!!

[Mike Jory]

Tom,
When I've seen a lot of work displayed, many have used a buffer. I don't have one, but I'm 'that' close to getting the Beal System. I've used wipe on Polyurithane, and Lacquer to get some glossy finishes, but I think I could improve them with a little very fine sanding, then a buff. I very much admired the Mesquite work by Ernie Nyvall I saw here today, which he buffed.
Adding a buff system would also allow me to use a wax (that I don't use now), or Danish Oil on bowls which I love for (flat work) other woodworking.

[Jim Becker]

"Finishing the finish" is not a horrible thing to do. Buffing gets rid of nibs and other minor imperfections and if you do it carefully, it will bring your piece to an even sheen all around. It can be the difference between a really nice turning and an outstanding one when it comes to presentation. Required? No. A good idea? Yes, IMHO.\

And just to be complete, there are some types of turning that you should NOT attempt to buff for safety reasons. Use good judgment. And even on the ones that are perfect for buffing, hold on to the piece tightly and carefully so you don't launch it! Buffing will not remove the resulting need for glue lines... ;)

[Travis Stinson]

This shows the difference buffing makes on a piece. I sanded this little Macassar Ebony HF to 1200 grit and wiped on a couple coats of Seal-a-cell.
Then, after buffing on all 3 of the Beall compounds.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

"Finishing the finish" is not a horrible thing to do. Buffing gets rid of nibs and other minor imperfections and if you do it carefully, it will bring your piece to an even sheen all around. It can be the difference between a really nice turning and an outstanding one when it comes to presentation. Required? No. A good idea? Yes, IMHO.\

And just to be complete, there are some types of turning that you should NOT attempt to buff for safety reasons. Use good judgment. And even on the ones that are perfect for buffing, hold on to the piece tightly and carefully so you don't launch it! Buffing will not remove the resulting need for glue lines... ;)

Jim .....I agree! And buffing can add some embellishments that you didn't intend and are almost, if not completely, impossible to remove! :rolleyes: DAMHIKT!!!

[Bruce Shiverdecker]

Yes Tom, mineral oil will work, but as Dennis said, use Sparingly. It is there to Punch the grain and give the piece a little humidity pertection. Jim's right, too, as is Ken. Experiment and you will get what you want. You'll know when you see it!

Bruce