Scary sharp abrasives starter kit?

[David Croteau]

I'm taking the plunge and trying scary sharp for regular chisel and plane work. I'll be buying the Veritas honing guide that seems to get rave reviews and getting some glass locally.

But what about paper? There seems to be a confusing variety of options out there. PSA vs. non-PSA. Sheets vs. rolls. The 3M industrial stuff vs. others. Lots of different grades.

From your experience, what would be a good starter kit of abrasives? PSA vs. non--why? What supplier seems to offer the best deals?

Thanks.

[Per Swenson]

Scary Sharp,

For years I embraced this method, still do when out

in the field so to speak and need to get real sharp.

Since then we weighed the time, pros and cons and purchased the MK11 from lee valley.

Back to your original question.

From the same source... http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33004&cat=1,43072

I took these papers, shot em with 3M #77 and stuck it to 3/8 plate glass.

Hope this helps.

Per

[Steve Roxberg]

David, I sent you a PM with some information on it for your review.

[glenn bradley]

Tools for Woodworking 'http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc' has a part# ST-MAF.FWWKit that includes the microabrasives that were used in the Fine Wood Working article regarding this system. I have that and use it as described in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=37548

Very pleased with the result and the cost is minimal compared to the results.

[Jeremy Gibson]

I'm taking the plunge and trying scary sharp for regular chisel and plane work. I'll be buying the Veritas honing guide that seems to get rave reviews and getting some glass locally.

But what about paper? There seems to be a confusing variety of options out there. PSA vs. non-PSA. Sheets vs. rolls. The 3M industrial stuff vs. others. Lots of different grades.

From your experience, what would be a good starter kit of abrasives? PSA vs. non--why? What supplier seems to offer the best deals?

Thanks.
Take a look a McFeely's - http://www.mcfeelys.com/product.asp?pid=KSS-0301. I know they specialize in square headed screws, but they have a starter kit that includes a phenolic backer plate and a set of eight grits of PSA paper in rolls. You can get started for about $90. If you want you can buy additional phenolic plates for $15 each, or $13 each if you buy 3 or more. The only down-side is their grits max out at 1200. It seems to me to be the simplest method I and have always had excellent service from McFeely's. Of course it's hard to go wrong with anything from LV!

[Frank Fusco]

I really appreciate it when folks tell us what they are talking about.
Is "scary sharp" just a phrase or is it product?
What is PSA used in this context?

[Don Baer]

I really appreciate it when folks tell us what they are talking about.
Is "scary sharp" just a phrase or is it product?
What is PSA used in this context?

Frank,
Scary sharp is a method of sharpening. You glue or tape various grit sand paper to a flat surface like glass and use it to sharpen your chisels, plane iron etc. I buy my sand paper from place that support automotive pain shop so I can get my sand paper grits to 10000 grit. It works well.

[Mark Rios]

I really appreciate it when folks tell us what they are talking about.
Is "scary sharp" just a phrase or is it product?
What is PSA used in this context?

Frank, "Scary Sharp" is a technique/method of sharpening that involves using inexpensive tools/materials to obtain such a sharp edge that it's "Scary". :D It's a (very) real, albeit somewhat whimsical term.

I'm sure that someone here can post the FWW article for those that may not have been exposed to it in the past.

I can't figure out "PSA" either. Thanks for asking it Frank.


edit: I just looked at the LV website listed above and I think that "PSA" is some sort of adhesive backed version of a sheet abrasive. Can anyone refute or confirm this, please? Thanks.

[Dan McGuire]

If I am not mistaken, PSA stands for Pressure Sensitive Adhesive.

If I am wrong, it won't be the last

Dan

[David Croteau]

Sorry, Frank. I'm a newbie so usually I'm the one scratching my head and doing quick searches to figure out terms like "BLO" that everyone else already knows!

Yeah, PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) paper is "peel and stick." Convenient, I suppose, but significantly more expensive compared to the method Per mentions (spraying with an adhesive).

[Frank Fusco]

Thanks all. That helps.
BTW (by the way) :D . BLO is an obscenity that can't be used here. ;)

[glenn bradley]

PSA - pressure Sensitive Adhesive, BLO - boiled linseed oil, YGIAGAM - Your guess is as good as mine.

[Larry Fox]

This is where I first learned of it.

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM

I used it for a while to very good result but found it to be a bit of a PITA (maybe I was doing something wrong). I have since replaced it with a Tormek as my shop time is very precious and I want to be able to restore an edge very quickly.

I believe that Kinngspor has a kit with the papers in various grits specifically intended for the SS system.

The Veritas jig mentioned above makes things much easier. It also allows you to set an angle very quickly.

[frank shic]

mike dunbar made a GREAT video on sandpaper sharpening which explains exactly what grits you need and how to handle curved blades like turning gouges. rockler has a set which includes the plate glass, the honing jig and several grits, but you might want to buy the klingspor psa sandpaper once you've figured out what grits you need. scary sharp works well for me right now because i don't really sharpen that frequently, but i have noticed that pulling the psa sandpaper off the glass is a major pain and i hope to switch to waterstones in the future when time permits me to use hand tools more often.

[Doug Shepard]

....

From the same source... http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33004&cat=1,43072

I took these papers, shot em with 3M #77 and stuck it to 3/8 plate glass.

Hope this helps.

Per

This one had me really puzzled as I use the same 3 fine grit papers from LV but I couldn't figure out why you'd have to apply your own adhesive to stick them down. I went back to the LV page and looked closer. Look's like they've discontinued the 0.5u with PSA. Bummer - but glad I've still got some left and at least the other 2 grits are still available in PSA.

David - those 3 LV grits I stick down on the glass. All the other lower grits I just lay on the glass dry. As long as there aren't issues with the paper wanting to curl I haven't found it to be a problem. The chisel or plane iron holds it down well enough on it's own. I've used anything from 80g to 800g before switching to the LV stuff - depends on the nastiness of the chisel/iron as to how low I start. 180g drywall sanding screen works like a champ too for taking metal off quicker.

[Brian Hale]

David

For just starting out i suggest you get the LV jig and then go to the BORG and pick up some 600 grit, 400 grit and 220 grit "wet-or-dry" paper. Then stop by the window and door area and get a piece Lexan/plexiglass about 10" x 12". If you put a small amount of water on the Lexan and put the wet-or-dry paper on it, capillary action will keep the paper from sliding around. If you decide you like this method then you can look for plate glass if you wish and the more expensive abrasive sheets.

My setup includes an old marble top from an antique table and lots of the wet-or-dry paper. I've also got the abrasive sheets from LV and Tools-for-working-wood but i can't say if they're worth the extra money or not. They do last longer but at a price.

I also perfer the non-PSA sheets. You'll find that it's a simple matter to touch up an edge with the 220, hone it on the 400 and finalize it on the 600 all on the same piece of "glass"; just pick up one sheet and lay the next down. IMHO, it not worth paying extra for the PSA when water works just fine.

Brian :)