vector settings help

[Patrick Licata]

Hello all,
I am a new subscriber to this site and have enjoyed reading through all of the posts. Some great information! Thank you all. I am having some trouble vectoring baltic birch. I have an epilog mini 35 watt machine. My settings were based on machine manual for wood. At 100% power, 7 speed, 500 freq. is will cut through coated alder in a single pass beautifully.
However, after 3 passes with these settings, it still did not go through the uncoated baltic birch and it would start to burn. I saw a post earlier that gave some settings roughly 100 pwr, 2.5 sp (mine are whole numbers) and 30 ppi. (not sure how these relate to epilog). Anyway it took 2 passes to get through and the wood began to burn. Anyone have any ideas. The birch is much cheaper and quicker to get than the coated alder. But if I can't cut it??? Also had similar problem with pre-finished cherry plywood.
Thanks for the help
Patrick

[Lee DeRaud]

The laser sometimes has trouble with the glue: it absorbs a lot of the beam's energy. But usually I can cut BB with maybe 20-30% slower speed than the same thickness of oak or walnut.

What thickness of BB are we talking about here?

[Joe Pelonio]

On my Epilog 45 watts I cut 1/8" baltic at 20sp 100pw 5000fr, 1/4" at 8/100/5000.

Try applying transfer tape and misting it with water (both sides) and make sure your air assist is on.

[Mitchell Andrus]

Keep in mind that the laser pulses... pops small holes next to each other. Too many holes at too great a power setting will cause burning.

Mitch

[John Esberg]

I've got to ask, are you using air assist? It makes a big difference with my machine.

V/R,

John

[Dave Jones]

On my 45 watt Epilog I cut some 1/2" baltic ply (9 ply) with 100%P, 2%S, 500 Freq. I think in my tests I poked through it at around 4%S, but 2%S cut solidly. At a higher Feq. I could have raised the speed, but I got enough charring already at 500 Freq.

Thinner stuff of course went a lot faster.

[Dennis Kotlowski]

I have a 25w Epilog and I cut 1/8" baltic birch at 100%P 9%S and 500fr and it cuts clean with no burning or charring. (with air assist on)


Dennis

[Patrick Licata]

Thank you all for your input. However I think I'm cursed, then again I've done a little cursing myself. Sorry I did not mention earlier that I am trying 1/4" with air assist. I have tried your suggestions but to no avail. Tried
100p - 3s - 500f, 3s - 5000f, 1s, 500f (burns it), 2s 500f (almost made it through (could see the impression of the vector slightly on back). Don't know what else to do other than using the more expensive alder which cut like butter!! Any thoughts?? Thanks again ---Patrick

[Tom Buzz Bernard]

One other thing to check is to see if you are using a solid RGB color to cut. For instants if you use black cmyk, it is not a true black to the laser, therefore the laser will reduce it's power output. Just like when you raster the laser sees gradations in color and adjust the power accordingly to give you light and dark images for a picture. A 35 watt should have no problem cutting 1/4" Baltic Birch.

[Mitchell Andrus]

Perhaps you could post your .cdr file so we can give it a try and get some setting back to you. Just might be something as simple as what Tom mentioned, a setting buried in the file itself.

Mitch

[Joe Pelonio]

Thank you all for your input. However I think I'm cursed, then again I've done a little cursing myself. Sorry I did not mention earlier that I am trying 1/4" with air assist. I have tried your suggestions but to no avail. Tried
100p - 3s - 500f, 3s - 5000f, 1s, 500f (burns it), 2s 500f (almost made it through (could see the impression of the vector slightly on back). Don't know what else to do other than using the more expensive alder which cut like butter!! Any thoughts?? Thanks again ---Patrick

You are probably not cursed. There's a big difference in quality, glues etc with plywood. You may have gotten your baltic from a batch that just doesn't cut well. Would be nice if someone else with a laser in your area could try a pices for you. Solid wood is going to cut a lot better. Any chance you could use Basswood??

[Patrick Licata]

Thank you all for your help. I talked to Tom "buzz" on the phone and we discussed a little further. After reviewing, he too thought that it may be a "bad batch" of wood that won't cut. I didn't realize that could happen! Anyway, I sent Tom a few pieces of my wood, and he is going to try them. I guess the best case scenario will be that he too will find a problem with the wood!! I'll let you know how it works out.
Joe, I'm in the sporting goods business, doing trophies and awards, so I'm not up on all the woods. What exactly is basswood and how does it compare price wise etc.? I was going to use the baltic birch as an economical wood to do projects (ornaments, holiday displays, pre-patterned stuff).

[Joe Pelonio]

Basswood is softer than many but not nearly as soft as Balsa. It's very light colored and clear, comes in 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 at most larger craft and hobby stores, I pay $2.99-$3.19 for 4"x24" (retail).

The largest they have is usually 4"x24". It cuts really nicely. I'm looking for a source for larger pieces as I have a customer that requires me to go to 3-4 places to get enough of it.

This online store sells the exact kind that I get locally for less but then there's shipping:

http://www.misterart.com/store/view/003/group_id/1434/Midwest-Basswood-Sheets.htm

Here's info about the wood:
http://www.hardwood.org/species_guide/display_species.asp?species=basswood

[Dave Jones]

Joe, have you tried these guys?

http://www.nationalbalsa.com/product1.htm


I think they are one of the larger importers and suppliers to hobby shops.

[Joe Pelonio]

Joe, have you tried these guys?

http://www.nationalbalsa.com/product1.htm


I think they are one of the larger importers and suppliers to hobby shops.

Thanks, Dave, that's a better price even with shipping, and a much better
variety of sizes. I'll give them a try.

[Jim A. Walters]

I have purchased basswood from http://www.itascawoodproducts.com and was pleased with their quality, service and delivery.

Jim Walters

[Joe Pelonio]

Another good suggestion to try, just a few cents more than the last. Jim, if you're using it don't you agree that it's nice for laser work? I discovered it when making postcards for a Boy Scout Camp, light enough to mail yet strong and hard enough to write on.

[Jim A. Walters]

I have done a thank you award on a basswood plank with the bark on the top and bottom edges. It was one of the first wood items I engraved. It turned out better than I could have imagined. We made round "pogs" for our troop to leave in geocaches we visit. We usually do our Troop name on one side , and on the reverse we put the outing title and the date. Basswood lasers very nice, and cuts even better!

Joe, what thickness did you use for postcards? I might have to try some and mail them to myself from different areas around town to see what they look like after handling. Might have to send one to you, and have you send me a pic of what it looks like when it arrives.

Jim Walters

[Patrick Licata]

Just a quick update. Tom called me back today with some good news. IT'S NOT MY MACHINE! Even on Tom's 50 watt machine, he was not able to cut through my 1/4" baltic birch. It is definitely a problem with the wood. I'm going to contact the company, (which I found on this forum) and see what they have to say. Thanks to all for your help!
Patrick Licata