Tuckered out!

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

So, I discovered I made a layout error on my saw horse last night -- I'd calculated the bevel for the front leg at 16 degrees instead of 26 degrees.

This may be one time when my sucky sawing is a blessing -- I didn't get further than I did. :)

Fortunately, the errors were all in the waste, so I can now go make a better cut and no one but y'all will ever know of my error.

Because tomorrow is my last possible shop time in the class I take (where I have access to power tools), I'm going to bandsaw the curves again and get all that ready for the harder work I'll do with hand tools (like planing parts of it level and spokeshaving the curves).

One thing I did that I hadn't done before (and it's a good idea) is make a document that's part of my full-size template that shows each and every bevel angle so I can quickly set my bevel gauge. I don't have to save it on a piece of scrap, I can just print it out if I need it. This is good, because I don't really have any scrap yet (I keep using all I have, weirdly enough).

Anyhow, made lots of drawings and plans for tomorrow. I'm pooped!

[Larry Gelder]

What school are you attending and what classes you taking?

[Alan DuBoff]

Fortunately, the errors were all in the waste, so I can now go make a better cut and no one but y'all will ever know of my error.Your secret's safe with us! :eek:

Hopefully today was a better day.

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

I have a class at the local adult school. Problem is, there's room for about 12 people to set up (16 if they're doing small projects), but there were 18 in the class. Argh!

Anyhow, I got the sides rough-shaped (except for one small curve) and the front leg completely done (including the curve).

The legs are made from teak, because I found some teak shorts at a good price. So I was planing the teak tonight, and yeah, it's hard, but it planes well (it even bandsaws well, came off nice and shimmery and pretty darn smooth, actually).

So, with the Record #4 smoother I have, I discovered that teak loved to push the blade back behind the chipbreaker (never had that happen before, happened three times tonight). Then I went over a small knot on side #4 and I felt the blade nick (freshly sharpened Hock A2 blade, no less). Looked at it, sure enough, nick. After that, the Record just would NOT behave. It was just balking. Time to get out the artillery.

So I got out the LN 5-1/2 and it behaved immediately.

Got all four sides planed, and worked hard enough that when my cell phone rang, I realized I was out of breath. Eek!

By the time it was time to go, I was so tired I was shaking, but that's good work. I wanted more exercise and I'm getting it. :)

So, that brings me to a question: how to approach a double bevel? If I had a compound miter saw, I might just cheat, but I don't. I'm thinking of cutting the first bevel, then marking the second one and cutting that one by hand (or mostly by hand).

[Mark Singer]

It sounds like a good class....sorry there are so many in it...
The double bevel could be sawn by hand...scribe both lines and scribe the cut through the thickness to insure you stay plumb or verticle.....with the backsaw...start at the outside corner and start the saw slowly on the waste side of the shallow bevel. The first stroke or 2 set the cut so be careful. Within a few strokes, lower the back of the blade to the svribe as you saw. Stop and check the plumb scribe to the blade...make sure your are verticle...Do the same when starting the second bevel

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

Yeah, I figured I should make each bevel cut separately. I'm currently bad enough with a hand saw, I'd probably leave enough of the line that I could plane to the line.