another zero insert question

[Brad Hammond]

so i'm trying my first oak insert for my table saw and i'm having problems.

here's what's wrong. when ever i get to a certian point on the oval where i'm against the grain with the router it jumps and makes an awful noise and splits the wood. doesnt matter if i try to climb cut or flip the piece on the template. i finally made one out of birch ply, but i was wondering how you guys get around this.
thanx
brad

[Jim Becker]

I use the router for this using pattern techniques when I'm using MDF (most often for TS inserts) or plywood, but would probably use my combo sander with hardwood to sneak up on the profile after roughing on the bandsaw. Oak and other species, by their very nature, can chip out when routing tight corners like this so I just avoid it for something of this utility. I kinda like the MDF since it's so inexpensive and I don't get grumpy if I throw a well-used piece out!

[Bruce Page]

Brad, Jim is right on (no big suprize there :p ), cut the radius on your nice new BS and finish them off with a disk or belt sander. You need a good fit, but it doesn't have to be perfect.

[Bob Lasley]

Brad,

Not a guaranteed fix for your chip out problems with the router, but I have found using a spiral flush trim bit helps alot. You can also make a template rig for your disc sander, although you have to use undersize templates. Another alternative is to use pattern sanding drums on the drill press. These drums have a bearing just like a flush trim router bit.

Good luck,
Bob

[Brad Hammond]

great suggestions!
i'll try them.........thanx so much all!

[Doug Jones]

I don't know if I'm too late to reply or not. What I do is simular to most that have replied, except I use my jig saw to get a close cut (no bandsaw), then use my belt sander to "sneak" up to the exact fit. I also had to put my circular saw blade into the table saw to start the saw blade clearance cut. My regular table saw blade set to high to start out with.

Good luck