Hide help

[John Bush]

Hi All!
I am in the process of repairing an old side table that was originally joined with hide glue. I've prepared all the to be joined surfaces and practiced a dry fit and played with the glue a littlle, but the glue up seems complicated and I would like some info on the working characteristics of the glue. I have a hot water bath that maxs out at ~175 deg. and can maintain the 145 deg. as suggested on the container, but I'm not sure how viscous the glue should be.

The table has four shelves with four vertical dividers between the two bottom shelves and the joints at the four legs are at a 45 deg. angle, have dowels as tenons, and fit into slots mortised into the legs. The dry fit took quite a bit of time to assemble and no clamping is possible until all the components are together.........

So, here are the questions- how thick/thick should the glue be? How hot should the glue be? How thick do you spread it on? and do you coat both surfaces? How much working time before the joint is set?

When I "practiced" with the stuff it transformed from honey texture, to elastic then rubbery and didn't get hard within the hour I watched it. At what point does the glue loose it's adhesive properties such as not final clamping until all pieces are assembled and the glue consistency is at the rubber stage.

This is interesting stuff but not as simple as the Gorilla.

Thanks, JCB.

[Mike Henderson]

John, you'll get a much better response if you post this question in the Neanderthal Haven section. Maybe one of the moderators will read this and move it for you.

Mike

[John Bush]

Thank you Micheal. JCB.

[Loren Hedahl]

You can make hot hide glue about as slow as you want with ammonium nitrate. It is available at most farm stores as fertilizer, the hottest stuff.

You can mix up to about 30 percent before your glue strength is compromsed extensively.

Another way to slow it down is to mix in some of what is sold as "cold hide glue."

The phase change to rubbery is what makes it so valuable for doing repairs on piano actions and the like where you really don't have a suitable way to clamp. It allows you to hand hold for the short time until the glue gets sticky, then you can decide if the glue up is OK and leave it to set up, or you can take it apart again and re-do it.

I'm not sure why you aren't using a more modern adhesive for your project, such as the Gorilla glue you mentioned. Another advantage of hide glue is you can take the joint apart again quite easily by heating or soaking with a water solution. I can't imagine that you need that ability for your project.

Loren Hedahl

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

John, you'll get a much better response if you post this question in the Neanderthal Haven section. Maybe one of the moderators will read this and move it for you.Mike

No he will not!!
Just akaus wes do bees into eletikal things dun't mean wees bees totally iggornat

URL's that I think are really informative regarding Hide glue.
www.frets.com/FRETSPages/...ideglue.html (http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luth.../hideglue.html)
www.milligan1868.com/glue.html (http://www.milligan1868.com/glue.html)
mmd.foxtail.com/Archives/D....21.05.html (http://mmd.foxtail.com/Archives/Dige....04.21.05.html)
nawcc-mb.infopop.cc/groupee/...748100629 (http://nawcc-mb.infopop.cc/groupee/f...81/m/748100629)
www.vanedwards.co.uk/glue.htm (http://www.vanedwards.co.uk/glue.htm)
deller.com/newpage8.htm (http://deller.com/newpage8.htm)
www.woodworking.com/article_...ticle=610 (http://www.woodworking.com/article_a...=6&article=610)
www.bjorn.net/index.html (http://www.bjorn.net/index.html)

[Chris Barton]

A premixed hide glue made for use without heat is available and has a fairly long open time. But, if you have a complex glue up I would go with plastic resin glue (Weldwood).