Router DC and heat dissipation

[Tom Jones III]

I've built a very minimalist router table and I am about to add DC to it. Once upon a time there was a thread talking about heat dissipation, routers and how improper DC would keep the router from getting air to cool the motor. Does anyone know anything about this?

I've got the big Milwaukee router and was thinking of enclosing only the top portion where you would normall reach in to change the bits but I'm concerned that it would keep air from going down through the vents.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

When I built my router table, I started out with a door in the front that I could open to unlock the router for height adjustments, but I soon had to drill some holes in said door for airflow.

Most people make their tables too air tight, that is where I think the over heating trouble comes from.

Mine has a TON of airflow, and I get next to no dust or chips leaving my table.

43146
No holes

43147
Lots of holes :D

No over heating problems at all.

Cheers!

[Mark Rios]

As Stu mentions, the air needs to be pulled THROUGH the router box for proper DC. This also pulls air across the router, thereby cooling it. Otherwise, if the DC has to work to get air into the box, you are essentially pulling a vacuum. The more airtight the box, the more vacuum created.





On a related note, if the ambient air temp is too cold, say <32 degrees, the air being pulled across the router will freeze the router and then you will have to wait 'till spring to continue your router project. Oh.....no wait.........:D

[Julio Navarro]

Like Stu, except I used perforated peg board on the back of the router compartment.

[glenn bradley]

I also have the 5625. I made sure that the "holes" into my DC box had a bit more area than that of my exit port, 4" (12.56 sq in) in my case. Two 3/4" by 11" slots (16.5 sq in total) on the left and right of the box at the router plate level create a nice airflow . . . in the slots (and the bit opening), past the router and out the bottom dust port. This combined with the fence mounted dust port keep things nice and clean while providing a good airspace (in the box) for the router motor to draw from.

P.s. I used pegboard for the door panel but found that too much air was entering the box undirected. I sealed this with a piece of luan from the back so I still get to use the peg board for my wrenches and micro adjuster storage. When I make the "real" one I'll probably go solid panel in the door wth hooks.

[Jerry Olexa]

I just got a 5625 so thanx for the tip. Norm on his NYW deluxe router table has lots of holes in the front access door. Now we know why...:)

[Bill Pentz]

I've built a very minimalist router table and I am about to add DC to it. Once upon a time there was a thread talking about heat dissipation, routers and how improper DC would keep the router from getting air to cool the motor. Does anyone know anything about this?

I've got the big Milwaukee router and was thinking of enclosing only the top portion where you would normall reach in to change the bits but I'm concerned that it would keep air from going down through the vents.

Tom,

Also you need to ensure your port for the area the router is mounted in has at least 4" clearance from the top of the router. Otherwise you can pull the air away from the router cooling fan. That can create enough heat to cause the router to "let the smoke out".

bill

[Tom Jones III]

Tom,
Also you need to ensure your port for the area the router is mounted in has at least 4" clearance from the top of the router. Otherwise you can pull the air away from the router cooling fan. That can create enough heat to cause the router to "let the smoke out".
bill

That is exactly what I was wondering about. I was hoping to build an enclosure for ONLY the top portion of the router. It sounds like I really have to put the entire router in a box and then make sure that I'm getting good airflow through the box.