Tear-out Issues - UPDATED - Finished Product

[Christopher K. Hartley]

I'm having some issues with tear-out on a piece of spalted oak. My tools are sharp and even 80 grit sandpaper causes the problem. Can the wood be hardened somehow to help overcome this issue. I did a search on the creek but couldn't find much. I know I've heard the issue discussed. but I don't know where to look.:(

[Curt Fuller]

At my local Home Depot you can get Minwax wood hardener, usually near the floor in the section with all the other minwax stains, etc. Or a lot of thin CA, but it gets pricey and burns the hairs out of your nose.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

At my local Home Depot you can get Minwax wood hardener, usually near the floor in the section with all the other minwax stains, etc. Or a lot of thin CA, but it gets pricey and burns the hairs out of your nose. Ernie had told me about the Minwax hardner as well. I just wasn't sure it would work in this application. Thanks.:)

[Bernie Weishapl]

Chris I tried the epoxy cocktail with pretty good success. Mix up 5 minute epoxy, then mix in DNA till it is like milk. Paint it on and let it dry 24 hrs. I did this on two bowls one of which was willow which I did not like turning. It turned out pretty nice though. Could be it does the same thing as the Minwax Wood Hardener. I may have to try some of that. Just a thought.

[Vaughn McMillan]

I've used the Minwax wood hardener for other applications (hardening punky exterior trim on a house) and it seems to penetrate deeper than the epoxy cocktails I've used. Seems like it'd be a good candidate for lessening the tearout problem.

- Vaughn

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Thanks guys, I'm on it.:)

[Blake McCully]

Chris,
I've had that same problem, then I remembered Bill G's video. He does a shear scrape with his bowl gouge that really helps to remove tearout. Also, I have found that cutting in the opposite direction of the tearout helps a good bit as well.

Just my two cents.

[Stu Ablett in Tokyo Japan]

Chris,
I've had that same problem, then I remembered Bill G's video. He does a shear scrape with his bowl gouge that really helps to remove tearout. Also, I have found that cutting in the opposite direction of the tearout helps a good bit as well.

Just my two cents.

The "Nuclear Option"..... :eek:

[Jim Becker]

Sometimes...you need to "fire" the wood and start with a new piece. (Kinda like some customers....) If anything you try doesn't solve the issue...and since you indicate even sandpaper causes tear-out...it's time to move on, IMHO. The spalting may have progressed too far.

[Ernie Nyvall]

Chris, I'm not quite understanding something. You got tear-out from the tool. Did you then sand through the tear-out from the tool and are now getting tear-out from the sandpaper or is the tear-out from the tool not sanding completely out? Sometimes the tear-out from a tool can damage the wood fibers so deep that it won't sand out. I'm not sure, but this may be what's called bruising where the end grain fibers sort of separate from each other deep into the wood. If the walls are still thick enough you may have to go back at it with the tool again. I would suggest putting some hardener on that area before you do that though. Let the hardener dry longer than it says though... I think 24 hrs will do it. I've had... oh, I mean I've SEEN the damage go 3/8" deep.:rolleyes: In that case, if the wood is not real special, I do what Jim suggests.

Ernie

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Chris, I'm not quite understanding something. You got tear-out from the tool. Did you then sand through the tear-out from the tool and are now getting tear-out from the sandpaper or is the tear-out from the tool not sanding completely out? Sometimes the tear-out from a tool can damage the wood fibers so deep that it won't sand out. I'm not sure, but this may be what's called bruising where the end grain fibers sort of separate from each other deep into the wood. If the walls are still thick enough you may have to go back at it with the tool again. I would suggest putting some hardener on that area before you do that though. Let the hardener dry longer than it says though... I think 24 hrs will do it. I've had... oh, I mean I've SEEN the damage go 3/8" deep.:rolleyes: In that case, if the wood is not real special, I do what Jim suggests.

Ernie It came on the initial turn and then new tearout came where none was previously from the sanding. I know it sounds nuts but that is what happened. I did use the Minwax hardner tonight so tomorrow I will re-tool it and see if there is a difference. I have not hollowed it yet so I still have alot to work with. It is a large bowl about the size of the last big one I posted but it is an NE.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Sometimes...you need to "fire" the wood and start with a new piece. (Kinda like some customers....) If anything you try doesn't solve the issue...and since you indicate even sandpaper causes tear-out...it's time to move on, IMHO. The spalting may have progressed too far. I can't bring myself to throw in the towel as yet. The tearout is on both sides where endgrain is but the other two sides are beautiful. I will however heed your advice and remember the song of Turning: Kenny Rogers..."The Gambler":eek:

[Bernie Weishapl]

Hey Chris like Stu said. Have you tried Bill Grumbine's nuclear weapon turning on it? It does work.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Ok. here's the update: Went ahead and Used the Minwax Hardner and left it on about 24 hrs. as was recommended. Wow! What a difference. I was able to tool the tear-out away with no problems at all. Then I began hollowing and again on the inside I had the tear-out just like before so I left the sides thick and put the hardner on the inside this evening. I also had two cracks develop durring dinner so I CA'd them and now we wait for morning. Here are some pics as she stands now. I may lose my title of "Oak Man" but I won't quit yet!:mad:

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Well here is the best I was able to do. Had issues big time with the inside and so you will still see some tearout. It was pretty Punky in there. 9" X 6 1/4" finished with BLO then Deft 3 coats steel wooled in between and waxed. Anyway let me know what you think and thanks for all the advice and help.:)

[Henry C. Gernhardt, III]

Nice looking work, Christopher. I'm sorry the tearout was still an issue, but it looks like you got past it quite well.

[Corey Hallagan]

It turned out great Chris! Definitely the king of oak!

Corey

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Christopher..........I think you did an awesome job with a very difficult piece of wood! A Beauty!

[Ernie Nyvall]

Another nice one Chris.

Ernie

[Barry Stratton]

Oak Man saves one! Great job Christopher.

[Glenn Hodges]

I was following your story and thinking you must have a heavlly spalted piece of wood especially when you said you had tear out when sanding. I am so glad the minwax hardner worked for you. I have used it in the past with the same results. I find it expensive but worth the money on a piece I deem worth saving like the one you posted, thanks for sharring your story and pictures with us.

[Christopher K. Hartley]

Thanks Guys, you make doing this stuff even more fun than it already is.:)