Another DC electrical/remote question

[Jim O'Dell]

I had decided to use 3 4-way switches to turn my cyclone on and off. If I wire it that way, can I also put a remote between the switches and the contactor? Would this allow the 4-way switches to be system emergency cut off switches and the remote be what is used normally? Wouldn't this also allow the remote to be powered down so that it couldn't turn the system on from someone elses remote if one of the 4-way switches is the off position? Thanks for any insight you can give. In my mind, this should work, but I've found too many times that once out of my mind in the real world, then reality kicks in and I blow myself up! :eek: Jim.

[Jim O'Dell]

Well, while working on some preliminary wiring connections, I thought of something else. Can you use a switch (single, 3-way, or 4-way) to control a GFCI outlet? The easiest wire to tap on to was one going to the first receptacle in the run, and it has a GFCI on it. I moved it to keep it as the first in the run so that everything after that is covered...OOPS:o :o :o :o doing that would control every outlet and light past there. Hmmmm....Guess I need a double box and 2 outlets, and only switch the non GFCI. Man this is getting complicated. Oh well, is 12 outlets at my work bench overkill? Guess I could plug in a red night light to the 2nd switched outlet to show when it is powered up.
I'm going to go do something easy now, like rehang some blinds. Jim.

[Rob Russell]

Jim,

If you're doing regular switches around your shop, I'd just put those in to control the DC and forget the remote. if you're concerned about being able to start/stop the DC from more locations, just add more 4-way switches in the middle of the circuit.

You can definitely switch GFCI outlets. I splitwired our outside receptacles so they are fed by a pair of GFCI's. One outlet is switched, the other is unswitched.

Rob

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks, Rob. I couldn't imagine you couldn't, but wanted some "back up"! ;-)) Jim.

[Jim Becker]

Jim...I agree....bag the remote. I did that awhile ago when I put in the contactor and I only have ONE switch, centrally located in the shop. To date, it hasn't been a hassle at all.

[Jim O'Dell]

That's good to hear, Jim. I had decided on using switches originally, and in fact purchased a contactor with 110 volt trigger about 4 weeks ago. Using the remote would be more for emergencies. In case the impeller were to explode, I wouldn't want to have to find a switch to hit on my way out!! The way I've set it up, if I decide to do the remote later, it will be an easy unplug, plug, plug, mount transmitter situation. Thanks again guys! Jim.

[Rob Russell]

Thanks, Rob. I couldn't imagine you couldn't, but wanted some "back up"! ;-)) Jim.

Jim,

I assume that you're referring to switching GFCI-protected boxes. All a GFCI does is trip when it sends an imbalance between the current flowing in on the hot conductor vs what's flowing back out on the neutral conductor. If the current is the same, it means that there is a current leak in the curcuit. The GFI trips to prevent "you" from being that current leak.

If you do what you suggested with your switching and put a whole series of switches in front of the remote control box, I just think that would lead to hassles in how you use the mess. If you turn the DC on with the remote and off with one of the switches, you'd need to turn one of the switches back on again to be able to turn the DC on with the remote.

This thing with the DC switching is a little bit like what Frank and I went through with the wiring for his DC. The simplest way to control the DC is to put a 120v coil contactor rated for the motor load right next to the DC. Then, use your 3-way and 4-way switches to control the coil circuit on the contactor. That way you're just using regular line voltage to control the contactor but the switches don't need to be horsepower rated. If you want to use the switches to actually turn the motor on and off, the switches need to be rated for the horse power of the motor.

Rob

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks again, Rob. You probably saw, in my note to Jim B., after you finished posting that I do indeed have the 110 trigger contactor. I'll go with 2 3-way and 1 4-way switch to have 3 points to shut it off. Jim.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If your panel is in your shop, why not put a sensor in the panel box to turn on DC? It is a REAL JOY not having to even think about turning on DC. Saw or other tool comes on, DC does same. Saw cuts off, DC runs for ten seconds and then cuts off. This allows for the piping to be cleared. Boy, I sure don't miss keeping up with a remote!

[Jim O'Dell]

That's an interesting thought, Ken. But for the motor I have on my cyclone, that could be a lot of stops and starts for it, and it's not recommended by the manufacturer. I'd rather do the manual control so I can leave it on when I'm doing some adjustments on a machine, the get back to working, and save the wear and tear on the motor. But I will have to see if there is something else that may work for that, like my incandescent spot lights for certain tools, so they are only on when the blade is turning for safety. I'd like a little more info on this if you can. What is the device, and what type of price, how does it hook in. THANKS! Jim.

[Al Willits]

Just wondering what your thoughts on using a remote to cycle the DC?

Reading this post got me to start wondering, if maybe my JDS wouldn't be easier to run with one, maybe vecro a couple remotes on either end of the work area?

Al

[Jim O'Dell]

Al, I had thought to have the remote for safety purpose in case the impeller came apart on my unit. Being a plastic blower cage instead of a metal one. But I think I will just go with 2 or 3 switches. The way I have it wired up, it would be very easy to add the remote. Jim

[Al Willits]

Just looked at Woodcraft and they have a remote for about 50 or 60 bucks and extra remotes for about $12, just seems that might be the easiest way to do all this, 3 or 4 remotes attached to the various tools might be easier/cheaper?

I'm assuming the remote units work ok...?

Al

[Art Mulder]

Just looked at Woodcraft and they have a remote for about 50 or 60 bucks and extra remotes for about $12, just seems that might be the easiest way to do all this, 3 or 4 remotes attached to the various tools might be easier/cheaper?

I'm assuming the remote units work ok...?

Al

Al, I've read mixed reviews about those wireless remotes. People have reported them failing. I also just didn't want to deal with another remote control to try and keep track of.

I also bought a "Long Ranger" from Woodcraft (the 220v model) but I opted to get the one which is controlled by wired switches. So far in my small shop I have just wired up one manual switch, but I did also buy some of the 4" blast gates with the integrated switch, and I'm considering whether to use them or not.

[Al Willits]

Thanks Art, I had given thought to the remotes but hadn't heard much on their reliability.

So many questions, so many anwsers...:)

Al

[Chris Padilla]

Well, I wired up a "lamp control" box (uses a remote to turn on a lamp but it simply activates my 120 V coil on my DC contactor) and it went South pretty fast for some reason and my DC doesn't even have the ductwork up yet so that was pretty disappointing. I did buy another one but haven't hooked it up yet.

I guess we'll see how it goes when I really start using the DC...I may be wiring in some switches to control the contactor....

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I have a 220 remote for over a year and so far no problems. The remote is clipped to my apron so it's always handy. Besides 4 way switches are a royal pain to wire.

My .02

Greg

[Art Mulder]

Besides 4 way switches are a royal pain to wire.


Greg, the Long Ranger at Woodcraft (and elsewhere, no doubt) uses low-voltage wiring. Just wire the switches in parallel.

[lou sansone]

I use a remote for my 3 phase DC and it works great. I have not had any problems with it and have been using it for several months. just stayes in the pocket of my apron all the time.
lou