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Pete Simmons
07-20-2006, 5:50 PM
Here is a photo of a logo inlayed on a Maple pen box with 3 different woods.

Walnut, Bubinga and Maple.

Only showed top part of box so as not to display the persons name who will be getting this.

http://woodpenman.com/images/temp/WMSlogo.jpg

Shaddy Dedmore
07-20-2006, 5:56 PM
What was the order in which you cut/inlayed? All at once?

Shaddy

Keith Outten
07-20-2006, 6:01 PM
Pete,

You sure have got the hang of inlay work. I wonder if we could convince you to write an article about laser cutting inlays?

No Pressure :)

Joe Pelonio
07-20-2006, 6:16 PM
I'll second Keith's request, I'd love to try it if I ever get any time.
Beautiful work!

Pete Simmons
07-20-2006, 8:01 PM
Shaddy - The Walnut and Bubinga are done together 3 pieces of each. Then the Maple S is done.

I like to use wood about 0.070 thick for inlay. Cuts easily and inlays nice.

I raster out the W M combo to about 0.030 deep. Glue in the 6 pieces. Let dry for about 20 minutes. Sand down (not to a finish smooth ) but OK smooth. Then raster cut the S and inlay the pieces of Maple for the S.

Let that dry and sand it all down smooth and refinish the lid. Two coats of wipe on poly and beall buff.

Keith - I am not much of a writer but this just about sums it up. I could add to the above.

1. Be accurate with registeration for the 2 raster cuts.

2. Get comfortable with convert outline to object in Corel to make the vector cut graphics.

3. Get comfortable with Corel layers. These each have their own layer -

MW Raster
S Raster
M Vector
W Vector
S Vector
Text
Alignment square

4. Ken Nelsen taught me to quit looking for thin wood as it is difficult to find anything <0.125 and planning wood this thin does not work well. Instead I slice thin layers off using a sled on a table saw. Can get 0.070 without to much trouble and for most inlays you can get a piece large enough to work.

Lee DeRaud
07-20-2006, 8:10 PM
The one thing I'm not understanding is why the "WM" is rastered separately from the "S"...
is it just to keep the walnut/bubinga sanding dust out of the maple?

Pete Simmons
07-20-2006, 8:29 PM
Lee: Just seems easier that way. If all 3 were rastered together there would be more small pieces for the MW vector cutting.

Lee DeRaud
07-20-2006, 8:37 PM
Lee: Just seems easier that way. If all 3 were rastered together there would be more small pieces for the MW vector cutting.Ok. I figured once you had multiple pieces for any given letter, having more wouldn't be that much harder.

And I guess I'd rather deal with more inlay pieces than with the registration issue of doing the raster in two steps: seems like no matter how careful I am putting it back in the machine, it's off by enough to show.

Brent Vander Weil
07-20-2006, 11:55 PM
I would DEFINATELY love to read/own that one... the reason I stumbled on laser was due to the fact I was looking into doing inlay... and viola now I am a "laser head" LOL

Dave Jones
07-21-2006, 7:09 PM
Any chance of an extreme closup image?

Pete Simmons
07-21-2006, 7:19 PM
No close up of that one. It went to the customer today.

They ordered another one on the spot. I will see what I can do for a photo with the next one.

John Miliunas
07-21-2006, 7:35 PM
So I'm not a laser dude myself but, I venture over here every now and again. Really glad I did today!!! :) That is way cool, Pete! Very, very nice, my friend! :) :cool:

Dave Jones
07-21-2006, 7:55 PM
Pete, do you cut the veneer upside down? (the part facing down when cut is facing up in the finished piece?)

What kind of glue did you use?

Pete Simmons
07-21-2006, 8:11 PM
All pieces cut right side up. I have heard up side down works better but have not tried it. I adjust the size of only the lower corner of the S up by about 5%. Note that piece turns out to be just a small rectangle and it comes out a little small if not enlarged.

Glue is just Titebond wood glue.

tod evans
07-22-2006, 7:47 AM
pete, i`ve never driven a lazer but i`ve done a fair amount of inlay, and must say you`ve done a very nice job! tod

Pete Simmons
11-20-2006, 8:42 AM
Dave -

Here is a close up of another one of these boxes.


http://www.woodpenman.com/images/wmscloseup.jpg

George M. Perzel
11-20-2006, 10:41 AM
Hi Pete;
Very nice job-excellent detail.
Best regards;
George
LaserArts

Richard Rumancik
11-20-2006, 5:58 PM
Pete

Very nice work. A few questions:

You said "Get comfortable with convert outline to object in Corel to make the vector cut graphics." Do you mind elaborating on this statement? Could you take it step-by-step as to how you go from the TrueType font (or vector logo) to get the vector file you need for cutting the inlay?

How are you compensating for beam width so there is no gap between the recessed bitmap and the vector cut inlay?

Richard

Pete Simmons
11-20-2006, 6:36 PM
I do the raster work then make other layers, 1 for each letter, I call them vectorm,w,s ...etc.

I then copy the correct letter to the vector layer. This way I can leave the positioning of the raster work alone and move the vector cut letters around as I need to fit the thin wood I use.

Then I convert a font letter to curves
Make outline an object.

Make the object a hairline and they are ready to cut.

As far as adjusting the size to allow for the cut -
The M and W work fine as is.

I play around with the S pieces sometimes using scale and increasing both vert and horiz 2 or 3 %.
On the small bottom left of the S I use the shape tool and move the nodes of the corners around a little to get a good fit.

Like most things it is easy to do after you do a few.

Oh yes, Vector cutting table - No Way. I cut the small pieces out with a scrape of wood under them so I do not lose the small pieces.
Then I use the sharp point of an X-acto knife to gently move the small pieces into position to glue.

I put a nice Baron pen in the box, Engrave the customers name and sell them as corp gifts for just under $100 including tax.

Chris Cordina
11-20-2006, 9:44 PM
What glue do you use? I have tried inlay but when I go to glue the inlay it will not stick because of the resin in the recess after burning.

George M. Perzel
11-21-2006, 7:47 AM
Hi Chris;
Check out this link on inlaying. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=45971
Use a non-waterbased glue (I use UHU craft glue-clear, good tack). Water based glue will cause the veneer to swell and pop out of the cavity.
Good luck
george

Chris Cordina
11-21-2006, 10:52 PM
Thanks, I have tried hot poly but that sounds alot faster and easier. Chris.