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View Full Version : Perfomax 16-32 Ammeter Installation



Curt Harms
07-23-2006, 12:48 PM
Hi All

When I first got the Performax, I tripped the motor overload swich a few times, just couldn't tell how much of a load the motor was under. I believe that when one of these overloads protectors trip a number of times, they get weak and trip before the motor is really overloaded. I decided that one way to not overload the motor was to install an ammeter so I could monitor the load.

The ammeters that I found that were direct reading seemed like they might not stand up to repeated current surges from a motor/sanding drum combination starting, so how to keep the starting surge out of the Ammeter? An ammeter using a shunt setup might stand up to starting surges, but I wasn't that clear on how to use a shunt setup or where to find one for cheap. The schematic, such as it is, shows what I came up with. A motor rated toggle switch that when in one position routes current past the ammeter.
When in the other position, it routes current through the ammeter. I can't see any way for current to bypass the ammeter when the ammeter is selected. My procedure is to start with the toggle swtich in the ammeter bypass position, let the sander come up to speed, then switch the toggle to ammeter read position. I can't detect any lag or hesitancy in the sander when switching. I don't switch it while under load.

I also ran the output from the toggle switch/ammeter combination to a 20 amp. outlet mounted in the gray box. This way, I can plug any 115 volt device, i.e. router, saw or whatever and see what the amp draw is on the machine while in use. A harbor freight clamp-on meter would have been easier, but i thought that impractical for extended use.

One thing that sorta surprised me was that the Performax draws about 9-10 amps while idling, and the motor is rated to draw 13 amps. I would not have suspected a motor would draw 2/3 of it's rated amperage without doing anything useful. I did check the ammeter against a clamp-on unit and they were within 5% or less. The setup does work well. I can vary the feed speed to keep the ammeter right on 13 amps, and haven't tripped the overload since I rigged this up.

The parts involved are basic except for the ammeter. I found that on the auction site. The box, box connecters and power cord are from a borg. I had to go to an electrical supply house to find a suitable motor-rated toggle switch.

Comments and criticism are welcome. Trying to burn the house down?:eek:


Curt

tod evans
07-23-2006, 1:50 PM
very smart curt! lotsa folks have no idea how hard sanding is on a motor..02 tod

John Bush
07-23-2006, 3:06 PM
Hi Curt,
I tend to be a little impatient and found that I was tripping the overload breaker all too often when using my Performax. This seems like a great solution. If possible, could you give specifics on the specs and brand of ampmeter you found/recommend, where you found it, and what we could expect to spend for the whole set-up.

I did see a drum sander that had an ampmeter/box simply mounted on the power cord, but that was before I got mine and didn't understand the significance until I began running boards thru mine.
Good job on the modifications and thanks for the info. JCB.

Curt Harms
07-23-2006, 7:33 PM
Hi Curt,
I tend to be a little impatient and found that I was tripping the overload breaker all too often when using my Performax. This seems like a great solution. If possible, could you give specifics on the specs and brand of ampmeter you found/recommend, where you found it, and what we could expect to spend for the whole set-up.

Sorry, I don't remember which Ebay vender had it. The thing to look for is at least 15 amps, AC (there's lots of DC units) and direct reading. Ammeters that read higher loads 50 amps-and up-use a shunt. A shunt is a thing that looks like a bar that generates a very low level voltage when current flows through it. The ammeter in this case if really a sensitive voltmeter calibrated to read in amps (I think this is how it works. An EE I am not) Here is one possibility: ebay item # 130005828764. If I were buying this, I'd ask the seller if this is indeed a direct reading meter, doesn't use a shunt. Figure $25 for a meter, $4 for a switch, about $5 for a box, $5-$8 for a cord and plug, $5 for an outlet. Don't hold me to these numbers, I did this a while ago. It also depends on what's in the parts box.

I did see a drum sander that had an ampmeter/box simply mounted on the power cord, but that was before I got mine and didn't understand the significance until I began running boards thru mine.
Good job on the modifications and thanks for the info. JCB.

Sorry, I don't remember which Ebay vender had it. The thing to look for in meters is at least 15 amps, AC (there's lots of DC units) and direct reading. Ammeters that read higher loads 50 amps-and up-use a shunt. A shunt is a thing that looks like a bar that generates a very low level voltage when current flows through it. The ammeter in this case if really a sensitive voltmeter calibrated to read in amps (I think this is how it works. An EE I am not) Here is one possibility: ebay item # 130005828764. If I were buying this, I'd ask the seller if this is indeed a direct reading meter, doesn't use a shunt. Figure $25 for a meter, $4 for a switch, about $5 for a box, $5-$8 for a cord and plug, $5 for an outlet. Don't hold me to these numbers, I did this a while ago. It also depends on what's in the parts box.

Thanks for Looking

Curt