Older Unisaw Dust Collection

[Cory Newman]

I attempted a search, and although I found numerous threads, none particularly answered my question. I apologize if I'm beating a dead horse.

I'm nearing the end of an older Unisaw restoration, its not a goose egg vintage, its newer with the rectangular motor opening.

It has the rectangular dust port in the plinth, but I don't really want the port coming out the back like that, and although I could rotate the base and put the hole under the extension table, then it would be in the way of the kick down caster for the mobile base.

I'm planning on building a new motor cover with a dust port on the bottom of it. That way it will come out under the extension table and be high enough not to interfere with the mobile base.

Are there any downsides to having the dust port so close to the motor and essentially pulling all the dust directly across the motor?

Thanks

[Grant Vanbokklen]

Cory,
I've been searching the site here with little success. But I'm thinking that I might build inside the saw a partiton just under the motor. The bottom of my new Unisaw is open. I'll have to close that off. Would like to build a slight concave partiton with the hose right at the bottom center. I'm going to have to do something about closing off the bottom. But I'm open to going in through the access plate in the back lower left corner. I'm sure there have been some good ideas by others in regards to this issue. Hope someone who has done a dust collection upgrade to a Unisaw, or knows of a website or post where it was discussed chimes in. Have any of you longtime sawmillcreekers seen this discussed?

I should have said my new to me saw is a mid/late 70s Delta Rockwell

[John Thompson]

Morning Cory...

I purchased a factory re-conditioned X-5 last fall. At this point there is basically no dust as I have a direct hook-up to a 6" PS cyclone in the stock port in the rear which I en-larged slightly to get a 6" hood on. I also built an over-head gaurd (Penn State plastic sheild and an over-head Euro crown from a piece of hardwood scrap) that catches the surface chips and dust that escapes and doesn't go down.

But.. what I wanted to point out to you is I was amazed that even those steps didn't stop the dust until I did this..... I took campers double sided tape from Lowe's and sealed all the opening at the top.. bottom.. holes here and holes there. I have never seen so many opening with the space at the top between the table and base being the biggest culprit.

Again.. I can only speak for my saw.. but with all the cfm hitting mine (6" direct and 2 1/2" Shop Vac to over-head) the "beast" still slung.. spit and spewed sawdust from all those opening. Not until all those major and minor opening were shut up tight was the "beast tamed".

At this point... nothing short of great dust collection!

Good luck with your saw...

Sarge..

[Grant Vanbokklen]

John,
Do the newer saws do anything special inside the saw to direct dust flow?

[Jim Becker]

You'll want the port low on the cabinet so that it will pull material out from the "floor". (either the one in the saw or the one you put in the saw if it doesn't have one. Mounting on the motor cover may not get it down low enough. Now, if you are going to build a blade shroud of some sort, you have more flexibility...

[Chris Rosenberger]

The last Unisaw of that style I reworked. I cut a 4" hole below the motor opening about 1" above the plinth. I then put a piece of plywood, that I painted gray, inside of the cabinet. It layed on the ledge above the plinth. I had to put it in in 2 pieces to get it to fit tight. I then sealed the joint between the 2 pieces & around the cabinet with clear silicone caulking.

[John Thompson]

John,
Do the newer saws do anything special inside the saw to direct dust flow?

Afternoon Grant...

The port on the X-5 is located at the bottom dead center. There is a piece of sheet metal from the front of saw under the blade and arbors slanting rearward and leading down to the bottom center port. Sort of a gravity assist you might say.

The sheet metal is finished and has a nice slick surface. Might not seem relevant. but I blow my shop out frequently with an electric leaf blower. What I have noticed is that saw-dust on any surfaces that have a slick finish is more co-operative in leaving that surface.

The leaf blower I use is pretty powerful and even then, fine dust on a non-finished work-bench top is more stubborn from my observations. So.. if you go with a base as Rick mentioned, I would take time to paint it with a high gloss or put a couple of coats of poly on it to slick it out.

BTW.. I cut a piece of sheet metal to cover my angle slot the tilt rides in. I only rip on the saw and need 90 degrees so that close that opening. Till one day I decided to do an angle my SCMS wouldn't handle. Solution.. I went back and cut a slot in the home-made sheet metal front. Then put a $.99 clear table place mat behind it cut a slot with a razor blade for the angle mechanism to ride in. Screwed the front metal plate back on top and when you move the mechanism, the plastic opens and allows it to move and then closes back behind after the angle rod passes.

I know all that seems in-significant. But sometimes small details matter. Ask a race team that waxes a car just before a race. Every little detail contributes in the long haul IMO!

Sarge..