Saw blade recommendation

[rodney mitchell]

First of all, I am newly registered to the forum although I have been reading a lot of posts and getting a lot of good information. I just bought a 6 year old unisaw and the blade that came with it needs replacing I think. I don't really want to spend the money right now for a forrest ww, but what other combination blades are out there that approach the ww in quality without the sticker shock? Thanks for any help!!

Rodney

[scott spencer]

Hi Rodney - Amazon has the Series 60 DeWalt DW7657 for $47 delivered after the 15% discount is applied at checkout. This blade is a super value and is about as close as you can get to a WWII anywhere near this price IMO. This is the blade that Wood compared favorably to the WWII.
http://ec3.images-amazon.com/images/P/B00008K2TZ.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
http://www.epinions.com/content_220309917316
http://ec3.images-amazon.com/images/P/B00008K2TZ.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

Holbren has some good blade deals too:

The Tenry RS25550 is a good 50T combo blade that's versatile...$50 shipped.
http://holbren.com/product.php?productid=125&cat=0&page=1
http://www.holbren.com/images/t_125.jpg

They also have the Ridge Carbide TS2000 blade that's at least as good as the WWII. Full for kerf for $80 delivered.
http://holbren.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=2

[Kelly C. Hanna]

If you are ripping only you would do well with a Freud blade from Rockler. They sell Glue Line Rip blades for around $64

[Russ Massery]

The thing I have learned is save your pennies. The forrest blade is well worth. You have great saw, it deserves a great blade. Mine almost never has come out. It cuts most everything really well.

[Don Baer]

Today I saw a local place with CMT blades for $49.00 I am looking for a glue line rip blade, anyone ever used one ?

[Mark Rios]

I've not used one by CMT but I LOVE my Freud Glue Liine Rip. I have 2, one for back-up. It's just too great, IMAO.


EDIT: I just read my post and my abbreviation of "In My Amateur Opinion", IMAO, looks an awful lot like LMAO. I apologize for the similarity and hope that i've not offended anyone in the months that I've used it.


:eek: :eek: :eek:

[Aaron Beaver]

Another vote for Forrest, love it. Also had a Freud first which has done me well.

[Dave Falkenstein]

From my experience, the combination blades "that approach the ww in quality" cost about the same as the WWII. For example, the Freud F410 is $84.44 at Amazon and the WWII is $96.02. If you look around you can usually find the WWII on sale. Try a Froogle search. A typical "street price" for the WWII is about $90. Do yourself a favor and buy the genuine article rather than spending a bunch of money on a compromise.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I love the Glue Line Rip...highly recommend it.

[christopher miller]

I have the Freud glue line rip , it does a great job as does their other blades . A great bang for the buck . BUT be aware that their blades are only 9-7/8" dia at least all of mine that i have measured .Dosen.t really matter unless you need that 1/8" . Chris

[rodney mitchell]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I was all ready to order one of the Freud combination blades because of it being on sale for thirty something at amazon, but it looks now like the sale is over. So.....I started reading the reviews on amazon for the Forrest combination blades. Wow, everyone seems to be thrilled with them. So, I guess I will go ahead and spring for one. Now, I am totally lost whether I should get the full kerf or thin kerf. My sawing will be about 40% sheet goods, 10% heavy exotic crosscut and rip (cocobolo, purple heart, etc.), and the rest crosscut and ripping yellow pine and oak, mostly 4/4, but some 8/4 in the oak. So, I don't know which kerf to get. Also, will woodcraft match amazon's out the door price? I will be in Fort Worth tomorrow and thought I might try that. Thanks a lot, this is a great forum.

Rodney

[Ron Jones near Indy]

Freud blades are very good. Forrest are just a little bit better.

[Gary Keedwell]

Rodney,

I would definetly get the full kerf. Thin kerf is designed for under-power saws~and a Unisaw is definetly NOT underpowered. lol

Gary K.

[Roy Wall]

Rodney,

The 1/8" kerf is the way to go....for what you spoke of.

Enjoy the WWII.....it's a great blade! (but the DW7657 is excellent - and a great 2nd blade to have)

[Bruce Wrenn]

Rodney,

I would definetly get the full kerf. Thin kerf is designed for under-power saws~and a Unisaw is definetly NOT underpowered. lol

Gary
Some of the Uni's came with a 1 1/2HP motor. I know as I have one in my shop.

[rodney mitchell]

Thanks everybody, looks like the 1/8 kerf would be better. I do have the 3 HP saw.

Rodney

[Dave Falkenstein]

Some of the Uni's came with a 1 1/2HP motor. I know as I have one in my shop.

A WWII full kerf blade would be my choice, even if the saw has a 1-1/2HP motor, and certainly if the saw has a 3HP motor.

[Don Baer]

I am ripping and cross cutting on the factory supplied blades on my jet cs. It's a 1 1/2 HP saw and I have ripped 8/4 hard maple with a standard curf blade and had no problems and no burning. A 3 HP with a good blade should cut it like butter. The reason I am looking for a glue line blade is to make edge jointing sticks easier.

[Mike Swindell]

I have been using FSTools blades for over 10 years and they are great commercial quality blades. Generous carbide tips provide years of sharpening.
I use this blade as a combo http://www.carbide.com/catalog/CTSB_details.cfm?ID=FST%2DL55250

and this fro rip http://www.carbide.com/catalog/CTSB_details.cfm?ID=FST%2DL21250%2DS
Great blades for under $50 bucks, another vendor which only the commercial shops know about. I live in Southern California and get next day delivery.

The rip blade in 1 1/2 mahogany provides a glue up joint - good thing as I don't have room for a jointer.

Mike

[Greg Koch]

I really like my Tenryu Gold Medal combo blade... I think even a bit better than my WWII. Quieter and seems a bit smoother, but the WWII is nice and makes a great back-up.

[Tom Jones III]

Sorry to state the obvious but since you are new here I thought you might also be new to wood working. You do know that you can get the blade sharpened? Assuming an old blade will probably need a tooth or two replaced expect $15 for a good sharpening service.

[glenn bradley]

My Freud (about $50) does a better job than my WWII. Although I'm glad to have it for general purpose stuff when I'm doing a lot of material breakdown; when I want a good clean cut I reach for the Freuds. The WWII is supposed to be superior and has tested as such in various mags. My experience differs. Bear in mind I am running a 1HP contractor style saw where as you have a real saw.

[rodney mitchell]

Yeah, I hadn't thought of that really. Where is a good place to send them to? I live in a small town and no one here does it.

RM




Sorry to state the obvious but since you are new here I thought you might also be new to wood working. You do know that you can get the blade sharpened? Assuming an old blade will probably need a tooth or two replaced expect $15 for a good sharpening service.

[Mark Rios]

My Freud (about $50) does a better job than my WWII. Although I'm glad to have it for general purpose stuff when I'm doing a lot of material breakdown; when I want a good clean cut I reach for the Freuds. The WWII is supposed to be superior and has tested as such in various mags. My experience differs. Bear in mind I am running a 1HP contractor style saw where as you have a real saw.


Glen, I have the same opinion/experience exactly. When I had mine (I've since sold it), the couple of times that I cut with it it was just okay. I would think of my Freud blades first though when working out how I was going to makes cuts for any given project. I wonder if it's the power of the saw. I've only got a horse or maybe a horse and a half also. I have to believe that it's a great blade in general though because so many folks like it and swear by it. I just wasn't too impressed by it.

[Allen Bookout]

Yeah, I hadn't thought of that really. Where is a good place to send them to? I live in a small town and no one here does it.

RM
Rodney,

Sometimes it helps to have your general location listed in your personal information with a question like that so that guys closer to where you live can steer you in the right direction. I have seen Scott Whiting, a member here, recommended if you live around the Phoenix area or are willing to send it to him. Here is a thread asking about that. I did a search and the results are kind of hard to come up with. I have listed a link below if you are interested. His contact number is listed down the thread a ways on a post by Scott himself. You may want to start a new thread asking this question to get more responses, especially if you want someone near you that is good. I remember guys around Atlanta recommending someone also. I am sure that there are more.

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=39446&highlight=sharpen+blade

[rodney mitchell]

Hey Allen, thanks for the info. I am in the north central Texas area and will start a new thread to maybe find someone in the Wichita Falls or Dallas/Fort Worth area.

RM


Rodney,

Sometimes it helps to have your general location listed in your personal information with a question like that so that guys closer to where you live can steer you in the right direction. I have seen Scott Whiting, a member here, recommended if you live around the Phoenix area or are willing to send it to him. Here is a thread asking about that. I did a search and the results are kind of hard to come up with. I have listed a link below if you are interested. His contact number is listed down the thread a ways on a post by Scott himself. You may want to start a new thread asking this question to get more responses, especially if you want someone near you that is good. I remember guys around Atlanta recommending someone also. I am sure that there are more.

http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=39446&highlight=sharpen+blade

[Howard Acheson]

If you think the Forrest is the best, that is what you should get.

Think of it this way. The excellent saw you purchased has only one real purpose--to turn a sawblade. It's the sawblade that gives you good cuts, not the saw. You can put a new, top quality blade on a lousy saw and you will get good cuts. Put a lousy blade on a great saw and you will get lousy cuts. In other words, a good and sharp blade is more important than a top notch saw. Get the best you you can.

[rodney mitchell]

Well, I ended up getting the WW II from woodcraft. They came within a couple of dollars of Amazon's price. Thanks everyone for your response. I eventually will get a ripping blade and probably will try Freud for that one. There seems to be a lot of happy Freud owners out there also.

RM

[Roger Meeker]

I've been using the Freud G-L-R blade, LU87R010, which is a thin kerf. I don't seem to see it around much, but it has worked great for me both ripping and crosscutting. About $40.

Anybody else use or try this blade?

[Alan DuBoff]

Glen, I have the same opinion/experience exactly. When I had mine (I've since sold it), the couple of times that I cut with it it was just okay. I would think of my Freud blades first though when working out how I was going to makes cuts for any given project. I wonder if it's the power of the saw. I've only got a horse or maybe a horse and a half also. I have to believe that it's a great blade in general though because so many folks like it and swear by it. I just wasn't too impressed by it.Wow, you have the same opinion, not even knowing what type of Freud blade Glen has (at least he didn't say).

Do you know if he was using a crosscut blade to rip? Do you know that a WWII is a combination blade that is not specific to one task?

Let me ask you something, how many actual board feet have you cut with each blade Mark? Really, I'm curious how much actual experience you have with each blade and what makes you make such claims. Saying you think a Freud blade is much better than a Forrest is fine, but please let us know how you have come to that conclusion.

What type of saw are you using it on? Which exact model blades? What type of wood? What type of cut to the wood? (i.e., crosscut, rip, bevels, dados, tenons, raised panels, etc...). There's a whole boat load of fudge factors involved here, and I was just curious how you came to your conclusion.

[scott spencer]

Wow, you have the same opinion, not even knowing what type of Freud blade Glen has (at least he didn't say).

Do you know if he was using a crosscut blade to rip? Do you know that a WWII is a combination blade that is not specific to one task?

Let me ask you something, how many actual board feet have you cut with each blade Mark? Really, I'm curious how much actual experience you have with each blade and what makes you make such claims. Saying you think a Freud blade is much better than a Forrest is fine, but please let us know how you have come to that conclusion.

What type of saw are you using it on? Which exact model blades? What type of wood? What type of cut to the wood? (i.e., crosscut, rip, bevels, dados, tenons, raised panels, etc...). There's a whole boat load of fudge factors involved here, and I was just curious how you came to your conclusion.


Alan raises a good point. The term "Freud blade" encompasses several dozen models of different quality levels and different intended applications at different price points....same is true of many companies (DeWalt, Oldham, Tenryu, Irwin). Freud makes many fine blades, and many intended more for the value conscious. I've used Freud blades that don't cut as cleanly as my WWII but rip like a mother (LM72), and Freud crosscut blades that give results like a baby's bottom, but that'll burn in a heartbeat on a rip cut (F810). I've used others that give the WWII a run for the money until the heavier ripping starts (LU88). I've even used Freud combo blades (LU84) that didn't work as well for me as the WWII, but I've never had the pleasure of using the Freud proclaimed equivalent of the WWII, the F410. If it's not apples to apples, it's a pretty vague comparison.

[Alan DuBoff]

Alan raises a good point. The term "Freud blade" encompasses several dozen models of different quality levels and different intended applications at different price points....same is true of many companies (DeWalt, Oldham, Tenryu, Irwin). Freud makes many fine blades, and many intended more for the value conscious. I've used Freud blades that don't cut as cleanly as my WWII but rip like a mother (LM72), and Freud crosscut blades that give results like a baby's bottom, but that'll burn in a heartbeat on a rip cut (F810). I've used others that give the WWII a run for the money until the heavier ripping starts (LU88). I've even used Freud combo blades (LU84) that didn't work as well for me as the WWII, but I've never had the pleasure of using the Freud proclaimed equivalent of the WWII, the F410. If it's not apples to apples, it's a pretty vague comparison.Absolutely, and this was part of my thinking.

I'm still curious to hear how Mark compared the Freud to the Forrest. I happen to feel that the Forrest blades are excellent blades, just that for a hobbyist as myself, they're a tad on the expensive side. But my comparisons are apples to apples, and unless one compares a combination blade to a combination blade, I'm not sure what that would prove.

The blade, the type of cut one is making, and the type of wood one cuts with it all have a factor in the results, IMO.

[Mark Rios]

Well, Alan, I'm not really sure why you are such an angry person and why you seem to direct that anger at me. I'm not sure what I've ever done to you to make you so vehement toward me. I'm just a bonehead trying to make a living and enjoy it while I do it. If you are that much better of a person than I am to where you feel it necessary to put me down to somehow make your self feel better then I apologize for sharing YOUR bandwidth.

However, to answer your blades questions. My post was merely to agree and share an opinion that another member had posted. We both find that, while the WWII is a great blade, we both like the cuts we get with other blades better for some different types of cutting.

I purchased my WWII on the recommendations and testimonials of the other members. I had also read the posts and testimonials of some other folks here who have echoed Glenns sentiments; Some folks here also find that they get better results with another manufacturers blades or different styles of blades. Different strokes for different folks, as the saying goes. Some like the blade and swear by it and some don't. That doesn't make one person better or worse than another because of their blade of choice that fits their own personal woodworking skills and style. I feel absolutely NO ill will for other, much more experienced, people here who find that the WWII does a terrific and excellent job at what they need it to do.

I purchased the WWII to see how it would fit my woodworking skills and style. I have used a number of different Freud blades as well as a few from different manufacturers. As a matter of fact, I have ripped many hundreds of feet of material with my different manufacterers blades. I don't happen to do a lot of crosscutting with my table saw however I find that I have been doing more and more in the last year or so. When I need VERY clean rips in solid hardwood, as opposed to plywood, I've found that with my equipment I seem to get the best results with one of my three Freud Glue Line Rips. I happen to like the results that I get with that blade so that's what I buy. I also have a couple of Freuds 24 tooth versions of the GLR for ripping thicker stock. I didn't know how it would work for me so I bought one, tried it, found that it worked well for me in thicker stock (just as the website nomenclature says) and so I bought a couple.

I've got blades for ripping green, construction material and blades for cutting plywood. I've even tried using a 10" blade that I have for my 10" Skil wormdrive saw (BigFoot) but those blades didn't seem to work out so well on the table saw. :D

The WWII, while a great blade, just didn't do for me what it apparently does for you. I get less tearout, without a ZCI, with a dedicated plywood crosscut blade and, when I need it, an extremely smooth ripped edge that is ready for glue without additional dressing. I have found that, personally, I would rather change blades and get the exact cut that I'm looking for to do the particular job at hand rather than use just one blade and not have the particular cut that I'm looking for. I'm not sure that makes me a bad person.

Now, after going back and reading parts of this thread I see that while you find it necessary and quite easy to jump on me for simply echoing an opinion of another member, you have NO harsh tones or scalding words for the person who actually had the original opinion. Glenn is the one who categorically stated that
My Freud (about $50) does a better job than my WWII.

I'm sorry if you got confused.

[Alan DuBoff]

I purchased the WWII to see how it would fit my woodworking skills and style. I have used a number of different Freud blades as well as a few from different manufacturers. As a matter of fact, I have ripped many hundreds of feet of material with my different manufacterers blades. I don't happen to do a lot of crosscutting with my table saw however I find that I have been doing more and more in the last year or so.What I got out of your post was that you mostly rip on your table saw, and find a rip blade does in fact rip better than a combination blade like the WWII.

Interesting how you used the WWII a couple times previously, and you've ripped hundreds of bf withit now.

I'm not angry at you at all, not sure why you feel that way. Just because I take some of your comments with a grain of salt doesn't mean I'm angry. At least you didn't shout at me with 22 point bold font.

[Mark Rios]

What I got out of your post was that you mostly rip on your table saw, and find a rip blade does in fact rip better than a combination blade like the WWII.

Interesting how you used the WWII a couple times previously, and you've ripped hundreds of bf withit now.

I'm not angry at you at all, not sure why you feel that way. Just because I take some of your comments with a grain of salt doesn't mean I'm angry. At least you didn't shout at me with 22 point bold font.


Not angry?....Then perhaps you can explain, Alan, why WHATEVER I post you have to try to find fault with it. At least it's only one point this time. I will try to elucidate for you.

My statements are not contradictory. I have, in fact, ripped hundreds of board feet with my different manufacturers blades, as a total, en masse. However, I found that after ripping a couple of dozen of BF with the WWII, I found that the blade didn't happen to suit me. When I cross cut with it, it was good but, as I stated, I don't do a high percentage of crosscutting. It just didn't fill my needs, just like a number of other people in SMC and all over the world. What in the world is wrong with that?

But Alan......Why do CONTINUE to have to find fault with me and nitpick at everything that I post? Why don't you address why you criticise me for agreeing with someone's opinion but you do not have any problem with the person who had the opinion originally? Why are you so focused on me?

If you don't like me or what I post and it bothers you SO badly, then pleae utilize the ignore feature so that you don't subject the whole group of members to your selfish and petty little feelings about someone you don't even know.

Just a suggestion.

[Alan DuBoff]

Not angry?....Then perhaps you can explain, Alan, why WHATEVER I post you have to try to find fault with it. At least it's only one point this time. I will try to elucidate for you.No reason to get excited because I don't favor your opinion.

I've watched some of the escapades, like you cross posting information about the Jet fiasco all over the web, and I've watched your overzealous posts about mis-information of recent.

A general statement about Freud blades being better than Forrest is yet another example, and I think it's a mis-service to all when someone does that, myself included.

If you don't like me or what I post and it bothers you SO badly, then pleae utilize the ignore feature so that you don't subject the whole group of members to your selfish and petty little feelings about someone you don't even know.

Just a suggestion.Thanks for the suggestion. My feelings aren't selfish and petty, so please don't resort to name calling.

[Allen Bookout]

Has anyone tried the blades from Infinity? I have quite a few of their router bits and they are very high quality so I am guessing that might be the case with their blades also.

I know that the origional question was about combination blades but I need a rip blade and am considering the Infinity but would appreicate some input first.

Thanks! Allen

[Mark Rios]

Has anyone tried the blades from Infinity? I have quite a few of their router bits and they are very high quality so I am guessing that might be the case with their blades also.

I know that the origional question was about combination blades but I need a rip blade and am considering the Infinity but would appreicate some input first.

Thanks! Allen


No, I haven't yet tried an Infinity Blade Allen, thanks very much for the reminder though. I'll order one up and give it a try.

For hardwood I sure do like the Freud GLR though. For dedicated ripping it's my go to blade. For plywood, I recently bought Freuds "Ultimate Plywood & Melamine" blade, LU80R010. For me, it cuts (rips and crosscuts) mighty sweet in "regular" type hardwood plywoods like oak and maple. I'm going to be cutting some mahogany plywood here soon and I'm looking forward to seeing how it cuts in that.

However, I'm sure that there are folks here that have more experience than I do that may have better recommendations. Maybe some of the great cabinet builders here that are cutting plywood all day long will give their recommendations.

I think I remember that Tod Evans likes a certain industrial blade manufacturer but I don't remember the name. Perhaps he can chime in and let you know.

hth

[Roy Wall]

I think I remember that Tod Evans likes a certain industrial blade manufacturer but I don't remember the name. Perhaps he can chime in and let you know.

hth

I believe Tod uses AMANA BLADES... I have one, a 50 tooth combo....and will probably give it a go when the WWII needs a re-sharpening.

[Mark Rios]

I believe Tod uses AMANA BLADES... I have one, a 50 tooth combo....and will probably give it a go when the WWII needs a re-sharpening.

Well, I'm sure you're right, thanks Roy. Leave it to me to mess it up. :D

Someone else then likes some sort of industrial blade. Maybe we'll here from that person.

Thanks again.

[tod evans]

guess i`ve been summoned? yeah i use ammana blades BUT, i do not like combination blades regardless of the manufacturer. it really doesn`t take that long to switch blades and i believe (after untold thousands of feet) that using the correct blade for the job makes a lot of sense..
rip blades by their very nature regardless of manufacturer are cheaper than crosscuts, less carbide involved. if a fellow is running a 3hp saw or larger and cutting veneered sheetgoods on it try the blade i like on my miterbox, brand doesn`t matter, an 80 tooth neg. rake nonferrous metal blade, most come with a tripple chip grind. you`ll get acceptable results ripping and crosscutting plywood and when you`re done you can use it on your chopsaw.....02 tod

[edit] mark, the other blades i use are prazisa from germany. when i finally wore out my ol` wisconson knifeworks dado set after almost 20 years they where no longer in production so i went with an everlast brand that cg schmidt recomended and it`s doing fine. most of the blade manufacturers make good stuff and now a days with cnc grinding blades are really consistent. carbide technology has really improved in just the last 6-7 years and most name brand blade manufacturers are using good stuff. so pick a brand then learn which blades they make work for you.

[scott spencer]

... For plywood, I recently bought Freuds "Ultimate Plywood & Melamine" blade, LU80R010. For me, it cuts (rips and crosscuts) mighty sweet in "regular" type hardwood plywoods like oak and maple. I'm going to be cutting some mahogany plywood here soon and I'm looking forward to seeing how it cuts in that.

hth The LU80R010 is the former F810 which I've tried. I think it'll be difficult to find a significantly cleaner cutting blade than that one, or one of similar lineage from a quality manufacture. It has the Hi-ATB teeth like those on the Amana MB-10-800, and Forrest Duraline. The Hi-aTB teeth are more likely to dull faster than the TCG teeth on the non-ferrous metal blades that Tod likes though, but they have more sheering and scoring action than other grinds.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I own Forrest WWII, Freud combo, Oldham combo, Oldham general purpose. Personally I find my self using the Freud the most. For what a Forrest costs, it looks like they could put a piece of vapor emiting paper in box to prevent that nasty waffle pattern that comes from contact with cardboard sleeve. When I go to production shops, seldom if ever, do I see a Forrest blade. I guess these guys who run a saw for 8-10 hours per day, don't need the quality of a Forrest blade. I have a DeWalt 80 tooth blade that was designed for a sliding miter saw, that I have cut up a couple hundred sheets of 3/4 ply for cabinets. I bought it at DeWalt store on clearance for 20 bucks. One day, I will have to get it sharpened, but not yet. I don't think there is much difference in the quality of cut when using any premium blade. These are strictly my opinions.