Opening myself up for stupid post of the year award

[Chuck Trisdale]

I got a Grizzly go555 in the garage that I am putting together. I got the riser kit and the cheap blade that comes with it. I CANT get the Dang blade on no matter what I do. I followed the directions (what there was in the manual) and still no luck. I am not sure what else to do except wait for my Wood Slicers to come in unless you guys can help.

Thanks

[Don Baer]

are the riser blocks installed? If so you'll never get the stock blade on. The standard blade is made to use without the riser locks.

;)

[Tom Hamilton]

Hey Chuck, sorry to hear about the blade problem. Perhaps you can give us a little more info. Can't get it through the table slot, can't get it on the wheels, can't get it in the guides?

I've had the thin blade fall off of my 513X when I de-tensioned, but it goes right back on.

Let us know the specifics.

Best regards, Tom

[Chuck Trisdale]

It is the blade that came with the riser kit - supposed to 105"

[Lee DeRaud]

What's the problem exactly? Blade too short?

Assuming it's not the blade for the un-risered saw, is the tension cranked way up?

[Chuck Trisdale]

I have done everything else, and I cannot get the dang thing on the wheels. I usually am not quite this newbie, is it possible they sent the wrong length?

[Mark Rios]

I had that BS a couple of years ago. Have you checked to see if the upper wheel isn't hung up and not coming all the way down (You are turning the tension crank all the way down right)? A couple of times I had trouble getting a blade on and this turned out to be the trouble. It would kinda get hung up in a funny position and not drop down far enough to get a blade on.

Other than that, I don't know. Sorry.

hth

[Chuck Trisdale]

In case I was being stupid. Which apparently I am

[Brad Schmid]

Chuck,

If the blade is in fact the right size for use with a riser block, I can think of one other thing...

After loosening the adjustment mechanism on the top wheel, did the adjuster mechanism "doo-dad" (that be a highly technical term:D ) slide down all the way in it's slots? you might have to tap down a bit on the thing with a rubber mallet to make it go down.

IIRC, the blade size for a 14" saw with 6" riser is 105". Maybe someone can confirm that.

edit: wow, 8 posts in the time it took me to one finger type this :D
cheers
Brad

[Mark Rios]

Chuck,

If the blade is in fact the right size for use with a riser block, I can think of one other thing...

After loosening the adjustment mechanism on the top wheel, did the adjuster mechanism "doo-dad" (that be a highly technical term:D ) slide down all the way in it's slots? you might have to tap down a bit on the thing with a rubber mallet to make it go down.

IIRC, the blade size for a 14" saw with 6" riser is 105". Maybe someone can confirm that.

cheers
Brad


IIRC the G0555 uses a slightly different size than standard, something like 103 1/2" or something like that.


Chuck, you may just have the wrong size blade. You may just have to wait for your Timberwolf blades to arrive. You HAVE ordered them right????????

[Chuck Trisdale]

I will be right back

[Chuck Trisdale]

I am going to go check out the thingy you were talking about.

[Chuck Trisdale]

it seems to stop too early on the automatic tension release handle thingy - to also use a technical term. Is the point of that pointy bolt supposed to rest in that recess that looks built for it? If it is - it is never hitting it.

Also, is the bolt supposed to move? When I turn it the spring tightens/loosens, but the bolt never moves. That may be the way it is supposed to happen - I am just trying to give as much info as possible

[Chuck Trisdale]

I changed the tension mechanism by doing this which got the blade on. Of course now that I have done this I cant touch it for 2 days bc I have to take my grandmother back to Jackson tomorrow night




Remove the setscrew in the spacer indicated
in





Figure 37 and rotate the spacer up 5-6
turns.







Spacer





5.



Turn the tension knob until proper blade tension
has been reached according to the
blade thickness scale on the sliding bracket
and fine tune as needed.







6.



Thread the spacer down until it slightly
makes contact with the top of the sliding
bracket. Move the spacer back up the shaft
about 1-2 turns to leave a small space.
Replace the setscrew in the spacer and tighten
(Figure 37).

Thanks for your replies. I will attempt to be less ignorant in the future.:confused:

[Lee DeRaud]

I will attempt to be less ignorant in the future.:confused: 'Kay. We'll hold you to that. :cool:

[Chuck Trisdale]

Thanks again:o

[Vaughn McMillan]

...Thanks for your replies. I will attempt to be less ignorant in the future.:confused: ...


No worries...I'm sure you're not the first or last person who's run into the same problem.

Just to spare you one of my own ignorant learning experiences, make sure the teeth on the BS blade are pointing down. They don't cut worth a darn when they are pointing up. (Voice of experience talking here.) :D

Enjoy your new saw!

- Vaughn

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

No worries...I'm sure you're not the first or last person who's run into the same problem.

Just to spare you one of my own ignorant learning experiences, make sure the teeth on the BS blade are pointing down. They don't cut worth a darn when they are pointing up. (Voice of experience talking here.) :D

Enjoy your new saw!

- Vaughn

They should be facing towards you, as well as pointing down...... :o

[Larry Browning]

Chuck,
Is it just me? But after I enter a thread and start reading the various posts, I usually don't read the title block of each post. And I've got to say that your posts really don't make much since without reading the title block too. Others seem to do this as well and it always seems to throw me off just a bit. But, then again, maybe its just me. Is there a reason you do this that I am missing?

[Allen Bookout]

There are no stupid questions-----on this forum anyway. That is one of the things that makes it so great here.

[Dan Stuewe]

I think it is germane to this discussion to ask this question...on this band saw, are you expected to be able to remove (and put on) the blade by simply using the de-tension lever? I ask because I recall reading (in a magazine review I think) that some of the band saws with de-tension levers do not de-tension enough to remove the blade.

Thanks,

[Mark Rios]

No, I found that it doesn't release it enough. Trying to stretch a bandsaw blade onto the wheels, whether a little stretching or alot of stretching, is a little dangerous and alot scary. Those blades are very, very sharp and they cut skin better than they cut wood. :D

[Barry Beech]

I think it is germane to this discussion to ask this question...on this band saw, are you expected to be able to remove (and put on) the blade by simply using the de-tension lever? I ask because I recall reading (in a magazine review I think) that some of the band saws with de-tension levers do not de-tension enough to remove the blade.

Thanks,

I have the G0555 and the de-tension lever de-tensions the blade enough to change the blade.

See if you can say that fast 3 times. :p

[Vaughn McMillan]

I have the G0555 and the de-tension lever de-tensions the blade enough to change the blade.

See if you can say that fast 3 times. :p
Same results on my Shop Fox 14" w/riser block, as long as I'm changing to a like-sized blade. If I'm changing from a 1/4" blade to the 3/4" one or vice versa, I have to adjust the tension somewhere along the way.

- Vaughn