David Rose
07-13-2006, 5:55 AM
Thanks again to whoever pointed out that Laguna was closing out the Lenox carbide blades for 50 cents an inch. Mine cost more because they were out of that length and cut down a longer one for me. But it was still cheaper than factory.
The blade came in as the exact configuration ordered, 105 x 1/2 x 3. And the weld was better than the old Lenox that I had before. You literally could not feel the spot, though it did make a very slight click against the Coolblocks.
I had forgotten what a chore I had made changing blades on this little Delta 14. About all my "custom" (shop made) extras had to come off. First the table mounted switch, then the table, then the air pickup, then I could get to the factory stuff. I guess it doesn't matter too much since the blade has been on for 3 years. ;)
Once I gave the weld a final polish and cleaned off the antirust goo, I got the new blade on (length was perfect). It tracked dead center on the wheels with no adjustment as the old one did. It definitely was the proper time to vacuum things out since I still have a wimpy DC. After I got everything back together, I checked all for square. I'm still running the original spring, so I decided to go up a notch on where I had been tensioning. The old blade ran well with tension at 3/8. I'll probably catch flak for saying that, but it would resaw to capacity with very minimal error, so I used it. The new blade did seem a bit stiffer set at 1/2". I knew that would likely change the blade location at the insert. It didn't. Hmmm... I cut a new insert anyway so I could say it is "0" clearance... until I back out a piece with the saw running. :eek:
Since the table clamp has to be loosened to remove the DC connector, the table moved a tad, so the blade was not exactly square to the table at the side. Holding the table up while retightening corrected that. Fine tune will come before I resaw something wide. I reset the cool blocks twice, but couldn't tell they ever moved. I felt sure that a new blade and tighter setting would change things.
I used an old diamond hone to radius the back of the blade and did the ole Pam trick for lube.
Boy! Does this baby run smooth! I guess the slight kink that I tried to straighten, but now can't find, did have some effect. The little saw has a 30 year old Dayton 1HP motor and a "faster" pulley and a link belt, so some of that may contribute. The wheels have nearly no runout too. But vibration with the original "v" belt and motor and pulleys was atrocious.
Firing up and shutting down I didnt run the nickel test. It would never have passed that in the past. But while running after all the setup I did the test tonight. The table is fairly large at 26" square. Before the kink, I think it would pass everwhere except at one far corner. Vibration increases as the distance does. I couldn't get my nickel to stand up tonight! Bummer! The edges of the nickel looked worn, so I dug for another one. Jeeze! It had to pass that. It runs so smoothly now. I didn't have another nickel. :mad: But I did find a new shiny penny. Remember the copper (well copper colored) coins? The edge was nice and sharp! Just what a needed. Guess what? I got it to stand up all over the table, even in the far corner at all angles! ;) It was impressive at least to me.
Lenox came through again and this time I can add Laguna to the "good" list. Oh, and the total cost with shipping ended up at $100. As I stated in an earlier post I went through 7 blades from three companies in the first 6 months that I used the saw as a primary saw. The old Lenox lasted the next 4 1/2 years, with limited use for about a year of that. The Lenox was still cutting true (no lead, probably due to the carbide thickness), and clean and is sharp. The kink would show up sometimes though if I lingered in a spot.
I ripped a 12" piece of walnut and got a perfect glue line top and bottom! I don't expect that everytime, but who knows?
David
The blade came in as the exact configuration ordered, 105 x 1/2 x 3. And the weld was better than the old Lenox that I had before. You literally could not feel the spot, though it did make a very slight click against the Coolblocks.
I had forgotten what a chore I had made changing blades on this little Delta 14. About all my "custom" (shop made) extras had to come off. First the table mounted switch, then the table, then the air pickup, then I could get to the factory stuff. I guess it doesn't matter too much since the blade has been on for 3 years. ;)
Once I gave the weld a final polish and cleaned off the antirust goo, I got the new blade on (length was perfect). It tracked dead center on the wheels with no adjustment as the old one did. It definitely was the proper time to vacuum things out since I still have a wimpy DC. After I got everything back together, I checked all for square. I'm still running the original spring, so I decided to go up a notch on where I had been tensioning. The old blade ran well with tension at 3/8. I'll probably catch flak for saying that, but it would resaw to capacity with very minimal error, so I used it. The new blade did seem a bit stiffer set at 1/2". I knew that would likely change the blade location at the insert. It didn't. Hmmm... I cut a new insert anyway so I could say it is "0" clearance... until I back out a piece with the saw running. :eek:
Since the table clamp has to be loosened to remove the DC connector, the table moved a tad, so the blade was not exactly square to the table at the side. Holding the table up while retightening corrected that. Fine tune will come before I resaw something wide. I reset the cool blocks twice, but couldn't tell they ever moved. I felt sure that a new blade and tighter setting would change things.
I used an old diamond hone to radius the back of the blade and did the ole Pam trick for lube.
Boy! Does this baby run smooth! I guess the slight kink that I tried to straighten, but now can't find, did have some effect. The little saw has a 30 year old Dayton 1HP motor and a "faster" pulley and a link belt, so some of that may contribute. The wheels have nearly no runout too. But vibration with the original "v" belt and motor and pulleys was atrocious.
Firing up and shutting down I didnt run the nickel test. It would never have passed that in the past. But while running after all the setup I did the test tonight. The table is fairly large at 26" square. Before the kink, I think it would pass everwhere except at one far corner. Vibration increases as the distance does. I couldn't get my nickel to stand up tonight! Bummer! The edges of the nickel looked worn, so I dug for another one. Jeeze! It had to pass that. It runs so smoothly now. I didn't have another nickel. :mad: But I did find a new shiny penny. Remember the copper (well copper colored) coins? The edge was nice and sharp! Just what a needed. Guess what? I got it to stand up all over the table, even in the far corner at all angles! ;) It was impressive at least to me.
Lenox came through again and this time I can add Laguna to the "good" list. Oh, and the total cost with shipping ended up at $100. As I stated in an earlier post I went through 7 blades from three companies in the first 6 months that I used the saw as a primary saw. The old Lenox lasted the next 4 1/2 years, with limited use for about a year of that. The Lenox was still cutting true (no lead, probably due to the carbide thickness), and clean and is sharp. The kink would show up sometimes though if I lingered in a spot.
I ripped a 12" piece of walnut and got a perfect glue line top and bottom! I don't expect that everytime, but who knows?
David