Crooked bathtub

[Frank Guerin]

It would seem the tub was not leveled anywhere close and when tile was layed on wall board they leveled it at the top then at the tub they had to to do some type of cut, file, snip to make it fit the tub. Of course the bottom small pieces of tile have fallen out, the wall board has rotted and I now need to fix the mess. I'm looking for answers that does not include removing the tub. In my all powering genious I fist thought of knocking out the tile and replacing wallboard with blueboard and (get this) putting up a surround with no pattern and trimming the bottom to fit the crooked tub. Alas and alack I find that trimming, cutting, butturing the surround in anyway form or fassion is not fessible. Any suggestions.
In my dreams, removing the tub is not an option. Spending a gazillion dollors is not an option. Getting the x-wife to quit hounding on me for more money is not an option.

[Jim O'Dell]

Frank, I tore the bathrooms at the previous house down to the studs, then used concrete backer board where tile would be, and sheet rock for the painted areas. After you get it torn out, you can level the tub. Then install the backer board, then the tile. Tile is not hard, just a little messy. Hardest part is the grout, and wall tile grout is easier than floor tile grout. Hang in there, it will work out! Just remember, sheet rock of any kind under tile is not an option! :eek: Jim.

[Frank Guerin]

Thanks for your reply but I don't know how I would level the tub without removing it. Very small bathroom.

[Jim O'Dell]

Most bathtubs are nailed or screwed into the studs on the wall sides of the tub. I pulled those nails out, and re-levelled the tub, then screwed into the studs. They do need some sort of support underneath, but what I did was cut an access hole in the sheetrock of the closet that was on the end opposite of the water spout/drain, and shoved a couple 2X4's under the main tub floor so it was secure. If installing new you would use a 1 gallon pail size glob of thick set morter, or 2, and set the tub into it. But it can be done without pulling the tub out. I suppose some of the yellow expandable foam could be used, too. It sets up pretty stiff, and would give some insulation properties to the tub as well. Jim.

[Frank Guerin]

Thanks Jim for the info. From just your response I'm already a 100% smarter. I am going to have think on this one a little more. One end of the tub has the air conditioning unit and the other end is an outside wall. I thought about removing the toilet and pulling the tub out that way but it may be sitting in a mortor bed. Perhaps plan a would be best=dynomite.

[Ben Grunow]

You could remove the course of tile that touches the tub (or the course above if the small pieces that touched the tub fell out-there should not be small pieces at the tub by the way. Tile is usually started on the tub and worked up to the top or ceiling making small cuts on the bottom of the tiles if the tub is out of level a bit) and the rotted backer board whatever it is. Replace the backer with a cement based backer and get some larger tiles to make the repair.

What I mean is that if after removing the first full course there is an 8" tall (varies because tub is out of level) gap, get some 8" tiles and make the repair (maybe need 10") by cutting them to the width of the rest of the tiles already there. This might not look so great if the tiles are ceramic as the edges tend to be slightly rough and sometimes the color of the inside of the tile (clay color) shows when cut. If they are marble or natural product then it should be great.

THe point is to get rid of the small pieces you mentioned at the tub. Making crooked cuts on taller tiles will show less than on short ones. Anything smaller than about 1" will be a problem at some point.

Good luck with the tiles (and the ex). Ben

[Ray Bersch]

Frank, it sounds like the ex-wife hired the tile guy just before she left!

It also sounds like you don't want to rip out all of the existing tile - but you need to repair the wet wall before it gets worse - depending on the extent of the damage, you may need to remove several courses of tile just to get a good repair of the wallboard - You didn't say how much out of level the tub is but I can't imagine it is much, so think of a way to trick the eye with some new tile: Example - lots of bath tile is 4x4, and there are lots of accent or boarder tiles @ 2x4 - find an accent tile that you like and plan on running two rows of them, one at the bottom by the tub and one a few courses up - in between you have a field - plan on solving the problem in this area by varying the grout lines or tile size. You can place the existing tile in the filed or you can get something new that compliments the old tile. Or, it may be possible to run just one course of accent tiles several courses up from the tub and still be able to make up the difference.

Ray

[Per Swenson]

I can't help you solve your problem because I am not there.

But I will tell you this.

Standard tub installation is not level. It is pitched towards the drain.

3/8 ths on 5 feet. When tiling a bathtub a ledger board is attached

level with your full tile, 8", 4", whatever on the drain side. You start with
the second couse level.

The first

course of tile is put in last. These are your cuts.

I hope this helps any one considering this.

Per

[Jim Bell]

Try drowning your ex-wife in the afore mentioned tub. It will still be crooked but you won't mind :D quite so much
Jim;)

[Frank Guerin]

Thankyou geantlemen for the replies. I am going to have to re-read them a few times. I should have at least tried to semi educate myself on this before asking question. I realize the tiles and wallboard will have to be removed. I was really hoping I could put up a plain three piecr surround and trim the bottom to fit the tub but that does not seem to be an option. From what little research I have done it was my understnding that the bottom ot the tub had the slope and the rails, edges, top were flat. I don't mind learning to do a little tile work. Still as dumb as I ever was.

[Ben Grunow]

Per- I have never seen a tub intentionally installed with pitch (I am a builder and do my own plumbing) toward the drain on the tub deck or surface where the tiles meet the top of the tub. All of the modern tubs made by american standard, kohler, toto etc. are designed so that when set, the plumber uses a level on the tub deck and the bottom of the tub is pitched to drain the water. This allows the tile to be started level (or close as the mfgr's tolerances for tubs is +/- about 1/8") and the water to drain. Maybe this is a regional thing? Where have you seen a tub set with pitch? Curious.

[Per Swenson]

Sorry Ben,

Should have been more specific.

Old cast Iron tubs where not pitched out of the factory.

You are correct that new tubs are pitched but not all.

Old tub installation the tub rests on a 2x4 nailed to the far wall.

Regional? Maybe, I can speak for Bergen,Passaic, Morris and Sussex county

New Jersey.

Per

We stay away from Americast.

[Ben Grunow]

Good. I was thinking that I was crazy or stupid or something not that I'm not a little of both. I have never seen (or noticed) the pitch in older tubs, that's interesting. I try to use a ripping of LVL to hang the tub on because when the 2x4 shrinks it can cause tile problems.

The only concern with the Americast tubs for me is avoiding abrasive cleaners like softscrub over time as it can dull the finish. People say they are prone to cracking but I have never seen that. Why do you stay away from them?

BTW, I am in Fairfield County, CT, not far so it's a good thing we are setting our tubs the same way.