RAS table top

[Louis Brandt]

Hello,
I need to replace the table top on my radial arm saw, and unless someone has a better idea, I’m planning to use MDF for the material. I’d like the top to be as thick as reasonable, but the thickest MDF that I can find is 3/4 inch. I’m concerned about stability and the possibility of warping, so I’m thinking that instead of using a single thickness, I could laminate two pieces (say 1/2 inch each) of MDF, giving me a thicker and possibly more stable top.
Does anyone believe that this might not be the best approach?
I realize that there’s not all that much interest in radial arm saws anymore, but if anyone has replaced the top on one, I would appreciate knowing what they used.
Louis

[Greg Koch]

If you have a Craftsman RAS, you might be able to get a new table as well as a new blade guard. They are part of a recall by Emerson, the manufacturer.

[Louis Brandt]

Greg,
Yes, it is an old Craftsman RAS (mid 1960's vintage), but I've already checked, and it's not included in the recall. I guess that I should have mentioned that in the original post.
Louis

[Wm Myers]

There is the Mr. Sawdust book you can refer to for this but basically: 2 sheets of MDF or ply with 3 grooves 3/8" deep (lengthwise) on both pieces. In the grooves you put 3/4" x 3/16" (or so) thick steel bar sandwiched together between the 2 MDF pieces. Everything gets glued in place. A slow setting glue helps give you the time required to assemble it. Something that sticks to both wood and metal. With the steel bars in there, it won't sag. If you sand it flat with your RAS all the better. Cover with hardboard using contact cement and edge the whole thing with wood.
Easy alternate method: I found a 2 inch thick, veneered wood/glue composite that was a corporate meeting table. It's very flat, very heavy, works great and right in the middle of my price range (free). I diced up chucks that matched the old tables widths,mounted it, covered it with hardboard and edged it with alder. The hardboard is just cemented down and can be replaced if it gets too cut up. Make sure to remove all metal from a reclaimed meeting table, don't want to cut that on your saw. Check out salvation army, goodwill, used office furniture places, or your favorite dumpster for suitable tops.

[Jeff Horton]

Ditto the Mr Sawdust table. Should make a very stable table.

Put a sacraficial top over it and never cut through the main top. I don't like glueing it down because of the work to clean it up when it needs a new top. I used hardboard and brads around the endges of mine. Just tried to put them in places where they wouldn't bet hit by the saw blade.

[Charlie Plesums]

Whatever you use, I suggest a sacrificial top (I use 1/4 inch plywood) that has strips around three edges to hold in in place. Be sure to clean the sawdust out from under it occasionally. My first piece lasted about 25 years, and the only cut in the original top was when I made the sacrificial piece 35 years ago.

[Mark Pruitt]

I face glued two sheets of 3/4" MDF for my router table top. The thing is rock solid and stable. No complaints. Would consider the same for a RAS if I had one and needed a new table. Also, ditto Charlie's suggestion. Use a sacrificial top and you will never ever have to replace the main top.
Mark

[Ron Jones near Indy]

How many of you remember when the Craftsman RAS tops were red oak? To say they were durable would be an understatement.

[Jim O'Dell]

See if you can find some one pulling out their old formica counter tops. Snag a good piece of it, cut to size, then glue another piece of MDF under it. Or snag a second piece, and glue the two MDF parts together. (might be particle board). I did that and it makes a nice slick surface to work on, and didn't cost much. My RAS died, but I took the table top off and kept it. Now I have my Dad's old RAS, I need to try to mount it. Jim.

[John Kempkes]

I did the Mr. Sawdust table with plywood. Very nice. With a RAS that has a cast iron arm, you can crosscut 12" plywood and leave only the outer veneer.

[Frank Fusco]

No doubt two layers of MDF would provide a lot of stability due to the great weight of the stuff. But, I doubt warpage would be a problem because mdf has no grain structure and, I'm sure, you don't plan on soaking the top with water regularly. ;)