qestion from wooden handplane makers

[Zahid Naqvi]

I recently finished my first Krenov style wooden plane, couple of questions in that regard.

1. Do you apply any finish on the plane once all else is done. I am thinking an unfinished plane will provide a better grip.
2. How about the bottom, should I wax it. I personally prefer not to, even on metallic planes, for fear of transfering wax to the work piece.

P.S. for the pic police pictures of the plane in the post above.

[Dick Latshaw]

1. Do you apply any finish on the plane once all else is done. I am thinking an unfinished plane will provide a better grip.
I leave mine unfinished.



2. How about the bottom, should I wax it. I personally prefer not to, even on metallic planes, for fear of transfering wax to the work piece.
I don't wax the bottoms either. With use, the bottoms will become slick as glass - at least all of my hard maple ones have.

[Lars Thomas]

Zahid, when I made a wood plane recently (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36090), I also didn't know what to finish it with. After posting on the creek, I went with BLO. and it looks good. However, you certainly don't NEED to put any finish on it. IT will develope a nice patina over time.

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

I put two thin coats of shellac on mine, then waxed it. I don't care for either the feel or the look of unfinished planes. For the sole, I only waxed it.

Steve Knight does some finish on his, but I'm not sure what.

[Harold Beck]

Zahid,

I took mine to the buffing wheel and buffed and put a coat of carnuba wax on the top and sides.

Worked fine for me.

HB

[Pam Niedermayer]

I put no finish anywhere on my Japanese dai. Now, they may get a bit burnished from using Japanese planes to make them, but even that effect on the Japanese white oak and hon red oak is not significant.

Pam

[Zahid Naqvi]

(http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36090), I also didn't know what to finish it with. After posting on the creek, I went with BLO. and it looks good. However, you certainly don't NEED to put any finish on it. IT will develope a nice patina over time.

Lars, I saw your plane earlier, it is phenominal. The patina is what I am after. I have sweaty hands and any slick finish will hinder my grip. I am thinking it needs to stay as it is.

[Jim Hinze]

Some I finish with BLO or Seal-a-Cell (couple of coats) then wax the sole, others I just wax the sole.. a lot depends on the wood. Exotics I'll leave be (e.g. purpleheart), domestics I tend to finish.

[Bob Smalser]

Sure it benefits to finish it.

A good finishing material slows down the transfer of moisture in and out with the seasons and prevents glue and goo sticking to the plane, for those who use them hard.

Woodies like to crack after a number of years, and either boat soup and wax or wiping varnish will go a long way to prevent it.

[Zahid Naqvi]

Bob, you are the authority when it comes to hand tools, so I'll listen to your advice. I don't have boat soup or wiping varnish, so I think I'll try the infamous witches brew, or maybe just plain old poly.

BTW, welcome back, we missed you at the creek.

[Michael Fross]

Bob, you are the authority when it comes to hand tools, so I'll listen to your advice. I don't have boat soup or wiping varnish, so I think I'll try the infamous witches brew, or maybe just plain old poly.


If I understand wiping varnish correctly from Flexners book, wiping varnish is just varnish diluted with mineral spirits. You probably have both of these...

Michael

[Bob Smalser]

Oiling your planes isn't a big deal, but it will definitely aid in preventing cracking.

I wouldn't use poly, as it will eventually chip, and gentle finish repair solvents like TCE won't touch it. I'd use Barkley's, Truoil, Linspeed, or any alkyd spar varnish thinned 50% with turps. That way the finish can be repaired and topcoated without stripping, preserving the patina.

I usually use boat soup followed by wax instead of varnish, unless there are glue-jointed repairs to protect. 50-50 linseed-turps with Japan Drier and Pine Tar added, applied hot. I make it a gallon at a time and add varnish dregs to it as I use up each can of varnish. Turns dark with age. It is also totally authentic, for those so inclined.

[Martin Shupe]

Oiling your planes isn't a big deal, but it will definitely aid in preventing cracking.

I wouldn't use poly, as it will eventually chip, and gentle finish repair solvents like TCE won't touch it. I'd use Barkley's, Truoil, Linspeed, or any alkyd spar varnish thinned 50% with turps. That way the finish can be repaired and topcoated without stripping, preserving the patina.

I usually use boat soup followed by wax instead of varnish, unless there are glue-jointed repairs to protect. 50-50 linseed-turps with Japan Drier and Pine Tar added, applied hot. I make it a gallon at a time and add varnish dregs to it as I use up each can of varnish. Turns dark with age. It is also totally authentic, for those so inclined.

Bob, good to see you posting again. I always learn something interesting from you. I would love to see more of your articles in FWW, and I really wish you would write a book (or several).

Zahid, really nice job on the hand plane. I'd like to try one of those someday (when will I have the time?).