Need some advice........ again

[Mike Burns]

I'm in the process of accumulating some good handtools. I've checked out a book by Anthony Guidice and he recommends frame saws. I bought a German 28" frame saw from Woodcraft with a 5 point blade. I also bought a 9 point blade for the same saw. I've been practicing with it and after getting use to it, I like the way it cuts. It's much faster than my panel saw, but then again, my panel saw is an older Craftsman that's probably of questionable quality. I think the frame saw will be great for ripping and cross-cuts, but it's too large for joinery. Should I purchase a smaller frame saw for cutting dovetails, tenons, and such? If so, what size/brand, and does anyone know of a good source? If not, could you recommend the right size/brand of backsaw?

One other question. I purchased a LN low angle jack plane as well. It works very well right out of the box. Not much documentation on making adjustments, etc came with the plane. I'm a little bit anal about using and setting up tools the right way. Is there a good site or a good reference book for using said plane?

Any other suggestions for a basic set of saws, planes, chisels, etc.. would be appreciated. I also have an old stanley bailey #5 that belonged to my grandfather. I'd like to get it tuned up and functioning right. The only other plane I have is a low angle Record block plane that works pretty well.

Sorry for the long post. Looking forward to your responses.

Mike

[Maurice Metzger]

Hi Mike, a long post is not a problem. One place to start for information is here:

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm

There are some good articles on basic tool sets, rehabbing planes, etc.

My current set of tools is in flux, and I'm trying different things out myself. So I'll leave it to others to make recommendations about what tools you should have. One question only you can answer is how will you use the tools? Do you plan on using power tools to dimension your stock, or will you use hand tools for that? That will affect your choice of tools.

(Edited to remove information that really wasn't what Mike was asking for)

HTH, Maurice

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

Are you planning to use a jack as a smoother (some people do, if they like the larger plane size). If not, I'd suggest getting a smoother.

My list of planes alone is rather long (as of now, I have 29); I'm pretty deficient in the saws/chisels/drills/workshop stuff. For example, two braces, but no other drills.

[Clinton Findlay]

Mike,
Your comparison of the panel saw to the new frame saw might be telling you that the panel saw needs to be filed sharp. The link provided by Maurice has a few good links on the subject (saw sharpening), and I learnt by using the one by Bob Smalser. Thanks Bob! :)

Frame (or bow) saws are good aren't they, and they really come into their own when cutting a curve.
A 14" or so backsaw might offer more control for dovetails and small tenons though and a good quality, secondhand one is a cheap starting point to work this out for yourself.

I don't know about the LN LA Jack.

Maurice's link also has an article to a "Beginners Hand Tool List" :D .

[Mike Burns]

Thanks, Maurice. That's a great link. I do have a very well equipped shop full of power tools, including a 6" jointer and a planer, so I can cheat on dimensioning my stock. However, I can only flatten a surface 6" wide with the jointer unless I rip the stock and re-glue it. So being able to flatten with a hand plane is a skill I want to develop.

Thanks for the reply.

Mike

[John Kain]

about handplanes.....

You will be served well with a jack plane (rough stocking) and a smoothing plane. The low angle block (a 60 1/2 ?) is the single plane I use the most. You are good to go for most projects with these. I love how they seriously decrease the amount of sanding required. If you don't own a power jointer (buy one) then a #7 might be required to put boards together appropriately. You "can" get by with a jack plane but it's more difficult.

The 60 1/2 block plane is still the one tool I can't work without.

Sounds like you are doing well.......

Handplanes do require a good deal of maintance at first. Alot of honing and sharpening at first, then blade maintance. They are soooo worth it for the effort used in sharpening..... I know you know this, but I thought it might be good to reiterate it for others reading this post!!!:D

[Terry Beadle]

I have had the LN low angle jack for some years now. It's the most versitile plane in my shop. You can use it for a jack and a smoother. Also IMO, it's the best plane to start flatening a wide board with. If you get the board as flat as you can see with your winding sticks and straight edge, then when you go to a 07 or 08, then it will be short work from their to dead flat. There are no special tricks with the low angle. I have had to tap the blade very lightly to get even blade distribution but I could have just as well loosened the cap a smidgen and used my fingers. I do recommend David Charlesworth's sharpening methods and planing techniques. I made a big difference in the quality and quantity I can produce in these short weekends.

In short, practise with it and you'll see that the LN low angle jack is a honey to hold and that A2 cryo will hold an edge really well.

my 02:o