Making templates -- HELP!

[Paul Prescott]

I plan on building several (read: 6) chairs. To get them all the same I was thinking of making templates for each piece, but I've never done that. I have full-scale drawings that can be transferred to 1/4 " MDF, then I planned to cut the templates on the bandsaw, about 1/8" or so outside the lines. And that's where I'm stuck.

Despite everything I've read here, in books, etc., I can't figure out how to then "file down" the oversized templates to the lines, accurately. Router sure wouldn't do it, and I'm pretty bad at making accurate cuts with either a BS or a saber saw (that's why I'm not a surgeon!)

I have: a Ridgid spindle sander, a PC 1/4" sheet sander, a Ridgid 5" oscillating sander.

What do you do? What would you suggest?

[Doug Shepard]

The spindle sander will probably be the most useful of the bunch. Use the biggest diam sleeve that will fit into the inside curves and take long smooth passes to avoid putting local divots in the template lines. For outside curves a disc sander would be my first choice but not on your list. The spindle sander would work OK for that too though. Don't rule out the router though. If there are sections with curves with a fixed radius you can rig up a home made trammel arm and some stop blocks to cut those sections of the template and probably get a smoother curve than anything you can do by hand on the spindle sander.

[Paul Prescott]

... If there are sections with curves with a fixed radius you can rig up a home made trammel arm and some stop blocks to cut those sections of the template and probably get a smoother curve than anything you can do by hand on the spindle sander.

OK, you lost me there.

[Matt Meiser]

I've used a rasp (I got mine at Lowes--by the files.) and a fairly long thin strip of wood with handles glued on one side and sandpaper on the other side. It didn't take more than a few minutes to shape each template after bandsawing them to rough size. I tried to just leave the line at the bandsaw, maybe a 1/16th or so oversize. I learned this technique from watching Woodworks.

[Doug Shepard]

OK, you lost me there.

The best generic example I can think of is a figure-eight where the ends are round enough to be true circles (with fixed radii). Something like a French curve wont work with with this - at least not very easily. If you mount the router on a trammel arm pinned in the center of the circle on one end, you can do a large portion of each end before the figure becomes non-circular in the middle. If you attach some stop blocks (or even just clamps) to stop the router from swinging into the non-circular areas you can get very exact curves with no spindle sander divots along the edges - at least on the sections you're able to use the router on. The trammel arm doesn't have to be anything fancy. My first one was made from 1/4" tempered hardboard with just the one hole for the pivot pin for the diam. I needed and the holes to mount the router to it.

[Roger Barga]

I tend to use MDF for my templates and follow the same procedure you described - about 1/8" over. To clean up the template I either i) a rasp for small details, a hand plane and sanding block for straigh pieces, and iii) a compass plane for curved templates.

I tend to incorporate curves in my furniture a lot, and found the drum sander would leave "divots" in my templates - sometimes I didn't notice the divots until after I'd completed the furniture piece :-(. Once I figured out how to use a compass plane this problem went away.

roger

[Jim Becker]

I use my OSS to refine templates "to the line" when any curves are involved. It takes a light touch and always keeping the material moving so you don't gouge. With a little practice, you should be able to do it fine. Then, you only need to use the rasps and other similar tools for areas you can't get to with the sander.

[Tony Falotico]

I've used a rasp (I got mine at Lowes--by the files.) and a fairly long thin strip of wood with handles glued on one side and sandpaper on the other side. It didn't take more than a few minutes to shape each template after bandsawing them to rough size. I tried to just leave the line at the bandsaw, maybe a 1/16th or so oversize. I learned this technique from watching Woodworks.

I'm with Matt on this one, cut as close as you accurately can on the BS, then use a thin strip of wood, blocks, files, rasps or whatever you have and feel comfortable with and hand sand her down to shape. Remember, the template doesn't have to be perfectly exact to original design, as long as it is pleasing and smooth. Many times with a slight change in radius and/or shape my templates come out looking better than the original computer design. Take your time, make sure the template is smooth without any bumps or dimples, they will show through on the final piece.

I find making templates fun and very rewarding, take your time and enjoy....

[Mike Cutler]

Paul.

An 1/8" over still leaves alot of material to do by hand. I would try to get closer if you can. Then sand down with the spindle sander, palm sander, file's, etc. Mark your lines with a Sharpie Fine tip marker so that it stands out. MDF mills very nicely.

I would think about MDF that was thicker than 1/4" to give you a little more edge for the router bearings to ride on. 1/2" Handi board, or MDF makes a nice template

Most chairs are a series of straight lines. you should be able to use a router and a straight edge on your template to get all of the straight lines, then hand dress all of the non straight lines.

Don't sweat it if it takes a long time to make your templates. It took me almost two weeks to make the templates for a library shelf project. You'll spend more time working on the template than the actual material it seems.

Put a lot of effort into the template. The better the template, the better the piece. MDF sands a heck of a lot easier than actual wood.;)

I like to apply blue painters tape to the edge of the template. The router bearings can leave a "wear" spot along the edge if MDF, because it's soft. The painters tape helps to protect the edge of the template.

[Paul Prescott]

Great advice all, Thanks!