Help!! Drill press broke

[Lori Kleinberg]

I was drilling holes for a mortise. Just about completed first set and look what happened:eek:
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Also, can anyone help with info on this DP
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One last thing how do I know the speeds?
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Any help would be great.

[Matt Meiser]

Its not broke. The chuck attaches to a taper. I would put the chuch back on and tap it from underneath a couple times with a rubber mallet to seat it. First though, thoroughly clean the chuck and the taper with something like alcohol to remove any dirt or oil.

[Don Baer]

Lori,
Just jam that chuck back onto the spindle adapter and tap it real hard with a mallet. Thats a taper fitting and that how they work. In terms of speed. The chart on the side shows you the speed right now you are on the highest speed. and as you move down on the step pulleys you will move up the chart to the slower speed.

[Frank Fusco]

That chart on the front tells you the speeds. Small drive pulley to largest is slowest. Largest drive pulley to smallest is fastest. And the ones in between are.....uh, in between.

[tod evans]

lori, it ain`t broke, the chuck slipped on the morse taper. clean the inside of the chuck with lacquer thinner or other clean solvent, same with the shaft, and reinstall the chuck. smack it once with a soft faced hammer to seat it. should be fine, but if it pops off again try a dab of spit after cleaning before assembly, it`ll cause the chuck to rust onto the taper and most likely never come off.....02 tod

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Clean it very wel. Clean the bore in the chuck and the taper spindle.

Clean it with a dust free rag and then blow it out with air.
Don't oil it.

[Frankie Hunt]

That chart on the front tells you the speeds. Small drive pulley to largest is slowest. Largest drive pulley to smallest is fastest. And the ones in between are.....uh, in between.
Frank is exactly right about the speeds.

Put another way. The picture of the drill press showing the belt shows it in position 5 (3600 rpm). When the belt is moved down to the bottom of both pullies it will be in postion 1 (540 rpm). Perhaps it would be more intuitive if the chart were to list speed 5 (3600 rpm) on top, going down to speed 1 (540 rpm) on the bottom.

[Bill Antonacchio]

I like Tod's ingenious way to keep the chuck from falling off again! :D

Regards,
Bill

[Frank Chaffee]

Lori,
Just one more thing to add regarding the mallet smack reinstall; first open the jaws of the chuck to their widest so the jaws retract within the chuck body. That way the adjusting threads for the bit clamping parts will not be damaged.

Frank

[Randy Meijer]

Another thing that might help if you have an ongoing problem with the chuck coming off. Get it good and warm with a hair dryer and then slip it on the taper with a rap from a piece of 2x4. When the chuck cools down, it will shrink a few ten thousandths and be nice and tight on the taper. Be sure to use gloves so you don't burn yourself while attaching the chuck.

Another possibility would be super glue or Lock Tite. Both soften up with the application of heat so the bond would not be permanent if you needed to remove the chuck.

[David Rose]

Or another, sometimes recommended way, is to open the chuck like Frank said. Then using the quill, press it down firmly onto a board. My pressed on chucks have all stayed on that way without the rusty spit. :eek:

David


Lori,
Just one more thing to add regarding the mallet smack reinstall; first open the jaws of the chuck to their widest so the jaws retract within the chuck body. That way the adjusting threads for the bit clamping parts will not be damaged.

Frank

[Allen Bookout]

if it pops off again try a dab of spit after cleaning before assembly, it`ll cause the chuck to rust onto the taper and most likely never come off.....02 tod

I'll tell you------those guys from the Ozarks know everything.

Allen

[Frank Fusco]

Another thing that might help if you have an ongoing problem with the chuck coming off. Get it good and warm with a hair dryer and then slip it on the taper with a rap from a piece of 2x4. When the chuck cools down, it will shrink a few ten thousandths and be nice and tight on the taper. Be sure to use gloves so you don't burn yourself while attaching the chuck.

Another possibility would be super glue or Lock Tite. Both soften up with the application of heat so the bond would not be permanent if you needed to remove the chuck.

Gotta (respectfully) heartily disagree with the Loctite or super glue idea. They will alter the fit enough so that the drill press will never again make a round hole.

[Frank Fusco]

I'll tell you------those guys from the Ozarks know everything.

Allen

Better believe it, bro. :D

[David Rose]

Well, we do know how ta spit! ...with or without a chew...

David


I'll tell you------those guys from the Ozarks know everything.

Allen

[tod evans]

I'll tell you------those guys from the Ozarks know everything.

Allen

allen, i learned how to make `em stay put several years ago when running a forstner bit into an angled apron board, side loading the ol` delta i had would loosen the chuck every time no matter how clean it was and how hard i pressed it on,a dab of spit and it was stuck....02 tod

[David Rose]

DAHHHKT...


Gotta (respectfully) heartily disagree with the Loctite or super glue idea. They will alter the fit enough so that the drill press will never again make a round hole.

[Randy Meijer]

Gotta (respectfully) heartily disagree with the Loctite or super glue idea. They will alter the fit enough so that the drill press will never again make a round hole.

I have read that commercial metal shops use this "trick" to keep tools in their milling machines. Figured the idea might be transferable to drill press chucks......maybe not? Anyone ever tried it?

[David Rose]

Randy, I run an old Bridgeport mill almost daily. The way the collet is installed is totally different. It uses a drawbar from the spindle top that tightens the fingers on the collet on the bottom. There is really nothing to "keep in or on". The cutting tools must come out of the collet very easily when it is loosened or there would be problems.

Maybe there was some other part of the mill that they held in that way. I haven't found it though. I think you may have been the victim of "cyber space methods". They abound.

David, who cannot have "a thou or two" runout on a mill tool


I have read that commercial metal shops use this "trick" to keep tools in their milling machines. Figured the idea might be transferable to drill press chucks......maybe not? Anyone ever tried it?

[Frank Chaffee]

Well, we do know how ta spit! ...with or without a chew...
David

Gotta (respectfully) heartily disagree with the Loctite or super glue idea. They will alter the fit enough so that the drill press will never again make a round hole.
Lori,
Trust the dry heat of the Sonoran Desert for an accurate seating of your Morse Taper drill chuck, and eschew the advice of the SoEasterner’s salivitic application method. Them dude’s spittle is waay more viscous, and irregularly so than the compounds they suggest you not use.

Frank

P.S. David, you are a lucky man to run an old Bridgeport daily, and I look forward to doing that again myself.

[David Rose]

Well, Frank... notice the "almost" part. I enjoy machine work (mill and lathe) more than hand fitting with files and hones, though I do that more.

So... Arkiesaw is "SoEasterner"? Never thought about "where" we were in that respect. I thought we were just "in them thar hills". Did we move? Or ere we both right?

I do like the "salavitic" word. Well, I like it, but it does sound sort of naughty. Maybe that is why I like it... But I do resemble the fact that you state our spit is something more horrible (is that what you said?) than Stupor Glue.

You know, after reviewing your post and what I said, I'm not sure but what you said so much that you may have broken the rules of TOS. That was an awful lot of stuff said about "us Ozark folks". :D Notice that our numbers are growing... <intimidation intended> :D

David


Lori,
Trust the dry heat of the Sonoran Desert for an accurate seating of your Morse Taper drill chuck, and eschew the advice of the SoEasterner’s salivitic application method. Them dude’s spittle is waay more viscous, and irregularly so than the compounds they suggest you not use.

Frank

P.S. David, you are a lucky man to run an old Bridgeport daily, and I look forward to doing that again myself.

[Frank Chaffee]

Well, Frank... notice the "almost" part. I enjoy machine work (mill and lathe) more than hand fitting with files and hones, though I do that more.

So... Arkiesaw is "SoEasterner"? Never thought about "where" we were in that respect. I thought we were just "in them thar hills". Did we move? Or ere we both right?

I do like the "salavitic" word. Well, I like it, but it does sound sort of naughty. Maybe that is why I like it... But I do resemble the fact that you state our spit is something more horrible (is that what you said?) than Stupor Glue.

You know, after reviewing your post and what I said, I'm not sure but what you said so much that you may have broken the rules of TOS. That was an awful lot of stuff said about "us Ozark folks". :D Notice that our numbers are growing... <intimidation intended> :D

David
David,
Please rest assured that in no way did my equating so named SouthEasterner’s spittle with it’s highly viscous (and containing lumps of unknown particles in suspension, rather than in solution), quality was a slight against ya’all.

Frank

[Wes Bischel]

Gotta (respectfully) heartily disagree with the Loctite or super glue idea. They will alter the fit enough so that the drill press will never again make a round hole.

I used Loctite on my DP and did not have any issues with runout - lucky maybe? I used just a touch, and haven't had a problem with the chuck coming off or drilling oversized holes.

Lori, good luck on the re-assembly either way you go.

Wes

[David Rose]

OK... I think I can make an apology out of that. Tryin' real hard, except... it's "yall" not "ya'all. :eek: Why do fereigners always try to add to our writin's? :confused:

David


David,
Please rest assured that in no way did my equating so named SouthEasterner’s spittle with it’s highly viscous (and containing lumps of unknown particles in suspension, rather than in solution), quality was a slight against ya’all.

Frank

[Lori Kleinberg]

Thank you all so much for the info. I know nothing about drill presses. This one was passed down from my FIL. He has no paperwork on it. Have tried searching the internet, but no luck.
After I posted, my internet went down and just now started working again. Anyway, I had wiped out the chuck and tried to bang it back on with a rubber mallet, but it still kept coming off. Then my husband came home from work and shoved it right back on, :rolleyes: so far so good.
Thanks again to everyone.

[Frank Fusco]

I used Loctite on my DP and did not have any issues with runout - lucky maybe? I used just a touch, and haven't had a problem with the chuck coming off or drilling oversized holes.

Lori, good luck on the re-assembly either way you go.

Wes

I had a problem with my chuck falling off the MT. Tried Loctite. Got oval holes. Couldn't part MT from chuck even with heat and torture. It is now relegated to buffing on lathe. Had to buy new MT and new chuck. It threw tolerances off enough to make drill press worthless. And I'm not a machinist type that notices finite thingys.

[David Rose]

Loctite is designed to be gap filling. Different numbers/strengths fill different voids. It can set up quickly once the ideal gap is reached. So part of the connection could hit that ideal and part of it be pretty "off" as you pressed it on. I don't know a lot about the stuff, but I use it often.

David



I had a problem with my chuck falling off the MT. Tried Loctite. Got oval holes. Couldn't part MT from chuck even with heat and torture. It is now relegated to buffing on lathe. Had to buy new MT and new chuck. It threw tolerances off enough to make drill press worthless. And I'm not a machinist type that notices finite thingys.

[Wes Bischel]

I guess I did luck out - or had a really poorly machined MT with a good gap to fill!:D

Wes

[David Rose]

Could be you just got it on nice and straight. That's good! :)

David


I guess I did luck out - or had a really poorly machined MT with a good gap to fill!:D

Wes

[harry strasil]

If its an import drill, the chucks are junk to start with, invest in a good quality jacobs chuck and tapered shank if its removable, end of problems.