New HFDC! Now What's the Next Step?

[Art Davis]

I just bought a Harbor Fright 2 hp dust collector on sale for 169 bucks---less a 20 percent off coupon, which brought it down to about 135 bucks. Thought it was a pretty good deal---particularly in light of the discussions I have seen here about the unit. Assembly wasn't bad---but, though I've seen some poor manuals, this one is in the running for the worst.

My question is, now what? I think the consensus here is that the Wynn Environmental filter with clear collector bag is the way to go. Am I right? My question is do I spring another 130 bucks or so for the polyester version or pay the 100 bucks or so for the paper unit? And am I right in thinking that adding a cyclone chip collector isn't worth the cost and effort?

One other question. As I begin to think about installing ducting, I am a bit puzzled as to where to put the ductwork for my table saw. I have a delta contractors saw and will enclose the stand and add a duct. Question is, do you come in over the table or from underneath. And why?

I'd appreciate any other advice you might have about ducting, etc, as I plan the project.

Thanks in advance.

Art

[glenn bradley]

I duct mine from above and below as seen here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=35938

[Jay Davidson]

Am using the same dust collector and also got the Wynn cartridge, paid up for the $130 unit. CFM went up substantially and static pressure decreased - inverse relationship. Tremendous improvement in dust removal from original cloth bags and filter. For the extra $30, Wynn says you get a much better system - I believe them.

Have five machines hooked to it and longest run is about 40 feet. Using a 5" mainline (metal) and 4" flex to the tools - made a lot of difference with the 5" main (originally a 4" flex.)

On your table saw, don't you want to duct both top and bottom? Depends on what type cut you make at the time, but seems best with a 4 o5 inch duct under the table and 2.5 above, with a shut off.

Whatever you do, don't look at Ecogate - pricey, but what a luxury to not have to open and close gates all over the place.

[Art Davis]

I duct mine from above and below as seen here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=35938

Glenn,

I followed your link. The files attached to your posting showed up on my browser as .pdf files, but when I tried to access them, my browser said they were not acrobat files. So---how do I look at them?

Thanks.

Art

[Art Davis]

Am using the same dust collector and also got the Wynn cartridge, paid up for the $130 unit. CFM went up substantially and static pressure decreased - inverse relationship. Tremendous improvement in dust removal from original cloth bags and filter. For the extra $30, Wynn says you get a much better system - I believe them.

Have five machines hooked to it and longest run is about 40 feet. Using a 5" mainline (metal) and 4" flex to the tools - made a lot of difference with the 5" main (originally a 4" flex.)

On your table saw, don't you want to duct both top and bottom? Depends on what type cut you make at the time, but seems best with a 4 o5 inch duct under the table and 2.5 above, with a shut off.

Whatever you do, don't look at Ecogate - pricey, but what a luxury to not have to open and close gates all over the place.

Jay,

Thanks for the info. Based on your comment, I will get the poly filter. What I was concerned with about the TS is how you route the flexible ducting in so that it doesn't interfere with the workpiece (if it is on top of the table). Also, must I get a fancy blade guard if I am going to duct the top of the saw? If not, how do I modify the stock guard to incorporate the ducting?

Art

[Terry Hatfield]

Art,

A drop coming from the ceiling on the far right of the table is the most common place. As long as it's past the end of the fence then it won't interfere with any cutting operations. Some sort of overarm guard is pretty much standard fare for the top of table connection. I suppose you could fashion something different if you really wanted to retain the stock guard but that is probably not the best option. There are many overarm guards on the market but I personally built a guard from plans over at Wood Online here's the link....

http://woodstore.woodmall.com/tabduscolbon.html

Super easy project and I really like it. I made a couple of minor mods from the plan to suit my needs but basically what I have is the same as the plan. A friend did built me a lexan hood for it but I used the stock hood from the plan for a long time and it worked fine. Here's a pic of mine....

<IMG SRC="http://www.fluiddt.com/terry/ts5.JPG">

I split the drop coming from the ceiling and ran one leg to the guard and one to the cabinet on seperate gates so I could isolate the guard for operations such as a dado when the guard is not being used. Mine is a 6" drop splitting to 4" for the guard and 6" continuing to the cabinet. Might need to do 4" to both and then just regulate the flow to each leg with the gates. Not sure if the HF will support a 6" X 4" setup.

<IMG SRC="http://www.fluiddt.com/terry/ts1.JPG">

Here's the connection coming under the outfeed bench and connecting to the cabinet itself. Basiclally you could use the the same type idea to the bottom of your contractor style saw.

<IMG SRC="http://www.fluiddt.com/terry/ts8.JPG">

Here's the front view...

<IMG SRC="http://www.fluiddt.com/terry/ts9.JPG">

Hope that helps,

Terry

[scott spencer]

Hi Art - If you're not up to spending as much on a cannister as you did the DC, Grizzly has some low micron bags for $20 each that work well.

Also, HF now has a cannister with a flapper for cleaning. It's about $170 regular price, but on sale with a 20% off coupon would bring it line with the Wynn filter but with the addition of the flapper.

[Art Davis]

Terry,

Thanks a lot for the link and pix. How hard is it to work lexan? BTW, that's a very nice looking shop you have there, buddy!

Scott,

Thanks for the info on the Grizzly bags and the HF cannister type filter. How does a flapper valve work?

[Terry Hatfield]

Art,

Thanks for the kind words.

Not sure about how hard the lexan is to work with. A friend of mine from..another forum as they say...made it for me. You can purchase just the hood fairly reasonably from some of the guard manufacturers like PSI if that might make things easier.

Good luck with your project!!!

t

[scott spencer]

Terry,

Thanks a lot for the link and pix. How hard is it to work lexan? BTW, that's a very nice looking shop you have there, buddy!

Scott,

Thanks for the info on the Grizzly bags and the HF cannister type filter. How does a flapper valve work?

The flapper is just a series of paddles that contact the inside edge of the cannister and are mounted on a vertical axle that connects to a handle. You rotate the paddles around the filter to knock the dust out of the pleats. I haven't tried the HF unit, but they're all pretty similar, and they seem to work well on others....a good feature IMO.

[Jerry Olexa]

.I went the Wynn cannister and new clear bags route. Also built in a nuetral vane w sheet metal. Very happy w the results.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Here is the link to my collection for the ts:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=16894

[scott spencer]

.I went the Wynn cannister and new clear bags route. Also built in a nuetral vane w sheet metal. Very happy w the results. Hi Jerry - Did the neutral vane make a difference? Any pics to inspire ideas? :)

[Jerry Olexa]

Hi Jerry - Did the neutral vane make a difference? Any pics to inspire ideas? :)

Hi Scott, I can't access my files from here but yes, it was very helpful and there is a gentleman on SMC, Brad Olsen who has a blog explaining this conversion w a nuetral vane.There are pics and i used as my guide. Also Cien has a website w a tutorial on this . HTH. Thanx again for the router tip!!

[Art Davis]

So---can I use plain old schedule 40 pvc for the six inch lines from my dc or do I need something fancier to maintain optimum flow rate/suction?

Art

Later Edit: I got the six inches from other postings on the forum. However, I just read a blurb by Oneida that says that six inches is too large for the home shop and will creat dust accumulation in long runs. They claim that five inches is the "sweet spot" diameterwise. Unfortunately, I think this implies that one has to go for specialized and expensive duct pipe, not true? Also, Oneida claims that metal is safer than pvc because (they claim) pvc can cause static discharge with a consequent fire hazard potential. Any responses on these two issues?

[Art Davis]

Bump! I am really interested in your opinions on these issues.

Art

[Jeremy Gibson]

So---can I use plain old schedule 40 pvc for the six inch lines from my dc or do I need something fancier to maintain optimum flow rate/suction?

Art

Later Edit: I got the six inches from other postings on the forum. However, I just read a blurb by Oneida that says that six inches is too large for the home shop and will creat dust accumulation in long runs. They claim that five inches is the "sweet spot" diameterwise. Unfortunately, I think this implies that one has to go for specialized and expensive duct pipe, not true? Also, Oneida claims that metal is safer than pvc because (they claim) pvc can cause static discharge with a consequent fire hazard potential. Any responses on these two issues?
I used - based on many recommendations - S&D or 2729 6" PVC. I had to call around to a plumbing supplier to find it. It's thinner than SCH 40 and much cheaper.

As for the static danger there are as many sites that explain how it is possible as those that explain how it is not. I've gone with PVC and when I finally get the thing hooked up will be able to conduct my own real-world test. I live in Colorado with low humidity so if there is going to be a shock I expect to get it.

As for another point of view there is a show on Discovery called Mythbusters. They test myths to see if they are confirmed or "busted." There was a myth of a construction worker sand-blasting some PVC to reuse and when he touched it it exploded. Well, they created a low humidity room, blasted PVC with sand to create a charge and used a metal probe to see what amount of electricity was in the shock, if any. They worked very hard to get any shock, and what they did get was only enough to be annoying. I took away from that a sense of comfort that I won't explode.

If a shock happens and is uncomfortable I have seen bare wire wrapped around the pipe and connected to the DC and machine to bleed the static. I also read about using foil tape on the inside and outside of PVC and a small screw through both pieces at the joints to connect it. The tape won't create any surface for dust to collect inside the PVC and should eliminate any static shock.

[glenn bradley]

Art, I apologize. That was my first pic post here at the creek and I didn't realize we all like .jpg files. You've already gotten a lot of pics showing a similar setup. there is a viewable pic of mine here:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36317

Sorry again for the first mis-direction.

[Art Davis]

Glenn,

No sweat. Appreciate your giving me the link.

Jeremy,

I had a hunch that your take on the static charge situation was the correct one, but thought I should check. Maybe someone else will have another opinion, but it seemed to me that such warnings coming from manufacturers of dc equipment might be a bit self-serving. And thanks a lot for the 6 inch pvc info. I will look for this stuff locally.

Art