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Chris Merriam
07-14-2006, 12:00 AM
I feel silly for asking this, but what is the best way to support 6in PVC running down a wall? The pipe and 6x6x6 wyes get awful heavy, surely I can't support that from the ceiling right?

Then I thought any sort of 'clamping' support would only hold the pipe to the wall, not bear any weight.

Any pointers are appreciated!!

Cody Colston
07-14-2006, 9:08 AM
I used plumber's perforated strapping to secure mine to the ceiling and to the wall. My ceiling is OSB but you could screw the strapping to the ceiling joists if yours is sheet rock.

On the vertical drops, placing the strapping just below the shoulder on a wye, elbow or even a collar will help lend support.

J. Scott Chambers
07-14-2006, 9:28 AM
I assume you mean running vertically down the wall to a machine. If so, you could clamp it to the wall to keep it from moving side to side, and put a support from the floor to wherever the pipe turns away from the wall. This would support the weight of the vertical member.

Russ Massery
07-14-2006, 9:42 AM
I used metal pipe but. I cut out a "c" shaped portion out of a 2x6. Screw it to the wall. then used the pvc straping to hold it into place. I found the pvc strapping holds much tighter then the galvanize does. If you need I can post a pic of the clamp block.

Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan
07-14-2006, 10:12 AM
I used the plumbers strapping too, worked well, gives you lots of options for where you want to put the scews. To get the pipe into position, working by myself, I used some "T" sticks, these are sticks (2x2s) that are about 8" shorter than the height I want the pipe to be at, on top of the stick I put a short piece of 2x4, and I carved or cut a concave surface into it. I then got the pipe near where I wanted it, and then used the two sticks to hold it in place, and move it up a bit more.

Worked well.

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/dc/first_section.jpg

I also found that a mix of dishwashing soap, and water did wonders for putting the pipe together, once dry, it don't move, but wet, it works VERY well. If you need to take it apart, just add water.

Also, if you want or need to twist a pipe or a fitting for a better angle etc, I used this......

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/images/dc/pipe_twister1.jpg
(Sorry, crappy cell phone pic)

Worked well, lots of screws into the wood, with washers, and then when you turn the wood, the flat on the end of the board tips one way, this really tightens the plumbers strap, now you can twist the pipe or fitting.

Good luck, PVC pipe is HEAVY! :D

Cheers!

Bill Pentz
07-14-2006, 10:43 AM
I feel silly for asking this, but what is the best way to support 6in PVC running down a wall? The pipe and 6x6x6 wyes get awful heavy, surely I can't support that from the ceiling right?

Then I thought any sort of 'clamping' support would only hold the pipe to the wall, not bear any weight.

Any pointers are appreciated!!

Chris,

Take a look at my Duct Hanging (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Ducting.cfm#DuctHanging) information on my ducting page. The screw in mounts for the heavy nylon cables work well for both ceiling and wall mounting. I do recommend getting a metal cable tie gun to cinch the cables tight so the pipe does not slip.

bill
http://billpentz.com/woodworking/ducting/McBrayerTiesSm.jpghttp://billpentz.com/woodworking/ducting/CableTieMounts.jpg

Ken Vick
07-14-2006, 10:47 AM
I used same as Cody except I used plastic ties suspended from hooks in ceiling for pipe at ceiling. I used light weight S&D pipe so these ties support that easily and using them, the pipe is very easily installed. Ken

Jim O'Dell
07-14-2006, 11:30 AM
Timely thread. I'm contemplating how to do that on mine. For information, on my horizontals, I used some screw in eye bolts and the heavy rubber bungee cords. I can adjust the eye bolts to adjust pressure, and the bungee cords absorb some of the vibrations. The bungee cord is not my idea, IIRC I read about it here while floating down the Creek.:cool: I decided to do the 4" long threaded eye bolts for ease of adjustment.
As a side question to Chris', how would one support a down tube away from a wall? The one for my TS and the BS/future jointer/router table are both away from a wall, and I need to be able to remove the one for the TS to get my van in in case of bad weather. Thanks! Jim.

Chris Merriam
07-14-2006, 11:35 AM
Many thanks for all the replies and pointers! I will get busy this weekend and hopefully wrap up most of my DC installation. I got the DC in October and am surprised/embarrased I haven't finished the installation yet!

Chris Padilla
07-14-2006, 11:35 AM
Jim,

I may need to do a "swivel" of a sorts on my DC piping as well. It may well end up being a long tube of flexible pipe. I saw some of the heavier duty S&D at my local irrigatoin warehouse that has hubs with rubber rings built in. I wonder if those could work like a swivel joint or a joint that can be easily taken apart yet seal decently.

Chris Padilla
07-14-2006, 11:36 AM
Many thanks for all the replies and pointers! I will get busy this weekend and hopefully wrap up most of my DC installation. I got the DC in October and am surprised/embarrased I haven't finished the installation yet!

That ain't nothin', Chris! I finished my DC, hung it, powered it, but that was months and months and months ago. I'm finally getting around to figuring out how to run the PVC ductwork.... :o

See this long thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=9933

Julio Navarro
07-14-2006, 11:49 AM
This might seem odd or even silly buit I used eye bolts screwed into the bottom of the eye trusses and bungee chords wrapped around the duct then hooked back on the eye bolt.

This was cheap, easy to alter and supported the heavy PVC ducts with no problem.

Chris Padilla
07-14-2006, 12:10 PM
Another thing to consider with hanging your DC and even your piping: noise transmission. I went through pains and picked up some vibration hangers from Grainger:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?originalValue=vibration+hanger&L2=Vibration&operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&L1=Isolators%2C

...to hang my DC from so that it is isolated from the house. I need to think about how to do the same for the PVC ductwork. The bungee cord idea might work in some spots or the Gripple System shown in Bill Pentz' link above:

http://www.gripple.com/construction/apps_hvac.cfm

Fun, fun, fun! :)

Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan
07-14-2006, 12:25 PM
Many thanks for all the replies and pointers! I will get busy this weekend and hopefully wrap up most of my DC installation. I got the DC in October and am surprised/embarrased I haven't finished the installation yet!

Remember Chris, we like pictures! :D

Good luck!

Julio Navarro
07-14-2006, 12:29 PM
Another thing to consider with hanging your DC and even your piping: noise transmission.

The bungee chord, as silly as it sounds is perfect for the sound transmission, it transmit no vibration at all.

The only limitation is that it wont work on vertical installation, only ceiling hanged duct.

I am using it on the metal duct as well.

It doesnt matter how heavy the duct is, you can find almost any size bungee chord. And you can also put as many as you need where ever you need (with the use of drywall sleeves if you dont have a wood truss where you need it)

Chris Padilla
07-14-2006, 1:05 PM
Julio, not silly at all...it is rubber and won't transfer much vibration to the metal hook on the cord. I think it is a brilliant and very economical way to hang the piping. My only worry is if/when it gets dry/brittle over time.

Julio Navarro
07-14-2006, 1:07 PM
Good point and also an advantage cos they is cheap!

Julio Navarro
07-14-2006, 1:08 PM
Like Stu says, lots of pics, and close detail ones!

Mike Weaver
07-14-2006, 1:46 PM
Another thing to consider with hanging your DC and even your piping: noise transmission. I went through pains and picked up some vibration hangers from Grainger:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml?originalValue=vibration+hanger&L2=Vibration&operator=prodIndexRefinementSearch&L1=Isolators%2C

...to hang my DC from so that it is isolated from the house. I need to think about how to do the same for the PVC ductwork.
Chris makes a good point - my Bill Pentz cyclone is attached to a freestanding base of scrap 4x4 posts with 2x4 bracing and an MDF plate.

It doesn't touch the house, except for resting on the concrete floor. :D


-Mike

Chris Padilla
07-14-2006, 1:50 PM
Mike,

I would have done that except you can see that I've stuffed my cyclone way up high into the "loft" of my garage so I had to come up with an alternative that would still isolate it from the house as much as possible.

Jim O'Dell
07-14-2006, 2:11 PM
I'll try to take some pictures of mine this weekend. Hopefully it will show what I've done. And if you built a hanger off the wall, and a screw down type hose clamp on the pipe, I would think you could use a bungee cord to hold it up. May need 2 short ones on different sides. Or loop a longer bungee around the pipe, use the hose clamp to hold it to the pipe, and that way you would already have 2 attaching points. And like Julio said, if they get brittle and break, they are cheap to replace. I used the black rubber ones. I'd be a little leary of using the multi color covered ones. Jim.

Jim O'Dell
07-14-2006, 8:21 PM
Ok, here are a couple pictures of my hangers. It is the same hanger, one shot closer that the other. (:rolleyes: like you couldn't tell that!)
What do you think about this for my free standing drops. Secure a 3/4 inch piece of plywood, maybe 10" in diameter with a 6" hole for the pipe to go through, as close to the floor as the pipe will allow as it curves to the TS. (Probably right against the El.) In this drill 4 holes and install 4 T-nuts from the bottom side. Use the proper length of threaded rod with rubber caps on the floor end, screwed into the T-nuts and adjust to hold the pipe's weight. Sound like it would work?
I spent about 50 minutes in the shop after I got home rewiring in the GFCI, and wiring the swithed receptacle for the contactor trigger to plug into, and it's switch. It was 105.8 when I walked in. In the time it took to open 2 windows and swing the main 10'wide doors open and walk back to the thermometer, it had dropped to 100, and ended up in the low 90's after about 25 minutes. With a fan blowing on me, it really wasn't too bad. I think if I can get some roof ventilation installed, it will hover in the low 90's on a day like today...I think we were at 102. Have a great weekend! Jim.

Larry Conely
07-15-2006, 12:16 PM
I made some hangers out of scrap. I cut half-circles exactly the size of the outside diameter of the pipe. I then placed the hangers so they were under the larger lip of an elbow or other union. This carries the verticle weight, the strap only holds the pipe to the hanger.