Tractor Seat for Shaving Horse seat?

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

The style of shaving horse I'm making has an added seat. Well, it's hard to make one without a shaving horse (classic bootstrap problem), and I'm also starting to run behind on the project because it's been hot and I've been feeling wilty.

So I was considering putting a tractor seat on so I could a) have a seat for my class next month; b) not worry about it; c) have something reasonably comfy for a week-long class. Comfort will be important.

Except, not being a very rural person or having ever owned a tractor seat (or, for that matter, a tractor), I don't really know how large the bolt holes would be.

I was considering the relatively bog-standard John Deere reproduction cast iron tractor seat, which seems to have one square hole (of unknown size). Anyone know anything about these? Google sure hasn't helped much.

http://i20.ebayimg.com/01/i/07/99/53/c0_1_b.JPG

If I felt I had time, I'd just get some pine to work on, but I lack a few tools for scooping out a seat (don't have a scorp or travisher or such).

If this isn't a good idea, anyone have any better suggestions (that don't involve time travel)?

[Alan DuBoff]

Deirdre,

That's an awesome looking seat! It reminds me of the Barnes Velocipede (http://www.americanartifacts.com/smma/barnes/b2.htm) seat, in a way, although not as contoured.

I think it's a great idea, just that it must be pretty heavy as it looks like it's cast, but presumably it won't need to be moved too much.

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

It does look like it'd be reasonably comfortable, though I'd rather have a wider seat. But for something that is already available, it seems like an easy choice.

Your point about it being heavy has me rethinking the idea, though. After all, I have to take it to Oregon with me and drag it into the shop. We're already talking of something made of 8/4 hickory and teak (given the day's adventures with hickory, I now wish I'd gone with all teak to be honest).

Day's adventures in hickory: I was getting immense tearout, regardless of grain direction, with my LN scrub plane (but only in Hickory: cherry, maple, poplar, and teak were fine). Every thing I do seems to splinter something. I'm really Not Liking this wood.

[Alan DuBoff]

I'm really Not Liking this wood.I haven't minded working with it, and find it to chop well with chisels, cut well with sharp saws, and seems to plane ok. I think it might depend on the piece of wood, but hickory is definitely hardwood. :)

It will take a toll on edge tools.

So many things could be a problem, such as the direction you're planing, what type of plane you're using, etc...and yes, I realize you aren't having the same problems with the other woods, just pointing out that something is not right for the hickory or you wouldn't be having such a problem. It could be something so simple as the piece of wood you have.

When you look at the edge of the board, can you see which way the grain is lying? If you try to cut up, i.e., the directly against the way the grain is lying, you could experience difficulties, possible tearout and such. I don't think you said what the problem was, maybe I missed it. EDIT: yes you did, I missed it!

[harry strasil]

Implement seats used one carriage bolt to hold them to a large flat spring Dierdre, and believe me if its no wide enough for ones behind they are definetely not something you would want to set in for very long. I have two of the pressed metal ones that my father and uncle made into seats for setting at the big floor mounted pedastel Grinder, and luckily the pressed metal ones I have altered to fit my posterier. If they fit reasonable well they are quite comfortable.

[Frank Fusco]

Harry, fit or not, you don't want to sit in them very long anyway. A'course, some folks got more padding back there than others. ;) But a steel seat can be a tough ride. That's why padded covers are such a popular item in tractor supply stores. First thing I did when I got my Massey-Harris 44D was put padding and a new shock absorber on the seat. Shaving horses don't buck much, so shouldn't be too bad.

[harry strasil]

The one shown does look rather uncomfortable with the raised features.

[Ray Moser]

Actually they were not used as tractor seats but rather were on horse drawn equipment. Such things a mowers, cultivators, hay rakes, etc. As a kid on a farm in the 1940's we had a lot of equipment that Dad had converted from horse drawn to tractor drawn (by replacing the long tongue needed for horses with a short one suitable to hook to a tractor hitch) The seats were still on the equipment but were not longer needed for the orginal purpose. Considering what antique seats of the type go for the days, I wish I had them all.

[Kurt Loup]

If you want to go plastic and light, I installed this Wen no nah tractor style canoe seat on my strip built canoe. The price was around $25. Wen no nah also makes a gel filled cover that fits over the seat. I have no problem fishing for hours.

Kurt

http://www.loup-garou.net/May27seatview.jpg

[Pam Niedermayer]

I've got an old covered and slightly padded tractor "style" seat that I used on a BMW R60/5 for a year long trip. I've long thought about using it for my shave horse whenever I get around to building one. Could sit for hours and hours with comfort and it didn't allow me to slide around.

I can't find the manufacturer right now, I bought it 30 years ago, but there's a similar one for Triumphs (search for motorcycle tractor seat) in an ebay store.

Pam

[Daniel Fisher]

Deirdre,
The first course I took at Marc Adams School several was a Windsor chair course. We used Brian Boggs-designed and built shaving horses. After sitting on those things for 3 days, most of us were not interested in sitting down on anything for a couple of days. The seats did have some shape to them, but they were still very uncomfortable to those of us who were not accustomed to them.

During Day 1, they bought cushions for all of us. During Day 2, they bought a 2d cushion for all of us. They weren't enough.

I would agree with the other who think your original suggestion may not work. Any hard seat, even a shaped one, may be problematic. I would opt for something padded. If you plan on using the horse a lot, you may be able to acclimate yourself to a hard seat by slowly working up on it. After all, most of the chairmakers I've seen at work don't use a cushion.

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

Recognize that I am going to make a better seat, I just simply don't have a whole lot of time in which to do it -- I need to survive a week. I may go for the gel-filled style, though, that sounds like a really excellent idea.

I'm glad for your feedback, though. Interestingly, Boggs started using that style of horse after he had back problems and found the old style uncomfortable.

[Deirdre Saoirse Moen]

Daniel, I'm really glad you posted this -- based on your comments and Alan's point about a cast iron seat being heavy (and having to travel with mine), I've decided to take a different tack.

I've needed to get a bolster for yoga for a while. The back part of the horse is 24" and the yoga bolsters are a convenient 23". With a couple of yoga straps to tie it in place, I should be all set. It may not be the most comfy seat, but I *know* I can sit on a bolster for hours. Been there done that.

[Ed Breen]

My only comment on the comfort of the seat is that when I spent hours on my old Ford with the spring seat I spent a lot of time standing upright.
Ed