Next plane?

[Mark Rios]

I'm ready to buy my next plane. Do you wanna tell me what to buy?

I've tuned my Stanley 60 1/2 (my LN as well but there wasn't much to do) and it has never worked like that, let me tell you. What a difference. With the Stanley tuned to the best that I can do, the LN still feels better than the Stanley.

The Stanley No. 4 that I bought on ebay looks like it's not going to come. I paid IMMEDIATELY after the auction ended and have emailed the seller 5 times but no response. It's been 5 days so far.

I was looking a parts breakdowns of the bench and jointer planes and there are a few more parts in them than in the block planes. I'm going to need another learning curve to become familiar with them.

I might as well get another LN. What should it be?????

[Ian Smith]

I'd go for a jack, either 5 or 5-1/2, or a smoother, either 4 or 4-1/2. If the Stanley No. 4 you bought on eBay turns up and is in usable condition then I'd go the jack.

A jack would be fine for shooting end grain on a shooting board, you can also do some edge jointing with it and you could even do some smoothing with it if you felt so inclined and tuned it appropriately. A jack is a very versatile plane.

[Mike Henderson]

I don't use my #5 at all any more. I have several #4's and a 5 1/2. When I just want to trim some wood off, I'll often grab my #3 or a block plane. Otherwise, I'll use a #4 (by having several, I can have slightly different edges). If I want a heavy plane, or for a shooting board, I use my 5 1/2.

If you decide you want a #5, I'll sell you a corrugated sweethart Stanley, all tuned up, and with an extra trick tote (see my web site for a picture of the plane). PM me if interested.

But my recommendation would be to buy a #4 or 4 1/2. Everybody is different in their use of planes. You'll have to find out what you like.

Mike

[Maurice Metzger]

The Stanley No. 4 that I bought on ebay looks like it's not going to come. I paid IMMEDIATELY after the auction ended and have emailed the seller 5 times but no response. It's been 5 days so far.



Mark, far be it from me to stop someone from buying a new tool, but based on my experience don't give up hope on the eBay plane - 5 days isn't long at all for some sellers. Some people will get your item in the mail and give you a tracking number almost as soon as the auction ends, with others it's a complete mystery until the postman shows up with a package.

Maurice

[Mark Rios]

Mark, far be it from me to stop someone from buying a new tool, but based on my experience don't give up hope on the eBay plane - 5 days isn't long at all for some sellers. Some people will get your item in the mail and give you a tracking number almost as soon as the auction ends, with others it's a complete mystery until the postman shows up with a package.

Maurice
You're right, of course Maurice. However, I was planning on buying a newone anyway. I just don't know which one yet. Even If I got a duplicate of the Stanley, I'd use the Stanley as a "rough" working plane, one that I can practice on, and use it for taking off glue in glue-ups and so forth.

A LN is on the horizon. It just might have a little Stanley brother. :D

Which one, which one?

[Derek Cohen]

Mark

If all you have at present is the little block plane, my recommendation would be a bevel up jack, either the LN LA Jack (#62) or the LV LA Jack (#62 1/2). The advantages are:

* you are already familiar with the way these work (actually this is just a bonus, the others come first).

* these are incredibly versatile planes and can be used for smoothing, short jointing (depending on what you work with they could be all you ever need), and great on a shooting board.

* The range of these planes is, like your LN block plane, increased by an adjustable mouth and the fact that you can alter the cutting angle by having a couple of blades honed to different angles (one for end grain and another for face grain). Then just swap them over as needed.

* While you are biased towards LN as a brand at present, this is a case where the LV is better featured. The planes are not quite the same, not just in features, but also in size (the LV is larger and heavier) and ergonomics (the LN has the better tote), so go out and try both to see which you prefer.

No doubt others will comment here on their experience since this is by now a standard suggestion. Let me emphasize that both are superior planes and you would be happy with either.

Incidentally, don't be in such a hurry with eBay - I often wait a month or more for items to arrive.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Dan Forman]

Mark---For new planes I would second Derek's comments and go with the LV bevel up family. They all use the same blades, so you can save money there too. The jack is the most versatile, add the smoother and the jointer as finances allow.

Dan

[Doug Shepard]

Mark

If all you have at present is the little block plane, my recommendation would be a bevel up jack, either the LN LA Jack (#62) or the LV LA Jack (#62 1/2).
...



I'll second that. The LN #62 is probably one of the most reached-for planes I have. I haven't done a hands-on comparison to the LV version, but assuming that it's mouth adjustment mechanism works similar to the one on my LV BU-Jointer I'd have to give a slight edge to the LN if the other differences dont elevate one over the other. IMHO the adjuster on the LV's aren't as positive as the LN (or even Stanley 60-1/2 ?:eek: ). Apparently the design allows for returning to the same setting after blade changes, but it just doesn't feel right to me and seems to come loose or clog up with shavings too easily . Just my $0.02 - but I don't think you could go wrong with either of them.

[Mark Singer]

I agree with Derek as well....the LV bevel up jack is very versitile and has great adjustments. You will probably want to get all 3 once you have one...I was just using mine yesterday on end grain teak wood with excellent results...

[Clinton Findlay]

On the size issue I'd suggest a 4 or a 7.
The 4 will be your finishing smoother. The 7 your jointer to square/flatten stock.
Both sizes will be 'everyday' users.
You will get both sooner or later, so I guess it doesn't matter which one you get first.

I like my LV LA smoother, and have old secondhand jointers, they all work.;)

[Mark Rios]

Thanks to all for the great help.

So...if I get a Jack plane, should it be a 5, 5 1/4 or a 5 1/2?

When I get a smoother, Anyone like the 4 1/2 over the 4?

[Derek Cohen]

Mark

With all due respect, I suggest you go and do a bit of reading about the planes recommended above, and then make up your own mind. At this point I do not believe that you know what is on offer, nor what you need. We cannot choose for you.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

Lots of people prefer 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 over the 4 and 5.

There's a few reasons:

1) blade is the same width as the #6 and #7, thus one can have the same set of blades for all those planes if one chooses. Catch is, typically one has different cambers, so I'm not sure this is a big thing.

2) 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 are significantly heavier planes. This can be a good thing on difficult woods, but I get tired enough pushing a #4 around. :) A 4-1/2 weighs the same as a 5 (4-3/4 pounds). A 5-1/2 weighs 6-3/4 pounds. By comparison, a 4 weighs 3-3/4 pounds.

3) The 4-1/2 and 5-1/2 are 1" longer than their non-half counterparts. Sometimes, that's useful.

The 5-1/4 is considered the "Junior Jack" plane and was originally designed for boys to teach them woodworking, so it's a full pound lighter than a #5 (same weight as a #4). It uses a 1-3/4" wide blade like the #3 does, so it was often paired with a #3 smoother.

I've got a 4, 4-1/2 (on order), a 5 (just sold) and a 5-1/2. I'm probably going to keep one of my 4s when my 4-1/2 arrives, and get a 5-1/4 to have an intermediate size between the 4 and the 5-1/2.